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Tip up side skirt overlap on fuselage

JanRV6UK

Well Known Member
Appreciate some feedback from anyone who has made the canopy skirt overlap the fuselage ? So far the following photos show my work up to now ? Not sure about the gap required between the skirt and the fuselage ? To stop it scratching off paint. My thought is to have a gap of .025 to .032. Then use a strip of the flap tape on top of the paint once that has been done ..

e1bxx1.jpg


24q6068.jpg
 
Made mine from layed up glass. They hang down about .75".

I put a few layers of duck tape on the fuse prior to laying up.

Have had no scratches to my paint.

I do have the guide blocks on the rollbar to help keep the canopy in line as it closes.
 
tipper skirt

Jan, I think your aluminum skirt will be more durable than a F/Glass skirt. I like your clearences. The 7 canopy skews left/right while opening/closing.
I imagine that the 6's are the same. As Bantel stated, Guide blocks are a must IMHO. Looks good!
 
2m3k5fl.jpg


Thanks for the feedback – This is how I did the canopy guide. As you can see I have not cut the hole yet for the canopy latch. The guide as I made it can be adjusted sideways – and front and back. Securing it to the angle makes it very easy to adjust the spacer. The spacer sits snugly up against the canopy frame.

I have seen the skirt made in fibreglass before – but thought I try and make it all in alu.
 
Jan,

I did a fiberglass skirt and targa strip. With the plastic guides it works fine. I'd recommend that you use countersunk screws on your canopy guide. The exposed screw heads might catch the roller latch arm when you close the canopy.

Dave
RV-6
 
2m3k5fl.jpg


Thanks for the feedback ? This is how I did the canopy guide. As you can see I have not cut the hole yet for the canopy latch. The guide as I made it can be adjusted sideways ? and front and back. Securing it to the angle makes it very easy to adjust the spacer. The spacer sits snugly up against the canopy frame.

I have seen the skirt made in fibreglass before ? but thought I try and make it all in alu.

The guides work better if they are set up to guide the latch down instead of the edge of the canopy frame.

Also, now might be a good time to install your seat backs and check for clearance to the latch plate. You can cut the plate back quite a bit for more clearance. And don't skimp on the latch hole size. It does not need to be a tight fit.... In fact, that plate has no value other than covering the latch hook.
 
As Gasman says... The guide is for the latching pin, not the outside of the canopy. I suspect the screw heads that hold your guide to the roll bar will interfere with the latching pin, it comes close to the rollbar before going through the hole in the latch plate (which you don't have yet).

You will want to cut the latch plate back a bit, if you don't it will cut into the fabric (or leather!) on your seats when they are fully reclined.
 
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