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  #1  
Old 03-09-2020, 06:43 PM
Jpm757's Avatar
Jpm757 Jpm757 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Sherman, CT
Posts: 1,059
Default Hangar floor

Looking to pour a concrete floor for a 50x50 hangar here in the northeast. Any thoughts, ideas or recommendations would be appreciated. Thickness, radiant heat etc:
Thanks
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RV6 #20477 completed 1991 sold.
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1941 J3 Cub skis, floats.
Current Project Javron Super Cub
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Last edited by Jpm757 : 03-09-2020 at 07:00 PM. Reason: Ad
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  #2  
Old 03-09-2020, 06:47 PM
FLY6 FLY6 is offline
 
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Location: Burlington On. Ca
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Default Insulation

Consider insulation under the pad if you plan to heat the hangar at some point.
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  #3  
Old 03-09-2020, 07:01 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
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Location: Sunman, IN
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Default concrete

If you a going with radiant heat, put the tubing in; consider multiple zones in case one starts to leak...
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  #4  
Old 03-09-2020, 07:24 PM
Robb Robb is offline
 
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Default

Run 1/2 inch PEX tubing on 8 inch centers maximum of 250 feet in length. One you do that you will know how many loops and the size of the manifold. Use the type with an 02 barrier. Make sure to install the insulation on top of the wire mesh and anchor it with Zip ties. I would use a nice wall mount condensing boiler like a Lochinvar or similar. I do them all the time .www.brewerhvac.com
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  #5  
Old 03-09-2020, 07:29 PM
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Ed_Wischmeyer Ed_Wischmeyer is offline
 
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Location: Savannah, GA
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Default

Don't know how feasible this is in your part of the world, but I would paint the hangar floor a light color so that you can find parts that get dropped and unerringly roll into unlikely places.
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  #6  
Old 03-09-2020, 07:36 PM
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Freakshow108 Freakshow108 is offline
 
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Location: Eatonville WA
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Default Radiant

X3 on the radiant. At a minimum put the tube in the concrete. Definite yes on the insulation (foam Board ). Tube is cheap foam board not so much but well worth it. I do it for a living as well and could help with design if needed.
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  #7  
Old 03-09-2020, 07:53 PM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
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Above it was said to put the insulation on top of the wire mesh. That is incorrect. The insulation board needs to be BELOW the concrete. The wire mesh needs to be IN the concrete for strength and to keep the concrete level when it cracks. The pex pipe goes in the concrete and if you want to fasten it to the wire mesh, that would work. The way I normally did it was level the gravel, cover with a bit of sane to make it really flat, put foil faced insulation board down - foil up, attached the pex to the foam board, then either used WWM or the fiberglass additive in the concrete. (looks like a dog hair finish)

Just make sure you use WWM in the middle of the concrete, fiberglass additive, or rebar in the concrete. You will be sorry if you dont.
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  #8  
Old 03-10-2020, 03:32 AM
RV10Man RV10Man is offline
 
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Make it bigger, lol.
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  #9  
Old 03-10-2020, 08:13 AM
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Jpm757 Jpm757 is offline
 
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Recommended thickness?
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RV6 #20477 completed 1991 sold.
RV7 #72018 N767T first flight 11/21/2017
(KOXC)Oxford, CT, (0NY0)North Creek, NY.
1941 J3 Cub skis, floats.
Current Project Javron Super Cub
Thank You Doug!
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  #10  
Old 03-10-2020, 09:25 AM
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Mike S Mike S is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockwoodrv9 View Post
Above it was said to put the insulation on top of the wire mesh. That is incorrect. The insulation board needs to be BELOW the concrete. The wire mesh needs to be IN the concrete for strength and to keep the concrete level when it cracks. The pex pipe goes in the concrete and if you want to fasten it to the wire mesh, that would work. The way I normally did it was level the gravel, cover with a bit of sane to make it really flat, put foil faced insulation board down - foil up, attached the pex to the foam board, then either used WWM or the fiberglass additive in the concrete. (looks like a dog hair finish)

Just make sure you use WWM in the middle of the concrete, fiberglass additive, or rebar in the concrete. You will be sorry if you dont.
Rocky hit it pretty good.

There is a much better product than the fiberglass additive (trade name is Fibermesh) that will even take the place of WWM ( welded wire mesh) or rebar.

Look into https://www.helixsteel.com/ There are other similar products but I am not familiar with them.

I would recommend putting in the floor insulation and heat tubing, small part of the overall cost. You can decide later if you want to add the boiler and assorted hardware to complete the radiant floor heat.

If you do put in the tubing, be sure your concrete finisher doesnt saw cut the slap (for crack control) too deep. With the Helix you may not need to do crack control efforts.
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