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RV-6A fuel tank

jamjac

I'm New Here
I am trying to remove a leaking fuel tank on an RV-6A. I have removed all the screws in the wing, the fuel fittings and the bolt at the leading edge. It will not move. Am I missing something.

I am an A&P but this is the first time I have worked on an RV to this extent.
Any help is appreciated
 
There is the root fitting At the leading edge in addition to the skin screws and that should be it. Paint Or corrosion? Unless someone ?improved on the plans?. One fuel supply line and vent line. Wire for fuel qty sender
 
I am trying to remove a leaking fuel tank on an RV-6A. I have removed all the screws in the wing, the fuel fittings and the bolt at the leading edge. It will not move. Am I missing something.
I am an A&P but this is the first time I have worked on an RV to this extent.
Any help is appreciated

Two things can make this a difficult procedure. First, as I'm sure aware of, is paint.
The other is that the dimpled screw holes are seated into the countersunk spar. Sometimes these can hold very tightly.
There should be nothing else holding the tank on.
Later models such as the RV-7 & -8 have "Z" brackets bolted to the spar, but unless the builder has modified, the -6 does not have these. If the builder did add these, evidence would be inspections covers on the bottom just aft of the spar.
 
Popsicle sticks to lift countersinks

I had to use popsicle sticks under the back edges, top and bottom, to relieve the countersinks (dimples) from the spar.

Ron
 
Pictures if possible

If possible, could you post some pictures to show what you’ve done from a couple different angles?

If not, I understand. I’m curious as to what you’re looking at and I didn’t build the 6A I’m flying. It has inspection panels underneath.

Thanks,
Pat
 
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Inspection panels for access to aileron bellcranks?

The tanks are attached at the leading edge to the fuselage via an angle bracket (T-405), it sounds like you have taken out that bolt.
 
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I bought some ceder shims at Home Depot, then put some Teflon tape on the thinnest of them. This makes an excellent tool for working the tank skin out of the dimples. The dimples hold the tank incredibly tight.
 
tank removal

Another shim/wedge idea is if you have a granite slab production shop anywhere near you. You can go there and see if they have any plastic horse shoe shaped deck shims. They are designed to a knife point for shimming granite slabs. Very sharp knife point and plastic so no damage and easy to remove. You can tie a string on them to pull back out in slab work.
Not all shops use them so it might not be easy to find them. Amazon does not.
But, I will say Home Depot carries a 1/4" wide 1 1/4" long plastic knife point shim for tile work. A couple hundred in a tub.
I have used them for 40 years in the custom home construction business I retired from.
 
Thanks,
I will check to see if that is what is holding the tank on,

Jamjac

I just reinstalled the right fuel tank on my RV-6. After removing all screws top and bottom as well as fuel fittings and wing fuselage attach bolt I just gave the tank a strong pull and it popped free from the dimples. Be ready to catch the tank. That was the advice from Vans support.
 
Tank removal is made easier if you primarily pull fwd on the tank at the inboard end.
This causes the screw dimples at the outboard end to disengage sequentially from back to front as the tank pivots on the leading edge.
This reduces the force required vs all of the dimples disengaging at the same time.
 
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