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Sika Flex Process Instructions

pilot28906

Well Known Member
Does someone have the steps to attach the canopy to the frame on a RV7 tip up? I am trying to decide whether to rivet or use Sika Flex.

Thanks
 
PM or email me for snaps of gluing on.

RV14 at graffika dot biz

Please do not screw it on.

Gluing is a bit more work, a little pay attention time, a bit more thought but oh my, it is much better.

We are now building 2 RV12's and will probably glue them on as well (no constraints about build to book in the UK).

Oh, we plan on gluing our RV14 as well.

We are busy boys :D
 
Thanks for all the great instructions.

Does anyone have instructions for building the aluminum channel canopy clamps to hold the canopy to the frame while the Sika dries?
 
I used some rectangles of architectural aluminum & clecos (screw type clecos where needed) through the rectangles and the side rail of the canopy frame.

If you need pics, pm me your email address. It's just too much of a hassle to upload the pics to a photo site, then get the correct link, then...

Charlie
 
Two step bond

I did it a bit differently band it worked great. I made a second set of side skirts out of .128 to .250 alu ( doesn't have to be quality stuff just stiff). I drilled all the holes in the original skirts first then copied them to the throw away set. I covered the throw away set with shinny packing tap so if any Sitka made contact it would not stick.

The first bond was to bond the canopy to the front and rear frame contact surfaces (roll bar and forward frame) as well as the outboard side of the frame rails but only put sika where the plastic touches the frame no Sitka on the outboard plastic).

After it was cured (overnight) I removed the all the clecos holding the throw away side rails and lightly sanded any Sitka that had squeezed down form under the plastic, then coated the outboard surface of the canopy and frame with sitka and installed the final side rails with clecos. Once that was cured I final riveted the side rails.
 
They were pretty easy to make. I found the 2" X 4" X 1/8" thickness rectangular tubing scraps at Industrial Metal Supply in San Diego in their bargin bin. Paid $7 for a bunch of them. Cut them on the band saw to take off one end and square them up, then added a small piece of wood to take up the slack around the canopy rail flange. Tapped the other side for a bolt to become the clamping force, and put some plastic vacuum caps on the ends to keep them from scratching anything.

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John, I used one cleaner, one primer and three Sikaflex with about half a tube left over and lots of cleaner and primer remaining as well.
I also used the U bracket as well. Worked out well.
 
I'm getting ready to Sika my canopy. Based on posts here on VAF, I built my custom clamps for the canopy:

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Should be good, me thinks. Gluing the canopy this weekend.
 
John, I used one cleaner, one primer and three Sikaflex with about half a tube left over and lots of cleaner and primer remaining as well.
I also used the U bracket as well. Worked out well.

I'm also hoping to glue my canopy this weekend, but I have a question about the supplies. I only have one tube of SikaFlex on hand (2 more on order but that won't arrive until next week). Is that enough to do the tip up main window without the outside under the side skirts?

I went really simple with the clamps - more like clips, just 3" pieces of small 1/2" x 1/2" u-channel aluminum (channel wide enough for a cleco body). I drilled 2 holes in the bottom of the channel to allow me to cleco the clip to the side skirt holes. This does a great job holding the canopy solidly in place, but doesn't apply a lot of clamping force. I can shim the top of the clip to provide a little more pressure. Anyone think this might not be enough clamping force?

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See my earlier post. I just used slightly bent aluminum rectangles, cleco'd to the skirt holes. Had to use screw type clecos in a couple of spots near the windshield area.

Charlie
 
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