Plumbing a Fuel Return to Tanks

smithhb · #1 08-23-2006, 07:59 PM

I'm building my tanks now and want to plumb a fuel return. I'm planning on "capping" the return fitting if I purchase an engine that doesn't require a return.

Does anyone have a picture of their installation and possibly a materials list/source for the fittings?

frankh · #2 08-23-2006, 09:24 PM

Not really very much to tell Bret.

I took a 1/4" return to my R fuel tank and mounted an AN4 bulkhead fitting and a tube on the back to go to the next bay outboard to get the warm return fuel way from the tank outlet. Mine was for the Airflow performance purge valve return.

If you are using say an Egenfelner you might want to put a 3/8ths return on Each tank, which will be an AN6 bulkhead fitting.

There is plenty of room...I have a high pressure fuel pump and fuel return in each wing root plus the purge valve return lisyed above.

I have 2 electric pumps and no mechanical pump.

Once you have decided on what size return you want, its simply 2bulkhead fittings,2 bulkhead nuts, 5 tube nuts and 5 sleeves for each fuel return you want.

This assumes you want a bulkhead fitting for thr fusalage sidewall...You could just pass the tube thru a rubber grommet as well.

Frank

RV7a, TMX IO360, Sam James cowl...Ready for inspection

David-aviator · #3 08-24-2006, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smithhb

I'm building my tanks now and want to plumb a fuel return. I'm planning on "capping" the return fitting if I purchase an engine that doesn't require a return.

Does anyone have a picture of their installation and possibly a materials list/source for the fittings?

Bret,

All of the Egg Suby guys have it. If you go to the Eggenfellner web site and click on installation, there is a very detailed installation PDF file with chapters for each system. Go to the fuel system and you should find what you are looking for.

You will need a 6 port valve to redirect return fuel to the tank in use. Or you could use a separate valve that would port return fuel to either tank.

dd

RV7Factory · #4 08-24-2006, 03:43 PM

You can find some pics of my install here. I put it where I did to avoid problems with the flop-tubes and capacitive sender plates. If you are using standard pick-ups and float senders, you would probably have more flexibility with location. I ran tubing to the outboard end of the tank, but I have seen where others have not... it's up to you.

I cannot take credit for what I did, I just copied someone else.

Captain_John · #5 08-24-2006, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV7Factory

You can find some pics of my install here. I put it where I did to avoid problems with the flop-tubes and capacitive sender plates. If you are using standard pick-ups and float senders, you would probably have more flexibility with location. I ran tubing to the outboard end of the tank, but I have seen where others have not... it's up to you.

I cannot take credit for what I did, I just copied someone else.

WOW! They look like mine!!!

CJ

RV7Factory · #6 08-25-2006, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain_John

WOW! They look like mine!!!

You betcha!!!

rv6ejguy · #7 08-25-2006, 10:08 AM

Another tip to avoid the Pro-seal mess is to use bulkhead fittings sealed with Earls Stato-seals. These are O-rings bonded to an aluminum sealing washer. Slick, no mess, cheaper and the work for me on my 6A/ EFI.

On the RV10, well you don't have the big cover plate and there is only one place for the fittings. I have photos for those who want to see what is involved there. It can be done reaching through the sender hole on a QB.