Dynon equipment questions on my RV-9A

[ron sterba]

Dynon CHT probes don't have a hex head to tighten the probe into the hole. Appears maybe a slot across the end of the probe,is this for a screwdriver install?
Dynon probe wires from firewall. Can I run them together thru the firewall opening with the mag wires and ignition wires? Should some wires be separated or isolated on the pass thru?

Third to last question. I'm just building 9A panel. (planning a July 31st first flight). I have a skyview 10" and thought about getting a 7" skyview to just show the engine instrument readings.Your two cents on those big buck screens. Oh one more. What's your thoughts on a vertical power X versus just switches and separate circuit breakers?

Cowl pin Horizontal, at the front. How did you design a fancy cover plate over the end tab where the screw goes in to hold your pin from coming out.

MUCH APPRECIATED DO'S AND DON'TS. PROS AND CONS.

Ron in Oregon N421HJ

[Buggsy2]

Originally Posted by ron sterba

Dynon probe wires from firewall. Can I run them together thru the firewall opening with the mag wires and ignition wires? Should some wires be separated or isolated on the pass thru?

I always heard it's best to separate power wires from sensor wires. I put in two separated pass-thrus in my firewall for this.

Third to last question. I'm just building 9A panel. (planning a July 31st first flight). I have a skyview 10" and thought about getting a 7" skyview to just show the engine instrument readings.Your two cents on those big buck screens. Oh one more. What's your thoughts on a vertical power X versus just switches and separate circuit breakers?

I got one of the last VP-200s (now discontinued) which has its own small LCD display for engine info, and eliminates most panel switches. The VP-X must display engine info on a non-VP display, like the Dynon, and must still have panel switches. In spite of that, if I hadn't been able to get the VP-200, I still would have got the VP-X. The panel switches with the VP-X use low-current switches and low-current wires between each switch and the VP-X, and the VP-X provides a lot of benefit, just not as much as the -200 model.

If you can afford it, seems to me a second Dynon LCD display is a good thing, not only for engine data but as backup to the primary display.

Cowl pin Horizontal, at the front. How did you design a fancy cover plate over the end tab where the screw goes in to hold your pin from coming out.

I just saw where someone created something for that. However, I'm not going to cover it up, I'll do it like the Vans plans. It's a critical safety item and I want to see it on every pre-flight inspection.

[Ron B.]

A screwdriver is what I used on three engines, don't know if that is what your supposed to use but over 1000hrs and no issue.
I think you could run these wires together but I would check with Dynon to make sure if it's not in there manual.
In our 10 , we had two screens, a 10" on the pilot's side and a 7" on the co-pilot's side. We would split the 10" screen, half and half. The EMS side would be on the right half. We were four partners and all of us sitting in the co-pilot side would prefer look at the pilot's 10" screen than look at the 7" in front of you. I would go with one 10" screen and split it or if $$$ allowed then two 10". In my Super Cub I have the smaller D120 and D100 screens and due to the panel being much closer to my face , have no issues with them. I'm not sure how the distance in a 9 verses a 10.
Ron

[bruceh]

Originally Posted by ron sterba

Dynon CHT probes don't have a hex head to tighten the probe into the hole. Appears maybe a slot across the end of the probe,is this for a screwdriver install?

Yes. Need a wide blade though.

Originally Posted by ron sterba

Cowl pin Horizontal, at the front. How did you design a fancy cover plate over the end tab where the screw goes in to hold your pin from coming out.

I have a bunch of photos I took of the process I used on my web site. Just lay up some fiberglass over the area to use as the plug. Cut it to your desired shape. Cut out the same shape underneath on the cowling. Tape your plug/cover you made flush to the cowling, then lay up some more fiberglass underneath as a backing plate for your cover and to hold the nutplates.

[ron sterba]

Bruce nice pictures, very helpful! Thats my next project. Ron thanks , I think I got just the right one for the job. Feeling better already. Going to head up to Pacific coast Avionics which is at the same airport as Vans. Ill have to stare at the 7" & 10" again! I think another pass thru is in order Ralph, I'll check out the Pro X at Pac Coast Avionics too! Thanks

Ron in Oregon