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  #1  
Old 07-15-2013, 07:05 PM
AllThumbs's Avatar
AllThumbs AllThumbs is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Novato, CA
Posts: 319
Default Solve my riddle?

Hi folks,

My charging system died (yes, I think we have a cluster of cases now - sunspots?).

I have an RV-6 (O-360-A1A) with an unknown alternator and a zeftronics R1540X regulator/OV on the firewall. I only rebuilt the panel and there is no documentation on which alternator is installed. The FLD/GND plug is a 3 pin plug but only FLD and GND are attached to the regulator.

Resistance on the FLD coil (between FLD and GND) is infinite. For most coils this should be some low ohm reading so I'm guessing my alt-coil is dead.

With BATT on voltage to A+ on alternator is good (+12.x) and with ALT on voltage to the FLD wire is also good (+12.x).

The Zef regulator has a self-test that says its fine and the output seems to confirm that.

Now the BIG questions - what alternator is this and is it bad? No label (fell off) and no data block anywhere.

Here is a link to pix of the front and back:
http://flic.kr/s/aHsjGS9GuM

Thanks for any advice!
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  #2  
Old 07-15-2013, 07:22 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
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Looks to be a 85 Honda Civic 35 amp alternator. This is the one Van's sold for years. Remove it and take it to your local repair shop for evaluation. Stock bearings in these were not good.
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  #3  
Old 07-15-2013, 07:40 PM
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Neal@F14 Neal@F14 is offline
 
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Location: Wichita Falls, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasman View Post
Looks to be a 85 Honda Civic 35 amp alternator. This is the one Van's sold for years. Remove it and take it to your local repair shop for evaluation. Stock bearings in these were not good.
Yep, late 70's - early 80's Honda Civic (without air conditioner) 35A alternator. Your local alternator shop can rebuild it. Put a larger pulley on it so it doesn't spin too fast. If the Zef regulator turns out to be bad, use a cheap 1975 Ford LTD regulator from Pep Boys / O'Reilleys auto parts store. This is the same alternator I have on my RV-6. My original Vans-supplied regulator (Mopar 2-wire regulator) failed and $27 got me a solid-state BWD "Select" regulator that works great.
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Last edited by Neal@F14 : 07-15-2013 at 07:43 PM.
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  #4  
Old 07-15-2013, 07:49 PM
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Location: Novato, CA
Posts: 319
Default Upgrade time?

Wow - that was, I think, 30 minute response time on 2 answers!

Ironically, I have a new B&C LR3C-14 I bought cheap on VAF in case the zef died someday. Considering the questionable bearing issue and the fact that I am converting this bird to light IFR, I am considering just upgrading to a B&C L-40 and installing the new regulator with it.

Any thoughts on B&C upgrade v.s. just OH'ing the alternator I have? I don't have much experience with charging systems.

I just noticed a possible oil leak in my picture. When I have the alternator off I'm going to clean that up to try and locate the leak.
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  #5  
Old 07-15-2013, 08:03 PM
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Walt Walt is offline
 
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Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllThumbs View Post
Any thoughts on B&C upgrade v.s. just OH'ing the alternator I have? I don't have much experience with charging systems.
I would upgrade to the B&C if reliability is more important to you than saving a few bucks.
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  #6  
Old 07-16-2013, 07:12 AM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
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Location: Riley TWP MI
Posts: 3,068
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The most likely cause of an open field circuit is worn brushes, not a broken wire in the field winding.
Joe Gores
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  #7  
Old 07-16-2013, 09:45 AM
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Default Alternator 101

I just read up on slip-rings and brushes on the field circuit. Interesting, using electromagnets to vary the input to drive the output.

This is very different from the fixed-magnet regulators I'm learning about through Rotax and AeroVee installations. I should have remembered this from back in my Corvair days but, frankly, I had bigger things breaking on that car.

I plan to pull the old alternator today and try a cheap repair/replacement while ordering a B&C L-40 for a longer term fix.
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