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  #91  
Old 12-26-2015, 07:59 AM
KHeidorn KHeidorn is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Heber City, UT
Posts: 123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post

How did you cowl install go?
One experienced builder expressed displeasure with the design on his build site.... just wondering how others feel about it (and glad to hear you like teh canopy design... a lot of effort went into making it both a better design and easier to assemble than the older kits)
I have experience with auto body repair. so, adjusting and aligning up gaps on adjacent panels is not new to me. Even without the experience I think the instructions cover it well. The scribe lines are very close and the cowl halves seem to be of very nice quality.

I did have to reshape the front left corner to fix some alignment issues. I don't know if that was my fault or the cowl design. I ended up having to lay some fiberglass on the inside to build up the reshaped area.

I will be interested to see the flap position sensor kit from Vans. I didn't mind fabricating my own. Since I was waiting for the finish kit it gave me something to do.
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  #92  
Old 12-26-2015, 09:06 AM
jswareiv jswareiv is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 473
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Originally Posted by KHeidorn View Post

Cowl is all fitted. I will start on the gear leg close out fairings tomorrow.

Another week and it will be time to start painting again.
Hey Ken,

I did the leg fairings and not bad at all. How are you going to jack up the plane to check the wheel pants for alignment? I thought the only way to do it would be to attach a jack to the wings where the hold down rings go. Of course I'm working in my garage, so the wings won't go on until I'm ready to move it to the hangar. Your paint looks great.
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First RV-14 Flight 04/17/2016
Serial #140087, N214SW - Sold
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  #93  
Old 12-26-2015, 11:20 AM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron B. View Post
Scott, my engine cowl install is complete and ready for painting next week. I had no issues with install at all.
The only minor issue I had with the canopy was that the left front corner for about four inches up and six inches back , protruded out a tiny bit. Other than that it fit well.
For those of us nearing completion of the kits received and your announcement that you will not be doing the avionics package , it would be very helpful to know a more detailed description of what will be available in future kits? Like the flap position sensor, I now know that I do not need to design a system. Van's is much better at designing than I am and I assume KHeidon would have rather purchased your kit than design and wire his own had he known Van's would be offering one.
That announcement you refer to has a list of all sub-kits that will be available (including the flap position sensor).
The RV-14 has always been promoted as a complete kit (like the RV-12). So even with different vendors handling the actual panel kit and related equip., the intent has always been to finish out everything else.... everything from position and landing lights to pre-wired stick grips (and everything in between).
I realize there has been some frustration when builders are able to make progress way beyond the pace that these kits come out, but everything Van's has said would be supplied has been (or soon will be). If a builder decides to move ahead on their own and then a kit comes available for work that they did, I would assume they somewhat would have expected that to happen.
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Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.

Scott McDaniels
Hubbard, Oregon
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop
FAA/DAR
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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  #94  
Old 12-26-2015, 11:50 AM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KHeidorn View Post
I have experience with auto body repair. so, adjusting and aligning up gaps on adjacent panels is not new to me. Even without the experience I think the instructions cover it well. The scribe lines are very close and the cowl halves seem to be of very nice quality.

I did have to reshape the front left corner to fix some alignment issues. I don't know if that was my fault or the cowl design. I ended up having to lay some fiberglass on the inside to build up the reshaped area.

I will be interested to see the flap position sensor kit from Vans. I didn't mind fabricating my own. Since I was waiting for the finish kit it gave me something to do.
Glad to hear good experiences with the cowl from a couple of builders.

The cowl halves as molded will match up very well if positioned properly, but it is easy to get a slight mismatch at the very front, because just the slightest distortion in shape (from pulling at one point or another) will tend to move these points out of alignment (that is true for all of the RV models).
The most important detail when installing an RV cowl is to resist pulling it to a position you want, that it doesn't desire to be in when not being forced. This will have a huge influence on how hard it is to get pins in and out, and how well the cowl holds up to vibration over time (broken hinge loops and rivets, etc.).
The evidence of a well installed cowl is that with the top cowl sitting in place with no pins installed, you can't tell. The top cowl will lay in place fully aligned with all of the gaps looking the same as they are when the pins are in place (with the exception of the top rear.... it will tend to slide fwd very slight and make that gap slightly bigger.
y point in this is to say it is much better to fix mis-alignment issues by adding a little bit of Fglass and some sanding, than it is to force the cowl into the position you want while drilling the attach holes.
The process detailed in the plans is designed in such a way to try and help with this, and to prevent people from over trimming which will temp them to pull the cowl to a position that will fix their excessive gap.

Tension within the cowl will make pins harder to insert or remove.
.125 pins (just like on the RV-10) are being used around the back because it maintains a much better fit and prevents the poofing out that that can happen if the .090 pins are substituted (like is used on the other models).
If all of the install details are followed (shape adjustments done to the top aft hinges, pins pre-shaped to match the curve of the firewall, proper end treatment done on the pin, etc.), the .125 pins go in and out nicely. It is a bit more of a challenge with the tail dragger because the nose sits so high... I have to use a small step stool to reach inside to remove or install the pins (I am about 5' 9".
As a standard maint item, I lightly polish cowl pins on all our airplanes every time I remove them for an oil change. Then I rub them with Boelube. They always go in and out nicely.
If an RV-14 builder ends up with pins that after flying for a few hours are just too tight, they can substitute .090 pins (which is probably a good plan, so as to relieve some of the stress that is likely built into the cowl).

The Van's designed sensor installation is not much different from yours.
The sensor mounts on the upright channel at the back of the flap motor enclosure, with a wire connecting to a flap torque tube arm. The main diff is that the wire is isolated from contact with the steel arm so that it wont wear over time from vibration, etc.
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Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.

Scott McDaniels
Hubbard, Oregon
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop
FAA/DAR
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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  #95  
Old 12-26-2015, 02:59 PM
jswareiv jswareiv is offline
 
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Location: New Orleans, LA
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Default Cowl Fitting

Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
Glad to hear good experiences with the cowl from a couple of builders.
I had some expert help, but my cowl fits beautifully and took about 1 ? days to get perfect, which included cutting and fitting the backplate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
It is a bit more of a challenge with the tail dragger because the nose sits so high... I have to use a small step stool to reach inside to remove or install the pins (I am about 5' 9".)
I am 5'7" and change and will have to carry a step stool in the plane. Wow, it really sits up high. I will probably go with the .090 because one side, co-pilot side just does not want to go in. I can get the longer one in, but the other side will not go all the way. I've used a ton of bolube, but it gets stuck. I had considered installing a little light by the hinge bracket to be able to see the holes to insert the pins, instead of using a flashlight every time. I've also considered making some access from the top middle of the cowl, I think the 12 does that, but didn't really want to add any other holes.
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First RV-14 Flight 04/17/2016
Serial #140087, N214SW - Sold
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  #96  
Old 12-26-2015, 03:06 PM
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RV3bpilot RV3bpilot is offline
 
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Location: New Ulm, Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KHeidorn View Post


Very good paint job, I'm envious! Wow very good....
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New Ulm, MN 56073
RV3b N219BB
420 hours and counting
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  #97  
Old 12-26-2015, 09:46 PM
KHeidorn KHeidorn is offline
 
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Location: Heber City, UT
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Originally Posted by jswareiv View Post
Hey Ken,

I did the leg fairings and not bad at all. How are you going to jack up the plane to check the wheel pants for alignment? I thought the only way to do it would be to attach a jack to the wings where the hold down rings go. Of course I'm working in my garage, so the wings won't go on until I'm ready to move it to the hangar. Your paint looks great.
I installed the wheel pants before the engine. I used my engine hoist hooked to the engine mount to raise the plane off the floor, getting the tail high enough to be level was the tricky part.
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Debur..Dimple..Rivet..Repeat...

"You're never too old to learn something stupid." - unknown
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  #98  
Old 12-26-2015, 10:12 PM
KHeidorn KHeidorn is offline
 
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Location: Heber City, UT
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Originally Posted by control View Post
Looks like we will have several first engine start and first flight reports soon
I do enjoy the building but I must say that I am envious of your progress
I am thinking maybe June for the first flight. Whole lot of variables though, don't hold me to it.
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Debur..Dimple..Rivet..Repeat...

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  #99  
Old 12-26-2015, 10:23 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jswareiv View Post
I had considered installing a little light by the hinge bracket to be able to see the holes to insert the pins, instead of using a flashlight every time.
No need to have a light to see. With just a little practice you can learn to have a finger tip on the tip of the wire..... find the end hinge loop and slip it in.

After the airplane gets a few flight hours, the pins usually wear in and get easier to remove and insert.
__________________
Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.

Scott McDaniels
Hubbard, Oregon
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop
FAA/DAR
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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  #100  
Old 12-27-2015, 07:26 AM
PTI Paint PTI Paint is offline
 
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Posts: 13
Default Technique

Can I ask what if anything was the most important/difficult part of the painting process?

Last edited by PTI Paint : 12-27-2015 at 07:28 AM.
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