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  #1  
Old 05-18-2013, 06:18 PM
dspender dspender is offline
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bay City, MI
Posts: 437
Default Tight rivet location

Just began the empennage. Page 7-8 Fig 3 is Riveting the R-1004 Bottom Rib to the Right skin. The aft most rivet is in a very tight space. I cannot get a bucking back or even no hole squeezer yoke in there. The directions call for no other options than an AD3-3 rivet. However when attaching the Left skin to this Bottom Rib Page 7-9 Step 7 calls for using a CCR264SS3-2 blind rivet in the aft most location. How did you do that aft most rivet in the right skin? Do you or is it allowed to use a blind rivet on each skin at this location?
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  #2  
Old 05-18-2013, 06:55 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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Location: Big Sandy, WY
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A pair of modified vise grips can make a good squeezer for those spots. A little grinding/filing to smooth the serrations and make the jaws parallel at your finished height. You might get to use it a dozen times during the build.
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  #3  
Old 05-18-2013, 07:22 PM
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rotoiti rotoiti is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Bay Area, CA
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We have used a blind rivet for both spots. The problem with this approach is that these blind rivets protrude more than the regular rivets so once you blind rivet the first skin the second blind rivet will not fit. To solve this we have inserted a flat piece of aluminum and hit the already set rivet with a punch through the top rivet hole and into the flat piece of aluminum. That flattened out the shop head a little, just enough to fit another blind rivet on the opposite skin.
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  #4  
Old 05-18-2013, 10:28 PM
P51Matt P51Matt is offline
 
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Location: Lees Summit, MO
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Another way is to take the mandrel out of the rivet and cut the rivet down then just put the mandrel back in.
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  #5  
Old 05-19-2013, 04:48 AM
dspender dspender is offline
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bay City, MI
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Thank you for the suggestions. I am going to search for an appropriate vise grip and see what type of tool I can create. I will search into the mandrel option as well.
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  #6  
Old 05-19-2013, 05:32 AM
Gary 40274 Gary 40274 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Conyers GA
Posts: 348
Default Back rivet

You can also get that back rivet set using a flat wood chisel or equivalent flat metal. Set your assembly on a back rivet plate, put the chisel on top of the shank of the rivet and use your flat rivet set on the chisel just outboard of the aleron, flap and set the rivet.

Gary Specketer
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  #7  
Old 05-19-2013, 09:47 AM
dspender dspender is offline
 
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Location: Bay City, MI
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I tried the vise grip, trimmed away the teeth, but couldn't apply enough even pressure to set a straight rivet. I like the thought of a chisel over the rivet and possibly supported level about an inch from the rivet and drive down on the chisel hoping to compress the rivet.
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  #8  
Old 05-19-2013, 11:58 AM
dspender dspender is offline
 
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Location: Bay City, MI
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I used the back rivet plate, set and wood chisel as suggested and it worked perfectly.
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  #9  
Old 05-22-2013, 08:25 PM
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rvbuilder rvbuilder is offline
 
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Location: Florida
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I used the CCR264553-2 Pop rivet in both places both skins
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Last edited by rvbuilder : 05-22-2013 at 08:29 PM.
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  #10  
Old 05-22-2013, 08:59 PM
rapid_ascent rapid_ascent is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dublin, CA
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I don't remember exactly what I did in that spot, but you should be able to get the rivet in one side and then squeeze with the no hole yoke. The second side is usually the problem. One trick is to pre-squeeze the rivet very slightly. Another idea is to use any metal as a bucking bar. Like a chisel that was suggested. You just have to use it until you can get a larger tool in the space. A back riveting plate can be used if it will fit. If all else fails put a blind rivet in and forge ahead.
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