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08-22-2006, 09:17 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,452
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Platenut question
I am currently working on the left elevator of my -8. It is the first time that I will have to install platenuts. My question is, do I dimple or countersink the platenuts?
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Axel
RV-4 fastback thread and Pics
VAF 2020 paid VAF 704
The information that I post is just that; information and my own personal experiences. You need to weight out the pros and cons and make up your own mind/decisions. The pictures posted may not show the final stage or configuration. Build at your own risk.
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08-22-2006, 09:25 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Racine, WI
Posts: 235
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Dimple
I would dimple them, that's what I do and it works well. You will need to use a small diameter female dimple die to make it work.
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Eric Wolf
RV-8A Flying since May 2009, 300+ hours
Mattituck IOF-360, WW 200RV Prop
N184EW
Past President, EAA838 Racine, WI
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08-22-2006, 09:38 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,452
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by ericwolf
I would dimple them, that's what I do and it works well. You will need to use a small diameter female dimple die to make it work.
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do you not use a #40 die if the rivet is a 246AD3-3.5? What is a "small diameter female dimple"? Thanks!
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Axel
RV-4 fastback thread and Pics
VAF 2020 paid VAF 704
The information that I post is just that; information and my own personal experiences. You need to weight out the pros and cons and make up your own mind/decisions. The pictures posted may not show the final stage or configuration. Build at your own risk.
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08-22-2006, 09:47 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: ...
Posts: 2,049
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Neither. Try NAS1097AD3-3.5 rivets. Van's sells 'em. They have a smaller head than the AN426, and all it takes is some "light" countersinking with a deburring tool, and you have a deep enough c-sink for the NAS1097 rivet.
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Dan Checkoway RV-7
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08-22-2006, 09:56 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NC25
Posts: 3,503
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If you do not want to buy special rivets, dimple the material if it is too thin to countersink, do NOTHING to the platenuts, and rivet it in place. Yes there is a gap between the dimple and the nutplate but so what. The rivet keeps the platenut from turning and the platenut holds the fastener in place. This works elsewhere in the airplane and spacers are not needed.
My airplane has not fallen apart after 8 years 11 months and 1,936 flying hours and that is how it is built.
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Gary A. Sobek
NC25 RV-6 Flying
3,400+ hours
Where is N157GS
Building RV-8 S/N: 80012
To most people, the sky is the limit.
To those who love aviation, the sky is home.
Last edited by RV6_flyer : 08-23-2006 at 06:15 AM.
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08-22-2006, 11:49 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,452
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by dan
Neither. Try NAS1097AD3-3.5 rivets. Van's sells 'em. They have a smaller head than the AN426, and all it takes is some "light" countersinking with a deburring tool, and you have a deep enough c-sink for the NAS1097 rivet.
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Dang!! I bought those too after you told me in the EAA class. Too late now  I already dimpled the plates and the plate nuts.
__________________
Axel
RV-4 fastback thread and Pics
VAF 2020 paid VAF 704
The information that I post is just that; information and my own personal experiences. You need to weight out the pros and cons and make up your own mind/decisions. The pictures posted may not show the final stage or configuration. Build at your own risk.
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08-23-2006, 04:59 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: south carolina
Posts: 1,111
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dimple
dimple them it faster and stronger.
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William Weesner/ still kicking.
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08-23-2006, 06:28 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Racine, WI
Posts: 235
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yes, #40
Quote:
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Originally Posted by AX-O
do you not use a #40 die if the rivet is a 246AD3-3.5? What is a "small diameter female dimple"? Thanks!
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Sorry if I wasn't clear. Yes, use a #40 dimple die, but I meant that the outer diameter of die itself needs to be small enough to clear the platenut. If you have the Avery tool kit, then you will have both a large and small diameter #40 female die. The other way to do this is to grind down one side of the die.
__________________
Eric Wolf
RV-8A Flying since May 2009, 300+ hours
Mattituck IOF-360, WW 200RV Prop
N184EW
Past President, EAA838 Racine, WI
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08-23-2006, 06:45 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Northwestern USA
Posts: 1,209
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by dan
Neither. Try NAS1097AD3-3.5 rivets. Van's sells 'em. They have a smaller head than the AN426, and all it takes is some "light" countersinking with a deburring tool, and you have a deep enough c-sink for the NAS1097 rivet.
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I agree - I picked up this trick on Dan's site and now I use nothing but these guys for attaching platenuts, including the 3,427 platenuts I used for the baggage floor.
mcb
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Matt Burch
RV-7 (last 90%)
http://www.rv7blog.com
VAF #836
Any opinions expressed in this message are my own and not those of my employer.
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08-23-2006, 07:16 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 659
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by RV6_flyer
If you do not want to buy special rivets, dimple the material if it is too thin to countersink, do NOTHING to the platenuts, and rivet it in place. Yes there is a gap between the dimple and the nutplate but so what. The rivet keeps the platenut from turning and the platenut holds the fastener in place. This works elsewhere in the airplane and spacers are not needed.
My airplane has not fallen apart after 8 years 11 months and 1,936 flying hours and that is how it is built.
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This is what I did. No CSing or dimpling of the platenuts - just rivet them on. The gap is too minor to think about and it's one less thing you have to do.
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"Pilots: Looking down on people since 1903"
(author unknown)
RV-9, N556RM, O-320, Dual PMags, Catto 3 blade.
FLYING since 2018
Mosquito XEL ready for flight
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