Tip-up Canopy Frame Questions

I know this topic has been discussed to death, since the first tip-up kit came out!!!! However, I searched the forums, as well as some of the top construction log sites, but could not find the answers to the following:

1. When adjusting the width of the aft part of the canopy frame to fit the fuselage width, what does this mean? I am assuming that it means the outside of the frame should match the outside of the longerons, so that the canopy skin and the fuselage side skins are in line with one another?
2. On one side, the canopy skin hangs a bit lower than the top of the fuselage side skin. On the other side, there is a small horizontal gap between the two.
a. I am guessing that the gap on the one side is not an issue, as it will be covered by the
side skirt?
b. Should I be trimming the canopy skin on the side that is long, so there
is no interference between the canopy skin and the fuselage side skin?
3. Finally, should the bottom of the canopy frame sit directly on the longerons? Mine currently do not. Nor is the gap on the left and right sides the same. If they should, what do I need to do to get them together? If not, is there such a thing as too much gap?

Hey Rich

Let's see if we can help
#1 - The Canopy frame width is the frame width, less the thickness of your plexi and side skirt skins x 2 (for both L&R sides). You will also have to reduce the canopy frame width if you are bonding your plexi canopy to the frame.

#2 a) - With hinge pins installed and after you have temporarily installed the two L&R 1/8" anuminum plates to the top/rear of the longeron, as per instructions, you should find the front canopy side frame raised above the forward longeron by about 1/2" to 3/4" (mine was about an inch) the fitment to the rear of the longeron will be 1/8", as the frame rests on top of the aluminium spacer.

b) Some file this so that the skirt sets flush with the fuse side skins, others set up their frames and skirt sides to run over the sides of the fuse side skins by 1/4 to 1/2".

The frame does not rest on the longeron. The gap is filled by the weather strip at finishing.

email me and I will send you what I did.

Most Tipups. the side skirts not over lap the side skins. Mine do. Plus.. no airleaks. No rain. in the sides.
a little more work but worth the effort.
My gap the length of the longeron is only about 1/8 inch so it was easy to put the same gasket that is called for on the front of the canopy.

I made adjustable stops on the rear of the tipup, to keep both sides the same.

Jack
[email protected]

macrafic said:

I know this topic has been discussed to death, since the first tip-up kit came out!!!! However, I searched the forums, as well as some of the top construction log sites, but could not find the answers to the following:

1. When adjusting the width of the aft part of the canopy frame to fit the fuselage width, what does this mean? I am assuming that it means the outside of the frame should match the outside of the longerons, so that the canopy skin and the fuselage side skins are in line with one another?
2. On one side, the canopy skin hangs a bit lower than the top of the fuselage side skin. On the other side, there is a small horizontal gap between the two.
a. I am guessing that the gap on the one side is not an issue, as it will be covered by the
side skirt?
b. Should I be trimming the canopy skin on the side that is long, so there
is no interference between the canopy skin and the fuselage side skin?
3. Finally, should the bottom of the canopy frame sit directly on the longerons? Mine currently do not. Nor is the gap on the left and right sides the same. If they should, what do I need to do to get them together? If not, is there such a thing as too much gap?

Click to expand...

First read the instructions about 50 times.

After each step I tried tried to have everything aligned - and after the next step it was off again.

1. width - Like Jack said - but don't get in too much of a hurry to set the rivets in the rear hoop. When the plexi gets fitted, you will want to fit the curvature to the roll bar, then (at the same time) fit the width to the fuse. I had to remove my splice plate and adjust.

2. The side skins should have install to match after fitting the plexi. Hard to do. It is not really done, no matter how perfect (or not) until the front skin is on and then riveted.

3. Gap, well, the side skins and plexi should have been fitted with spacers between the longerons and side rails. They should be even. If the plexi has been fitted and is sitting on the fitted and fixed roll bar, then - - (suggestion) I would wait near the end until the front skin is fixed, the roll bar is on, and the rear window is fixed . . . then see what needs to be adjusted. I have the frame finished, painted, roll bar in, plexi fitted, and waiting to do final fit of back edge of tip canopy until the front skin is on - then do the fiberglassing.

I think getting the tip up fitted evenly all around is a bear. Maybe for repeaters it would be more straight forward.

PS I did a lot of refitting, I even welded up holes in the canopy frame and drilled again to get them right. The uneven side gaps was a one reason ( of many, many) why. There is probably no other way to get that right along with an even gap to the longerons at the same time.