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Fuel Tank leak test kit question

rvanstory

Well Known Member
I hate revealing my ignorance in public, but need to ask this question anyway....

I have quick build wings and doing leak test. In instructions for RV-10 it says to to install a 1/4" pipe plug in place of finger strainer. For the life of me, I can't see where to install that plug? Pulled the finger strainer out and that plug doesn't fit anything. I seem to need to connect 4 things (cap on fuel pick-up fitting, valve to pump air, 1/4" plug, and balloon on vent). Everything makes perfect sense except that 1/4" plug. What am I missing????
 
I put mine in the hole for the fuel supply. At least that?s what I think you?re referring to.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wKttB9ioVU9h5Qmu7

Thanks for the pic! Worth 1,000 words. It appears that something has changed on RV10 fuel supply. It looks like they are now putting the same fuel supply fitting as on other models that use the "cap" and not the "plug". So instead of using both, it appears I pick the one that fits my supply side hole. Where you needed to use the plug to seal off the fuel supply side, the cap fits on my fitting.
 
Just as an aside, I found flaring a small piece of aluminum tubing and attached to the 4d nut and screwed on to the vent fitting on the tank allowed for a piece of clear PVC tubing to attach to the vent fitting as a barometer by running it up a short pole. Filling with the appropriate amount of water gave very precise pressure control. I also marked the column height and watched for it to drop as a secondary sign of a leak.
 
Just as an aside, I found flaring a small piece of aluminum tubing and attached to the 4d nut and screwed on to the vent fitting on the tank allowed for a piece of clear PVC tubing to attach to the vent fitting as a barometer by running it up a short pole. Filling with the appropriate amount of water gave very precise pressure control. I also marked the column height and watched for it to drop as a secondary sign of a leak.

I prefer the manometer for leak testing as apposed to the balloon test. Balloons are porous and leak air over time. With the manometer, you can set it up and leave it for days,,,even a week or more. You can put a yard stick on the board and record the readings. It will go up or down with temperature changes, but the manometer will not leak air like a balloon will. You will know if you have a leak in the tank. I use aluminum HVAC tape to seal over the fuel caps. Don't cover the rivets though. Instructions to build your own manometer are all over the internet. You can build one for under $10.
 
I prefer the manometer for leak testing as apposed to the balloon test. Balloons are porous and leak air over time. With the manometer, you can set it up and leave it for days,,,even a week or more. You can put a yard stick on the board and record the readings. It will go up or down with temperature changes, but the manometer will not leak air like a balloon will. You will know if you have a leak in the tank. I use aluminum HVAC tape to seal over the fuel caps. Don't cover the rivets though. Instructions to build your own manometer are all over the internet. You can build one for under $10.

I prefer the manometer method as well. The method I described and used in the previous post worked well and was simple. I didn?t look up any other methods.
 
RV-10 Fuel Tank Leak

As one who just had to deal with a major fuel tank leak in a 13 year old flying tank, I would suggest that after you do your air leak tests that you fill the tank with fuel and let it set for a minimum of 24 hours.

Had to do this twice, because the first time, a pin hole leak in the old proseal was found that wasn't discovered when we pressurized the tank. The major leak was that the gasket around the fuel float sender had failed.

After setting the second time for 24 hours with the tank full of fuel, I am confident now that the tank is, at this point in time, leak free.
 
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