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Deburring Chatter Marks

atalla

Well Known Member
Ok so I'll get right to it.
Not happy with these marks at all. If deburring is to reduce stress that could form a crack these marks can't be helping. Im a new builder. This was done with a standard 3 flute countersink cutter that has come with most of our tool kits. I do have mine attached to a low RPM cordless screwdriver. While using it i only use the weight of the tool it self as I'm worried about over doing it.1 rpm per hole. (I have a timing mark on the cutter). While I do have a Zero flute cutter on the way I just wanna ask you guys if you think this is still Airworthy.

Thoughts?

 
Deburing

Are you deburring after dimpling or before?
Just wondering.
Personally I use reamers. Almost no bur which means almost no deburring.
I prefer a hand speed tool with almost no pressure. Two turns is plenty.
Some scuff the skin with maroon scotchbrite to remove the burrs.
It takes almost no pressure or effort on a skin.

As far as thise holes, rub them with scotchbrite and build on.
 
Last edited:
Single flute

On it 100%

Good luck. Cleveland hasn't sold them for weeks. Aircraft Tool might have them in stock again. I quit using them after snapping the pilot off my second one.
Best of luck with the search.
 
I recommend you ditch the power tool.
A sharp 3 flute deburring tool needs no more than 1/2 - 3/4 turn to do the job.

Most rooky builders way over deburr. Using a power tool makes the likelihood of that even higher in my opinion.

I agree it looks like you are deburring after dimpling? If so, why?
 
Gentlemen,

Good luck. Cleveland hasn't sold them for weeks. Aircraft Tool might have them in stock again. I quit using them after snapping the pilot off my second one.
Best of luck with the search.

Got an e-mail from Annette at Cleaveland this week. #40 single flute tool back in stock. My order shipped on Thursday.

A sharp 3 flute deburring tool needs no more than 1/2 - 3/4 turn to do the job.

Thanks for the tip. I've been doing 1 1/2 to 2 as well. Seemed like too much. Now I know.

Reflex
 
I debur with a large sharp drill bit by hand. Works for me. It takes off the burr but very little else.
 
I debur with a large sharp drill bit by hand. Works for me. It takes off the burr but very little else.

same here. Finger tips get a little sore when doing a large sheet, but this method gives you good control and trains you to feel what you are doing to the metal. it is also difficult to apply too much pressure.

Larry
 
same here. Finger tips get a little sore when doing a large sheet, but this method gives you good control and trains you to feel what you are doing to the metal. it is also difficult to apply too much pressure.

Larry

Yes, and the 118 or 135 degree angle of the drill bit cutting edges removes burrs better than a 100 degree countersinking tool.

Stick the drill bit in a file handle to make it more comfortable.
 
Yes, and the 118 or 135 degree angle of the drill bit cutting edges removes burrs better than a 100 degree countersinking tool.

That's been an important detail for me, as well. I wish I could find some 150 degree bits. The closer to 'flat' the angle is, the less danger of removing material from the edges of the hole itself.

A slightly dull drill bit will 'curl' a burr away from the edge of the hole, and a 100 degree deburring tool will miss the curled burr until it noticeably tapers the hole itself.
 
Try using cobalt double margin drills from Pan American Tool Co.
Leaves hole like it's been reamed.
 
I am using a #40 Reemer for any match drilling that has inc pre punched holes and standard drill bits from Aircraft Spruce.
 
Yes, and the 118 or 135 degree angle of the drill bit cutting edges removes burrs better than a 100 degree countersinking tool.

Stick the drill bit in a file handle to make it more comfortable.

+1 on 135 degree bits. I found the punch exit burr from Vans CNC sheet punching machine too difficult to remove using 100 deg bits. I had a 1/4" threaded drill bit so it went into my deburr speed handle very early in my build.
 
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