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Lubricants (other than motor oil)

PandaCub

Active Member
Greetings, all - I did a quick forum search and couldn't really find anything:

1) What are folks using to clean and lubricate the piano wires holding on the cowl? Mine are getting pretty tough to pull out and push back in. I'm thinking a good degreaser and then some kind of lubricant: silicone, lithium grease, or (gasp) WD40?

2). Sometimes my starter just clicks once and doesn't turn over the prop. I may have traced it to the starter gear (aka "Bendix gear") not always engaging with the prop gear. Any recommendations for a lubricant that might help those gear teeth play nicer together?

Many thanks!

-PandaCub
 
1. I use LPS-2 on the hinge pins. A little spray in a paper towel and they come out clean and lubricated.
2. I just replaced my SkyTec starter (80 hours on the engine), it was not engaging during a hot start until the second or third attempt. Lycoming told me this is not uncommon, some stick when hot. Lycoming sent me a new starter (on their dime) and all is well. Before you jump to the starter as the problem, verify the power (and ground) leads tight, and the firewall starter solenoid working. The starter solenoid is cheap enough to just replace to verify.

Carl
 
Greetings, all - I did a quick forum search and couldn't really find anything:

1) What are folks using to clean and lubricate the piano wires holding on the cowl? Mine are getting pretty tough to pull out and push back in. I'm thinking a good degreaser and then some kind of lubricant: silicone, lithium grease, or (gasp) WD40?

2). Sometimes my starter just clicks once and doesn't turn over the prop. I may have traced it to the starter gear (aka "Bendix gear") not always engaging with the prop gear. Any recommendations for a lubricant that might help those gear teeth play nicer together?

Many thanks!

-PandaCub

Lemon Pledge also works good for piano hinges.

Put a drop of Corrosion X on your starter terminals at every wire connection point. It will eliminate one possibility.
 
Pin lube

I've found that it is true about WD40, it becomes sticky over time and doesn't stay slick for lubrication.

I've also tried spray silicone. Spraying it on a rag and then wiping the pins cleans and lubricates them in one step. Silicone can trap some dirt if I fly off of grass or unimproved strips.

Wax is the best. There's different ways to get wax on the pins. Bees' wax, Pledge, bike chain wax, Turtle Wax, etc. Now that I'm waxing the pins I clean them first with degreaser then rub them down with wax.

Wax doesn't attract and hold onto dirt as far as I can tell. I bet I could even use a candle if I really wanted to be thrifty.
 
Boelube for hinge pins

I used Boelube on my -8A hinge pins. Not sure what the formulation is but it looks and feels pretty much like regular candle wax. It is very effective, doesn't attract dirt, and isn't sticky or slimy when you're handling the hinge pins. Boelube also works well for lubricating screws before you insert them for the first time into a new nutplate.
 
I used Boelube on my -8A hinge pins. Not sure what the formulation is but it looks and feels pretty much like regular candle wax. It is very effective, doesn't attract dirt, and isn't sticky or slimy when you're handling the hinge pins. Boelube also works well for lubricating screws before you insert them for the first time into a new nutplate.

That is what we use on all of our aircraft as well.

Dry. wont attract dirt, and isn't messy to apply.

Regular candle wax does work pretty well also if Boelube isn't available.
 
Thanks for the advice, all. I forgot that I do have some Boelube around, so I'll definitely try that next time. For now, cleaning the wires with degreaser and putting on Lemon Pledge/car wax seemed to improve things.

Regarding the starter, I still sometimes get the dreaded "CLICK" when turning the key on my RV-14A's IO-390. Usually happens after stopping to refuel at a strange airport during cross country flights. I see from elsewhere on the forum that I'm not alone in this disturbing trend:

https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=135453&highlight=Starter+gear+lubricant
 
Regarding the starter, I still sometimes get the dreaded "CLICK" when turning the key on my RV-14A's IO-390. Usually happens after stopping to refuel at a strange airport during cross country flights. I see from elsewhere on the forum that I'm not alone in this disturbing trend:

https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=135453&highlight=Starter+gear+lubricant

You are experiencing the dreaded solenoid failure symptoms.
Usually begins to first show up during quick turns (hot) from fuel stops.

Using a lube on it internally will only postpone the inevitable slightly. I recommend you just get a replacement solenoid.
There are a number of threads in the archives discussing the replacement you can by at the auto parts store.
 
1. Boelube
2. Along with the other suggestions, check the crimps on the starter terminals. At one point on my starter the crimp on the short wire going to the integrated solenoid on the starter failed, causing intermittent operation.
 
Door Ease stick for hinge pins

I use the Door Ease stick for the hinge pins...similar to Boelube, it is just just a big chapstick like push tube of wax..I'm using a stick my dad had when I was a kid, probably 50 years old. Lasts forever and no mess, dirt doesn't stick to it.
 
I'm thinking a good degreaser and then some kind of lubricant: silicone, lithium grease, or (gasp) WD40?

WD-40 is not a lubricant. It is a penetrating solution, with volatiles that will evaporate, leaving behind little in the way of lubrication. Use for breaking free 'stuck' screws and nuts. Afterward, clean and lubricate properly.
 
I use some Scotchbrite (green) on the piano wires to clean them and some LPS to lube them. I do this a few times a year.
 
2). Sometimes my starter just clicks once and doesn't turn over the prop. I may have traced it to the starter gear (aka "Bendix gear") not always engaging with the prop gear. Any recommendations for a lubricant that might help those gear teeth play nicer together?

I was experiencing the same starting issue. Swapped out my Odessey PC 680 for an EarthX ETX 900 and still had the same “click just once” issue. People suggested I swap out my starter solenoid. Tried that and now not only does it immediately start cranking, it cranks really, really great! It’s your starter solenoid - replace it.
 
I used Boelube on my -8A hinge pins. Not sure what the formulation is but it looks and feels pretty much like regular candle wax. It is very effective, doesn't attract dirt, and isn't sticky or slimy when you're handling the hinge pins. Boelube also works well for lubricating screws before you insert them for the first time into a new nutplate.

Whale Oil, folks. High tech goes full circle... :)

Look up Cetyl Alcohol (the stuff on the label)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cetyl_alcohol

And we thought Lycomings were antiquated.
 
Thanks again for the advice, gents. I actually have the chance to put this to immediate use, as the dreaded “starter click” has struck again and now I’m stuck in Wichita Falls, TX after a nice 6-hour cross country flight in my RV-14A.

Engine started great this morning, but the trend more often than not is it won't turn over after I land to refuel. Very annoying, as I could otherwise have made it home. Now it’s another night in a hotel.

Based on another thread, I picked up a new BWD S5613 solenoid this morning at Advanced Auto Parts in Inverness, FL. Crossing my fingers it’ll fit on my IO-390 when I open up cowl tomorrow with a local A&P here in Wichita Falls.

Upside is the folks here at KCWC (Kickapoo Downtown airport) are very helpful and friendly. Such vignettes are one of the things I love about GA - but I still long for a reliable start.

Stay tuned!
 
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You've probably heard it before, but

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant.

It was meant as a protective treatment ("WD" stands for "water dispersant" or "displacer" ). It was designed to displace water from parts and assemblies that had become or could become wet and could corrode due to the water intrusion. It will not protect against wear nor provide adequate lubrication for most situations that need a lubricant. It's fine for cleaning and preservation, but do yourself a favor and use a real lubricant when it's called for.


EDIT: haha, just saw the reply from flion up-thread. Definitely you've heard it before!
 
Ahhh, the cost of a good starter vs the cost of a night out.
B&C starter/alt and never look back.
 
Ahhh, the cost of a good starter vs the cost of a night out.
B&C starter/alt and never look back.

Agree 100% and plan to use B&C alternator on my 14, however I think someone (maybe Tim Olson?) tried the B&C starter and it interfered with the snorkel. The new IO-390-EXP119 package has a different snorkel but as tight as everything is I suspect it will have the same issue. It's a shame Skytec won't just fix their quality problems...
 
Ahhh, the cost of a good starter vs the cost of a night out.
B&C starter/alt and never look back.

I went through 3 SkyTec starter solenoids, and 2 starters with their ridiculous heat related sticking issues before Walt replaced my starter with a B&C that works every time.

I’ll never put anything SkyTec on my airplane again...what a complete piece of junk
 
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