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08-13-2006, 08:46 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Maple Grove, MN
Posts: 2,331
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5" hook and loop wet/dry sandpaper 220 grit
One would think this would be relatively easy to find, but I cannot find any true wet/dry disks. Does anyone know where to find them, or is the association of water and power tools too scary for the manufacturers? I'm smoothing down epoxy, and dry paper simply gums up. The 220 grit regular work perfectly for about 60 seconds, then it dissolves.
Thanks,
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Alex Peterson
RV6A N66AP 1700+ hours
KADC, Wadena, MN
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08-13-2006, 03:41 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: south carolina
Posts: 1,111
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wet or dry ?
i havent seen any wet or dry as you mention, but if my paper clogs i slap it with a mixing stick every so often. how long are you trying to get the paper to last? is the epoxy fully cured? the body shop guys go through a ton of it. but they are a touch wastefull. good luck ps i use the sticky back DA paper and go through quite a bit of it.
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William Weesner/ still kicking.
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08-13-2006, 04:42 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Maple Grove, MN
Posts: 2,331
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I'm building a cedar strip canoe, so there is a lot of area. The outside is 7 oz glass, with a layer of epoxy over it. I'm sanding to level it. The epoxy is fully cured, and I've found that I can level it with dry 120 grit if I'm careful. I'll wet sand by hand prior to polyurethane spray.
And people actually build airplanes with this junk?
Thanks.
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Alex Peterson
RV6A N66AP 1700+ hours
KADC, Wadena, MN
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08-13-2006, 05:17 PM
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VAF Moderator / Line Boy
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dayton, NV
Posts: 12,247
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ahhh...the good old cedar canoe! Few would appreciate those around here Alex...
FYI, I used an orbital sander to do most of the fiberglass finishing on the -8, becasue I just HATE hand sanding. Must have gone through two "contractor boxes" of each grit in the process - and yes, my Midwestern roots were telling me I was being wasteful. But when I added up the $9 per box, and realized how much time I'd saved by not hand sanding, I quite worrying about it.
Yup, the 220 loaded up in like a minute!
Paul
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Paul F. Dye
Editor at Large - KITPLANES Magazine
RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie"
RV-6 (By Marriage) - N164MS - "Mikey"
RV-3B - N13PL - "Tsamsiyu"
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor
Dayton Valley Airpark (A34)
http://Ironflight.com
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08-13-2006, 05:30 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 165
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wet or dry
Buy regular wet or dry, cut out the disk size you need and contact glue to your sander. works great
N51HS will be finished painting on Tuesday. Then off to the airport for FINAL assembly. Then the wait for the Feds.
She will be named the "Double Eagle" as there are two eagles built into the plane.
Cheers
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08-14-2006, 12:08 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oliver, B.C. Canada (Okanagan valley)
Posts: 786
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wet and dry
Ya....and very little water with 120 v/ac. You wonder why manufactures
don't make W+D sanding discs for power sanders? 
__________________
Lorne
RV 7a tip-up
Pre-cover MD-RA Inspected.
Canopy completed. Bonded with Sika-Flex.
Up on her mains, Firewall Fwd and wiring on going.
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08-14-2006, 09:33 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: south carolina
Posts: 1,111
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jitter bug
you can use a jitter bug sander that clamps on wet or dry. ive used this for wetsanding fiberglass tops on k-5 blazers with excellent results..the body shop folks typically hate these things.. http://www.tylertool.com/cr932x63pada.html
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William Weesner/ still kicking.
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