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08-30-2013, 07:03 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,587
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Attach Tube to Static Port - How?
I put my static ports in the wrong place when I built my airplane. Now I am installing new ones in the correct location per DWG 28.
The inside diameter of my vinyl tubing is, according to the package, .170". The tubing fits over the Van's static port rivet, squished end, but loosely. The rivet was 0.124" before installation but I don't know how big the inside end is now.
On my original ports, I used a smaller diameter tube and then inserted that tube into the larger tube, which fit tightly. It has worked OK for 200+ hours over several years.
The location in the tail cone is very hard for me to work with, now that the airplane is complete. So, I'm having trouble getting the narrower tube to fit over the new rivet and would prefer to use the larger tube.
Can I just use a small plastic "zip-tie" and RTV it into place to prevent it from falling off? Or is there a better way? What did you do?
Thanks!
__________________
H. Evan's RV-7A N17HH 240+ hours
"We can lift ourselves out of ignorance, we can find ourselves as creatures of excellence and intelligence and skill. We can be free! We can learn to fly!" -J.L. Seagull
Paid $25.00 "dues" net of PayPal cost for 2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018 (December).
This airplane is for sale: see website. my website
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08-30-2013, 07:34 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Freericksburg, VA
Posts: 624
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IIRC Vans suggested RTV to attach and seal the static line so your approach would be fine. Only thing I would add would be to support the line near the attachment port in a manner such that the natural bending force of the tubing isn't trying to pull the tube off the rivet. Zip ties to bulkhead serve the purpose in my -4.
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08-30-2013, 03:51 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: lake charles, La.
Posts: 699
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I used very small tie wrap from horrible freight tool and supported to bulkhead as mentioned above.
Bird
__________________
Bird
rv8 entire airframe at airport now, painting done, intersection and gear upper and lower fairings done, maybe order engine around first of year or before the next rate increase.
"to fly is a privilege that I am so thankful to God for"
http://www.mykitlog.com/tcb328/
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08-31-2013, 09:44 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,027
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A leak free connection is important.
The small tube will stretch over the head of the set rivet, though it does take some effort. Once installed, the instructions specify a fillet of RTV be applied around the tube where it butts up against the side skin to help assure a good long term seal and prevent the tube from coming off.
__________________
Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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08-31-2013, 11:10 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bird
I used very small tie wrap from horrible freight tool and supported to bulkhead as mentioned above.
Bird
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An O-ring would provide a better and more even seal. It would also be easier to install back in the tail cone.
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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08-31-2013, 03:53 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,587
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Brilliant!
Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila
An O-ring would provide a better and more even seal. It would also be easier to install back in the tail cone.
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Wow, why didn't I think of that? Don't answer .
That is the kind of solution I needed, I think. Thanks much!
__________________
H. Evan's RV-7A N17HH 240+ hours
"We can lift ourselves out of ignorance, we can find ourselves as creatures of excellence and intelligence and skill. We can be free! We can learn to fly!" -J.L. Seagull
Paid $25.00 "dues" net of PayPal cost for 2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018 (December).
This airplane is for sale: see website. my website
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09-01-2013, 06:19 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Cumming, Georgia
Posts: 873
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Remember when putting in static lines, I provided a nice U turn up to the static port and thus created a nice water trap. Bad! Since most do not plug their static Ports it be comes important that the static line does not droop below the port on the inside on the fuselage as it can trap water and possible freeze at higher altitudes or in cold WX.. I cleaned the port and line after modifying them and used JB weld to seal it.
Lesson learned, nothing like flying with a frozen static system
__________________
Smilin' Jack & Anita Hunt
N507H RV7, KJZP Jasper, GA
EAA690
APRS/ WB4JKY
Retired Corporate Pilot CFI-AI, MEL
CE500, LRJT, HS25, C650, SBJT, CL60
Hunt Aviation, LLC.
Pilot Service, IPC's Biennials.
Comm Glider
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09-05-2013, 06:36 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,587
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Thanks to aZ_gila!
Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila
An O-ring would provide a better and more even seal. It would also be easier to install back in the tail cone.
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The O-ring worked perfectly. I selected one from the hardware store which was easy to stretch and with an I.D. small enough to put some pressure on the hose. After which, I RTV'd the heck out of it.
And, of course, I endorse the caution about ensuring that the ports are lower than the tubing so that water will not accumulate. Also, properly supporting the tubing for G-loads and vibration. You do have them on both sides, as well, right?
Newbies: don't be like me; read the plans carefully.
__________________
H. Evan's RV-7A N17HH 240+ hours
"We can lift ourselves out of ignorance, we can find ourselves as creatures of excellence and intelligence and skill. We can be free! We can learn to fly!" -J.L. Seagull
Paid $25.00 "dues" net of PayPal cost for 2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018 (December).
This airplane is for sale: see website. my website
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