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couple phase 1 squawks

Bill Boyd

Well Known Member
My oil pressure on the IO-540 is low to mid-20's at idle and 43 in cruise with oil at 210F. Not sure if I need to adjust this badly enough to remove the right rear baffle for access to it - what a royal pain! Engine builder says it's lower limits of normal but should be fine. My gut would prefer to see a higher number but what do I know?

My RV-10 cabin heat comes from only one muff split front and rear via a Y-connector in the tunnel. Several members here said this would be more than enough. I was a little chilly on the last flight even with the TCW heat servo wide open. See where this is going? De-cowled for an oil change and discovered that the heat selector valve is inop and fully closed. Iv'e been flying awhile with no cabin heat and just imagining it was working a wee bit.

The TCW Technologies servos for the oil cooler butterfly and cabin heat shuttle were both operational and calibrated for proper travel limits and direction at initial assembly. As part of my troubleshooting I swapped the controllers out on the respective harnesses. The oil cooler butterfly controller works on the oil cooler harness but not on the heat door actuator. The heat controller does not appear work on either actuator. It's almost like there's been a failure of both the heat controller board and the linear actuator given the way these components are behaving when swapped around. They draw power and ground from a common source so it's not that. I'm stumped but not giving up yet.

It's nice to imagine how great that cabin heat will be when it's actually turned on!
 
My oil pressure on the IO-540 is low to mid-20's at idle and 43 in cruise with oil at 210F. Not sure if I need to adjust this badly enough to remove the right rear baffle for access to it - what a royal pain! Engine builder says it's lower limits of normal but should be fine. My gut would prefer to see a higher number but what do I know?

My RV-10 cabin heat comes from only one muff split front and rear via a Y-connector in the tunnel. Several members here said this would be more than enough. I was a little chilly on the last flight even with the TCW heat servo wide open. See where this is going? De-cowled for an oil change and discovered that the heat selector valve is inop and fully closed. Iv'e been flying awhile with no cabin heat and just imagining it was working a wee bit.

The TCW Technologies servos for the oil cooler butterfly and cabin heat shuttle were both operational and calibrated for proper travel limits and direction at initial assembly. As part of my troubleshooting I swapped the controllers out on the respective harnesses. The oil cooler butterfly controller works on the oil cooler harness but not on the heat door actuator. The heat controller does not appear work on either actuator. It's almost like there's been a failure of both the heat controller board and the linear actuator given the way these components are behaving when swapped around. They draw power and ground from a common source so it's not that. I'm stumped but not giving up yet.

It's nice to imagine how great that cabin heat will be when it's actually turned on!

I would DEFINATELY up the oil pressure. I believe Lyc states a minimum of 25 PSI at idle and that is usually on worn out engines. I believe they also require at least 55 PSI at cruise RPM. I would not accept a cruise OP of 40 PSI for several reasons, not the least of which is the manufacturers recommendation. I had to do mine in Phase I. You don't need to remove the rear baffle. Just griind away enough of the baffle with a dremel and die grinder. You can easily re-fill the area with RTV. Or you can make a filler plate adn attach with pop rivets.

Bad advice from your engine builder.

Larry
 
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Oil Pressure

The info I got from Barrett recommends no less than 25 psi at idle and 60-90 psi for normal operations...

I also have a squawk on my -10.

I spent a huge amount of time getting the flaps, ailerons, and tips lined up and rigged...and I STILL ended up with a heavy right wing. I did a couple minor adjustments, and now it flies fine with flaps 0. When I reflex the flaps, however, it again wants to roll to the right. It is not bad, but it is annoying.

Anyone have insight on this? Has anyone put a small trim wedge on the bottom of the heavy wingtip?
 
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With ailerons neutral, stand in front of the wing and sight down the top aft surface of the wing and over the ailerons. Is the right aileron vertically higher than the left? A 1/16” makes a big difference.
 
The info I got from Barrett recommends no less than 25 psi at idle and 60-90 psi for normal operations...

I also have a squawk on my -10.

I spent a huge amount of time getting the flaps, ailerons, and tips lined up and rigged...and I STILL ended up with a heavy right wing. I did a couple minor adjustments, and now it flies fine with flaps 0. When I reflex the flaps, however, it again wants to roll to the right. It is not bad, but it is annoying.

Anyone have insight on this? Has anyone put a small trim wedge on the bottom of the heavy wingtip?


I had some resistance in onee wing that prevented the flap from fully hitting the rear spar, even with significant force. Luckily I noticed it and with some bending and filling, I got it to fully seat against the spar without resistance. It felt like it was stopping at the spar, but it wasn't. These were QB wings. Might be worth checking the left flap. The flap will lift a degree or so in cruise and if the left can't lift like the right, it could cause the heavy right wing.

second step would be to check the aileron hinge height as Bob mentioned.

Larry
 
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Hinge

I put a straight edge down the back side of the wing at both hinge locations for the aileron and bot appear to be the same...
 
Have you checked the engine suction screen? Not the pressure side, but the suction screen in the oil sump. I've noticed these almost never get cleaned out, and I've seen a clean one make an improvement in oil pressure..
 
My RV-10 cabin heat comes from only one muff split front and rear via a Y-connector in the tunnel. Several members here said this would be more than enough. I was a little chilly on the last flight even with the TCW heat servo wide open. See where this is going? De-cowled for an oil change and discovered that the heat selector valve is inop and fully closed. Iv'e been flying awhile with no cabin heat and just imagining it was working a wee bit.

It's nice to imagine how great that cabin heat will be when it's actually turned on!

Bill,
Like you, I have only the right muffler supplying warm air to the entire cabin, via Y connector. Mine is mechanically operated. I have never needed more than 1/3 open. Upon opening it takes a couple of minutes to feel the heat. That was down to -10C OAT. One aspect that I am not sure of is the warm air distribution between front and rear passengers. Have not flown in that cold temps with 4 on board to assess front vs rear heat. I am always amazed how much sunshine heats up the cabin, even in very cold temps!
I have no regrets with this setup.
Johan
 
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