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  #11  
Old 07-09-2013, 05:54 AM
jmbaute jmbaute is offline
 
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There is another thread that suggests setting them with a ball peen hammer....After clenching them with a squeezer, I used a shorter rivet the next time and tried the hammer method- not perfect but good enough.
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  #12  
Old 07-09-2013, 07:44 AM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbaute View Post
There is another thread that suggests setting them with a ball peen hammer....After clenching them with a squeezer, I used a shorter rivet the next time and tried the hammer method- not perfect but good enough.
That is the method I've used on several non-RV pushrods. The clench is just to keep the rivet from falling out of the hole. All the "problems" stated in this thread are cosmetic, not structural.
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  #13  
Old 07-09-2013, 01:24 PM
Charles in SC Charles in SC is offline
 
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Default If you weld...

If you weld them be sure to protect the threads and a vent hole should be drilled. After welding the tube should be oiled inside and then the vent closed with the proper rivet.
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  #14  
Old 07-09-2013, 06:22 PM
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I went with riveting over welding. I didn't want to risk the heat of the weld changing the characteristics of the metal tube/threaded end. Probably overly cautious, but the riveting went smoothly.

I measured equidistant rivet hioles by wrapping a piece of blue tape around the rod, marking where they overlap and measuring on a (horrors) metric rule in millimeters. Easy to divide by the number of holes to be drilled. IE, what's 3 1/2" divided by 6 vs 90mm divided by 6? :-)
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  #15  
Old 07-09-2013, 08:45 PM
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Caummisar Caummisar is offline
 
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Default Calipers

I set the end of the tube(s) vertically on a piece of paper and traced the OD onto the paper. Then I took a double sharp-pointed /screw adjustable caliper and walked it around the circle. I made fine adjustments until the last point landed on the starting point with the requisite number of hole marks (i.e. 6 holes requires six walking points around the circle....When the last point matches the starting point, you have equally spaced points around the circle.) It usually only takes three or four trips around the circle until the fine adjustments make the last point land on the first point. Once the spacing is established, mark lines radially to the circle, put the tube vertically on the paper and transfer the marks to the tube. Voila, your tube is marked for equally spaced rivets. Now flip the tube over and mark the other end!

As for the rivets, I used an Avery C-frame and the second rivet set that comes with it that fits into a rivet gun. The C-frame keeps this long set exactly in alignment and allows for extra control so the set stays on the rivet. Just hold the tube tightly with your other hand so it doesn't rotate. Also, ensure the other end is supported so that the rivet is kept aligned with the set.
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  #16  
Old 07-09-2013, 11:38 PM
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Well, I managed to get them done - if not completely to my satisfaction, to the point where they are serviceable and not too ugly. I'm moving on.

I don't know if JB Weld would provide any real benefit. If the rivet shank expands much when it's set, it it seems to me it would most likely just crack the epoxy. Maybe I'm wrong. Anyway, if I build another RV (ain't happening!) I'll have them welded.
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  #17  
Old 07-12-2013, 03:27 AM
Smilin' Jack Smilin' Jack is offline
 
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After struggling with the same I reordered two more with the rod ends I had mine welded and put one rivet as a safety measure. They worked out beautiful
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