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C-frame differences

ryanturner

Member
From reading the forums, everyone has good things to say about both Cleaveland and Avery tools, and their tools are similar in quality and functionality. I am about to purchase a c-frame and it appears that there is some sort of difference between there c-frames. Cleaveland sells a retrofit kit that allows you to convert an avery-style c-frame for use with there backriveting set. Also, there is an EAA video that mentions the differences, but still leaves me confused. Can someone shed some light on the topic for me?

The EAA video is here: http://link.brightcove.com/services/link/bcpid1431564069/bclid1432790122/bctid1803209366
 
I'm not positive on this, because i don't own an avery c frame. but i think the avery cframe bottom only holds dimple sized dies.

the cleveland (i own one) is sized on the bottom to hold rivet sets, and so it is more versatile. it comes with a rivet set that holds dimple dies, so you can do all the normal dimpling, then if you want to use the cframe to do the rivets on a spar, you can use your standard rivet set on the bottom and a back rivet on the top
 
Cleaveland

It's been a while since I used a Avery's C-frame but I think Danny is right, it only accepts squeezer style dies. While the Cleaveland C-frame (what I have) uses a pneumatic rivet gun set on the bottom that accepts squeezer dies, or you can use any rivet gun sets you have in there. Also I believe the upper shaft on the Cleaveland C-frame is turned down on the top so it will fit into a rivet gun. So you can use it to back rivet or what have you. (I think this was handy on the RV-6 spars)
 
Rivet sets

I have the Cleaveland and the main difference (only one I can see) is that the lower holder accepts all .401 rivet sets. I also bought the optional upper ram that is tapered to use a rivet gun but I believe it also fits the Avery.

I've used it alot for the -4 (larger) rivets on the spars in the empennage kit.

Here's a video of a friend using the nearly foolproof method of driving a -4 rivet with the C-Frame.

http://larrys-airplane.blogspot.com/2009/02/riveting-horizontal-rear-spar.html
 
My avery c-frame came with a small extension so I can raise up the squeezer dies on the bottom. It also came with a shaft for the top that fits the rivet gun.
 
you need to slightly modify the avery ...

I'm "almost" certain (will have to check email when I get home - at work right now) that you have to enlarge a hole at the bottom of the avery to accept the cleveland part. I emailed avery about this recently, and I'm fairly sure that was the answer and the only thing necessary, and apparently does no damage etc to prevent normal avery intended use. Will update with a quote from the email I got from them soon ...

I'm kinda thinking of the DRDT2 for noise and consistency reasons, but its a lot more expensive, and freight would be a lot higher too because of the weight. Trying to work out the best solution - kind of want to use one or the other, and not buy a DRDT2 and still have to get a c-frame for some other reason, eg the DRDT2 can't do the back riveting that the OP of this thread was referring to. But maybe the use of that technique is fairly limited anyway?

Rgds

Darren
 
Forget ALL the c-frames...

and buy the DRDT-2. It's the BEST MONEY YOU WILL EVER SPEND on aircraft tools...hydraulic squeezer comes in a very close second.
 
Make your own frame

I went with the DRDT-2, I just brought the front end kit and made my own frame up. No worries about frieght and it only took a few hours one afternoon to make.

It really is a excellent tool and well worth the extra.

Cheers

Peter
 
Upgrading the ATS C Frame

I’m adding the retrofit to the ATS C Frame.
Drilled and tapped 2 new holes for the arm and added the retrofit in front of the existing one.
Almost done, much more robust!
You can drive rivets blindfolded ;)
 

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