VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics


Go Back   VAF Forums > Model Specific > RV-12/RV-12iS
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Today's Posts

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #21  
Old 09-25-2013, 11:20 PM
redrv6 redrv6 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 66
Default

Thanks for that, Dean. Looks like a very neat solution. I'm still struggling with one switch - the other works as advertised after a lot of fiddling.
__________________
Shirley
120534
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 05-05-2015, 09:04 PM
Gandalf Gandalf is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Medford, OR
Posts: 287
Default

dinowal... Thanks for confirming my suspicions. My reed switch only activates when the steel sleeve is at the bottom of the reed switch, not centered on the reed switch as per the instructions. So I suspect that one can either remove some of the steel sleeve or mount the reed switch as high as possible under the armrest to achieve this relative positioning. The stock mounting clamp seems to mount the reed switch too low to trigger the reed switch.

As an experiment I removed the rubber sleeve from the upper portion of the mounting clamp. I trimmed a portion of the removed rubber sleeve and placed this trimmed piece of rubber under the remaining rubber sleeve on the bottom of the mounting clamp. This maintained the excellent mechanical grip of the mounting clamp on the reed switch and placed the reed switch higher, close to the bottom of the arm rest. If I exercise the magnetic plunger down and up one full cycle, this will trigger the reed switch.

Jeff

Edit: On the left side, I had to remove the full 1/8 inch of steel tubing as allowed in the plans to get the reed switch to trigger, even with the reed switch mounted as close to the underside of the arm rest as possible using the included hardware. On the right side I removed 1/32 of an inch of steel tubing. Getting the tiny snap bushings in place and passing the wires through the snap bushings was not fun.

Last edited by Gandalf : 05-06-2015 at 10:01 PM. Reason: Additional info
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 05-06-2015, 06:58 AM
sabswbc sabswbc is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Granbury, Tx
Posts: 78
Default Switch

I had one that was very difficult. I found a small magnet and placed it on top of the tube. This confirmed the switch worked. I decided to leave it in place since it would not fit through the hole if the pin was removed
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 06-21-2015, 08:52 PM
waterboy2110 waterboy2110 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 247
Default

Replying to the most recent thread. Put my spar pin switches in today. Followed along with the directions (the magnets were glued in a week or so ago) and no joy. Came in - read these threads and saw that others were having trouble. Went back out and over thought the problem and decided to just follow the instructions and took 2 to 3 32nd of the pin arms. Everything worked perfectly. For anyone having problems I would recommend following the instructions taking a 32nd off at a time until it works.
__________________
http://jimsrv.blogspot.com
PP - ASEL
Instrument Rating
A&P/IA Rotax iRMT 9 Series Maintenance
EAA Technical Counselor
RV12 Flying.

Last edited by waterboy2110 : 06-21-2015 at 09:32 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply



Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:13 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.