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Rib Work

sloengineer

Active Member
I wanted to share a few improvised tools I used for rib shaping. I wanted a nice round where I had to grind the VS ribs to fit the skin. I used the side of a #40 drill bit to make a stress relieving round. Then used a little 240 grit 3M wet or dry sandpaper wrapped around a hacksaw blade to get in those hard to reach areas.

I’m sure I’m not the first to think of this, but I didn’t see it anywhere else on here.

Cheers!
 

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paper

I also started out using wet and dry paper, thinking I was onto a good thing, but was warned off using it because the silicon carbide grit can lead to corrosion in aluminum. (Same applies if using a graphite pencil for marking, it's a no-no.)
But good idea to use the hacksaw blade as a carrier with its flexibility!
And keep on posting, it's a good way to get feedback and share learnings! :)
 
but was warned off using it because the silicon carbide grit can lead to corrosion in aluminum.

Interesting. I guess I'll change over to one of the synthetic media papers. Thanks for the heads up! I'll make sure to wipe these parts down good before assembly.
 
An "ignition point file" works well in these areas, then buff out with small piece of maroon Scotchbrite pad. The files are very thin and narrow. Might find them in auto parts stores.
 
An "ignition point file" works well in these areas, then buff out with small piece of maroon Scotchbrite pad. The files are very thin and narrow. Might find them in auto parts stores.

Good idea. I'll have to look for one of those at the auto parts store. I had some chain saw files, but they were too big.
 
Note to not file in a 'cross cut' motion. May look better but cracks may propagate from the tiny sideways scratches just the same.
 
polishing the corners

OK I didn't invent this idea but it sure is cheap and works pretty good. Yes I've used the files of all sorts.
Chain saw files do a great job on the inside corners. But these are cheap and very useful.Take a 2" Scotchbrite wheel cut it into 8 segments with your metal cutting bandsaw. Then cut the segments in half. equals 16 points. Screw one onto a sheet rock screw you have ground the head off of and screw it into the back of the wedge.
Now, if you want a longer screw you will need to glue some washers onto the shaft so the screw won't continue to screw into the wedge.
Now it has a shaft. Chuck it up into a drill (slow) and grind the wobbly points off at your bench grinder.
I use a metal cutting band saw to cut the Scotchbrite wheels.
16 points and a few screws and those rough corners and smooth.
Enjoy Art
 

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What I do

I run the 3" scotchbrite on a mandrel cut down to 1" diameter, and 2" wheel on a mandrel cut down to the metal locking collet. This way the disk can be edge run into nooks and crannies as well as worked around curves with much greater ease than rubber mandrels that match the size of the wheel. Once you try it, you'll like it.
 
I run the 3" scotchbrite on a mandrel cut down to 1" diameter, and 2" wheel on a mandrel cut down to the metal locking collet.

That way the edge would flex more. Good idea. I actually took a notch out of a scotchbrite backing disk when I let it go over a sharp edge. I wish I'd have kept it and cut it down like you said.
 
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