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Did I just destroy my vertical stabilizer skin?

Emmitt

Member
For whatever reason, I thought it was ok to dimple this hole with the DRDT-2 clamped to my table positioned UNDER the height of the table and skin. Needless to say, I goofed. :eek:

I've seen a couple of solutions here for people that have had similar hiccups, but I'd like to see what you guys think of mine.

I put a 3 and a 4 rivet next to the hole for size reference, and the third picture is the backside of the skin. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SWw_l143DZnJ-91x3yzZ7NOSVDw-yQ45/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dDdC7zh5wOVHf7jn3MJuQn1ATRyZ-YZY/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VX6BD6cAxax0zgR32pDKtdPe9MOQ_wk7/view?usp=sharing
 
As always, assuming mothership agrees, I don't think one bad hole is enough to require replacement. Two possible options would be just put a rivet in the hole for cosmetic reasons and build on (clean up the hole as best you can and deburr/smooth edges as needed), or do the same with extra match-drilled rivets on one or both sides. The VS skin is very thick and strong, so hard to see how strength would be degraded significantly by one bad rivet. The biggest risk IMO would be cracking which is why you want to really take care with the edges of the hole.

It might be easier to drill up to #30 and use oops rivet or even do a #30 dimple and a size 4 rivet - would be slightly noticeable but after paint you'd have to be looking for it to notice.

Van's customer support line opens at 7:30 Pacific Time. Great folks there. I've had social interactions with them on many occasions.....
 
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You wouldn't be the first person to mess up a skin :eek: if you can't live with it just order another :p and consider it practice!
 
I've still got pieces of my first HS skin in the hangar - I have carved dozens of pieces off of it for various other projects over the years. Having a little extra sheet aluminum on hand will come in real handy when you start the panel and FWF part of the kit.
 
Welcome

Welcome to world of hiding mistakes. Debur it well and press on. Other option is to drill out to #30, debur and press on. Last option is to do one of the above and add rivet to either side of it for strength but only for your own piece of mind - not required. In short press on.
 
Welcome to world of hiding mistakes. Debur it well and press on. Other option is to drill out to #30, debur and press on. Last option is to do one of the above and add rivet to either side of it for strength but only for your own piece of mind - not required. In short press on.

+1

I wouldn't order a new skin. Just add another rivet nearby (mindfull of edge distance) and clean up the hole with bondo or expoxy after it is rivetted.

Larry
 
Thank you all! As you can imagine, all momentum was lost as soon as I messed up. I was completely demoralized, and I called it a day.

I'm trying to keep everything simple and fight my OCD with this build. As long as structural integrity and safety aren't compromised, I'd be happy using an oops rivet or size 4 rivet if it means continuing the build today.
 
Thank you all! As you can imagine, all momentum was lost as soon as I messed up. I was completely demoralized, and I called it a day.

I'm trying to keep everything simple and fight my OCD with this build. As long as structural integrity and safety aren't compromised, I'd be happy using an oops rivet or size 4 rivet if it means continuing the build today.

I used to quit every time I had a mistake, then learned to detect brain fade and changed activities before that happened (mostly:)). You will get there a lot of have taken the same journey.

Yep, talk to Vans, it won't be pristine, but airworthy. Like Bill said, order a new one if you can't live with it. BTDT too.

If you want to see what a #4 looks like, take some scrap, booger the hole identically and take your best shot to repair it. Practice is good.
 
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Mistakes

I put a dent in my vertical stabilizer within the first hour of starting to rivet. I still make mistakes on a regular basis. Sometimes it means I need to stop for the day. Other times I just move on to another section and wait for a response from Van's. If you email the pics to tech support they seem to be pretty quick to get back to you with an answer. I would just move on to another step while you are waiting for an answer. There are plenty of pieces to deburr while waiting.
 
Had a similar issue with the Emp skin. Mothership response was to clean the hole and make two new holes either side half way in-between the original holes. Structurally that's the same. Then fill the hole at the paint shop.

I ended up ordering a new piece with my wing kit as the offending hole was right where I would see it every time I stepped in the plane. ;-)
 
Had a similar issue with the Emp skin. Mothership response was to clean the hole and make two new holes either side half way in-between the original holes. Structurally that's the same. Then fill the hole at the paint shop.

I ended up ordering a new piece with my wing kit as the offending hole was right where I would see it every time I stepped in the plane. ;-)

You were exactly right! If anyone else has this problem in the future, here is a reply and picture!

"Since you will still have a good hole in the flange under the skin, just use the called out rivet in this location. I would add two additional rivet locations as indicated and build on! The addition (as an option) of some ProSeal in the sandwich between the skin and flange would also strengthen this area and prevent any “stress risers”.



ProSeal (now called Tank Sealant at Van’s), was developed for aluminum by Boeing for sealing fuel tanks but has the added benefit of having a tremendous bonding and adhesive force while maintaining resiliency (vibration and stress absorber).



Later on in the build when you get ready for final paint you can at your choosing utilize a quality 2-part auto body filler and sand, feather, and blend this exterior area."

Even included a nice picture!

view
 
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