What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Fix paint runs

That is an interesting video, I'm getting ready to paint my tail next week. I hope I don't get any runs but if I do I'll try this.
 
While I have used 320 directly on a run with my finger or a stick as a block, this guys procedure looks scary. Running a 320 grit block directly over the clear (notice that he makes full passes eventhough most of the filler is gone) is dangerous unless you have enough coats to ensure you don't break through. That will ruin your day as an amatuer painter. Also, getting the clear too thin will greatly reduce it's UV protection and create problems down the road. Just like the guys that over buff a care and 5 years later you can tell exactly where they overdid it.

I ultimately settled on using razor blades on runs with a scraping motion, usually after at least 24 hours of curing. Many different ways to do this, but the key is protecting the clear next to the run.

Also, you will find a ring around the run that is thinner than the rest of the clear due to surface tension. Be careful as you try to level it all out. Best to leave that depression alone if you only have 2 coats.

The procedure in this video would be the very last suggestion that I would offer for dealing with runs, especially for someone new to painting. Be carefull. It would be especially dangerous on a curved surface.

Larry
 
Last edited:
Runs

Hopefully you don't spray that many runs. He also has some big time orange peel to fix.
Look up Dan Horton's thread on Cut & Buff. He has a genious trick for removing runs. Takes no time at all and removes the run without touching adjacent paint.
Short version...
Place a new singke edge razor in the scraper tool. Make a mental note or mark it top/bottom.
Drag the top side of the blade accross a sheet of 400 grit at a 45 degree angle a dozen times. It creates a microscopic curl o the metal.
Scrape the run top to bottom with the blade oriented correctly top/bottom. Watch the magic. It's pretty amazing and only takes a few passes. Wet sand 1000, 1500, 2000 then cut and buff. Beautiful.
 
+1 on the razor blade. Takes some practice but quick and easy.
Not that I have ever had a run :)
 
Hopefully you don't spray that many runs. He also has some big time orange peel to fix.
Look up Dan Horton's thread on Cut & Buff. He has a genious trick for removing runs. Takes no time at all and removes the run without touching adjacent paint.
Short version...
Place a new singke edge razor in the scraper tool. Make a mental note or mark it top/bottom.
Drag the top side of the blade accross a sheet of 400 grit at a 45 degree angle a dozen times. It creates a microscopic curl o the metal.
Scrape the run top to bottom with the blade oriented correctly top/bottom. Watch the magic. It's pretty amazing and only takes a few passes. Wet sand 1000, 1500, 2000 then cut and buff. Beautiful.

I've done a variation of this with good success: take the single edge blade and tilt it to one side a bit and run it once or twice along something steel (screwdriver shank, vice, drill bit, whatever). This makes the burr. Now bend the blade opposite from the burr. You don't need much, maybe 1/8" total bend. This keeps you from digging in the corners into paint. Scrape until the run is mostly gone. From there you can work with sandpaper to blend the run then buff and polish.

I've removed several runs and dust nibs this way. Holding the blade in your hand also gives you good feel for what the scraper is doing.
 
Back
Top