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Journey Of A Lifetime (long)

Day 7. Barrow to Kotzebue.

Off Wiley Post-Will Rogers Memorial and I am a bit geographically confused. Is it pure Arctic Ocean coastline or it's Chukchi Sea? Surely not Beaufort.





A dead whale and no polar bears. Not Beaufort Sea definitely.





Unintentionally I flushed the whole haulout of walruses off their beach. The cloud layer was kind of low and it was too late to divert. The ocean looked boiling I reduced the power and quietly flew away. Sorry walruses. Wasn't my intent.





Skies finally cleared and temperature raised to mid sixties after I passed Wainwright PAWI.





Time for lunch.





After lunch I picked up 163rd meridian and slid down cutting western corner of treeless Brooks Range.








Red Dog mine.





Noatak River.





A bit short of 3 hours flight time I am in Kotzebue PAOT.





Topped off by Bering Air at $9 per gallon had a little talk with staff and up for the next even more exciting leg...
 
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Day 7. Serpentine Hot Spring.

It was a perfect afternoon. After Kotzebue I followed Norton Sound coast southbound. An island of puffins thousands of them live here. Don't come close.





My next stop was Serpentine Hot Springs which is very close to CIVED intersection. Forest Service leveled a decent landing spot in the heart of Bering Land Bridge Preserve. They also built a bunkhouse and a toilet. The strip is kind of short but there are unobstructed approaches and its surface is quite hard. After aerial inspection and a roll on mains I slammed my trusty girl against the planet and she stopped on a dime.





The bunkhouse was occupied but I didn't see any hikers just their belongings.








The water in the springs was mighty hot! How the heck anybody wants to dip in nearly boiling water? I couldn't even hold my hand there.





Tasty wild blueberries. Larger and sweeter then Walmart's...





Surreal landscape I hiked for 30 minutes remembering a memo about grizzlies.





Inspected the runway and flew out.








Shishmarev Island is my next stop...
 
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Day 7. From Shishmarev to Palin's Backyard

... on the way from Serpentine Hot Springs to Shishmarev Island I spotted a herd of animals.





I got a bit closer. Muskoxen! First I thought they are totally indifferent they didn't run and they didn't move much. But when I looked closer at the picture and read a bit about them I see they are in a defensive position. They just don't know where this whistling is coming from...






Shishmarev Island was just for the logbook. I "collect" islands visited. This island has a huge airport and they are expanding it even more. Nothing is listed as an attraction here and I don't know anybody. In-n-out.





Next waypoint was Little Diomede a tiny island in Bering Strait a fraction of a mile from Russian border.





This is the Little Diomede to my right.




To my left is Ratmanova Island there is a cross on top of the island. Farther away you can see Dezhneva Cape and Uelen on continental Russia. Now I can brag I've been in Sarah Palin's backyard can I get another free beer?





I wondered around the island a bit quite an interesting place. There are emergency landing sites all over you can even plop it on top of the arctic mesa if motor quits.








I crossed Bering Strait eastbound then flew by Tin City LRSS.




That thing has some power.


 
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Night by the cemetery on Day 7.

Next stop planned to be Nome and I hoped there will be a room at a hotel for me. Three days ago was nothing and two ago was all booked. I had a backup plan in case I am out of luck at Nome.




The greatest daily run was ending or so I thought.





Nome a beautiful place no wonder everybody goes there.











I landed, FSS called fuel truck for me and I run all hotels' numbers again. No vacancies and I am pretty fatigued. To take off and follow plan B was a mistake I should have just stayed at Nome and figure out where to have some rest. Anyway, I head to Unalakleet PAUN. Good weather has come to an end a gusty winds picked up and by the time I reached Unalakleet it was howling. The airport has two intersecting runways and it wasn't a big deal to plant the plane on the ground. It wasn't Tampa. The only hotel in town was unattended I spoke to the owner days ago and was told they always have rooms.





I walked to town doors locked nobody around. Neighbors unaware where the owner is. A lot of activity is going there. Tons of ATVs, cars, not so sober indigenous population. No phone service. The only safe place was the airport but all buildings were locked tight. So I tied down, unloaded most of my gear, wrapped it up with plastic and secured under the plane. I leveled off the floor under the rudder pedals with my bags, assumed nearly fetal position and slept in my airplane.
In two-three hours when I got cold I cranked the engine run it for 10-15 minutes to produce some heat and snoozed again. There wasn't a good sleep in that spooky place near the cemetery. :D


 
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Vlad,

Any brand, anytime. You are always welcome at my house for a free beer or two, or .....
 
What an Adventure!

I am enjoying this blog. A couple posts have gotten my heart rate up! So glad you were able to complete this trip safely. Looking forward to the rest of the story :)
 
A radio comes alive a bushy Cessna in opposite direction. Hi guys how it looks up there? Bad we couldn't make it through the pass they said. What are you up to? I am an experimental trying to make it to Galbraith Lake. Don't even try I doubt you can even make the shelf... unless you go IFR... Hmmm the shelf? what shelf?




Then it clicked. Chandalar Shelf Airport 5CD.







I've been there! Stopped for a potty break while driving even farther north while on a caribou hunt September 1995ish. Man that is one isolated place.
 
Journey of a Lifetime

Thanks for the photo of Kotzebue, my cousin Rod is the H.S. principal there. Believe he flies commercially to Kavalina to get out further down to Anchorage when on break. Said kids can't go out for recess in Spring, as the Polar bears come out. I'll copy photo + send to him, appreciated.
 
Hey, I recognize the Diomedes! I haven't visited them- have only seen them through binoculars, but I've spent some time a couple of times on a teeny speck of land to their southeast, called Fairway Rock.

Enjoying the life vicarious, thanks more than you know for this thread!
 
AK at 400 KTAS

Unusual end of Day 7 :D

Vlad, looks like an Epic!
Lots of AK memories for me as well...
Thanks for sharing!
V/R
Smokey

PS: Many moons ago I gave a deserving crew chief an F-16D (2 seat) incentive ride while deployed to Eielson AFB in Fairbanks. I told him "this is your ride, what would you like to do?" His answer: See Alaska! All of it! (as much as 11,500 pounds of gas will allow). OK then, we will try...
It was Epic...
 
OK, you get a 6 pack from me for having to sleep in your plane to get the pictures. Dude!

Nome%20-%201.jpg
 
Hey, I recognize the Diomedes! I haven't visited them- have only seen them through binoculars, but I've spent some time a couple of times on a teeny speck of land to their southeast, called Fairway Rock.

Enjoying the life vicarious, thanks more than you know for this thread!

That's one impressive rock Lars. It's pretty steep how did you climb it?





Vlad, looks like an Epic!
Lots of AK memories for me as well...
Thanks for sharing!
V/R
Smokey

PS: Many moons ago I gave a deserving crew chief an F-16D (2 seat) incentive ride while deployed to Eielson AFB in Fairbanks. I told him "this is your ride, what would you like to do?" His answer: See Alaska! All of it! (as much as 11,500 pounds of gas will allow). OK then, we will try...
It was Epic...

Glad to bring Eielson memories Ray. On that amount of gas I could turn around equator. :D

OK, you get a 6 pack from me for having to sleep in your plane to get the pictures. Dude!

We are even Steve. I owed you some for the bearings. :D
 
Day 8. Divergent

Unalakleet morning started early. I desperately needed a telephone. First person showed up at a Bering outfit around 7:30 but they are opening at 8. It appeared to be a long day. I bought couple gallons of gas to top off the gent at the counter was trying to give me more change then I paid. They don't have a knack for math in Unalakleet he was glad to get his seventy bucks back. A call to Flight Service yielded what I expected. VFR not recommended icing starts at 10,000 feet all the way down to my next planned destination Cold Bay PACD. Another lesson learned when FSS tells you something you don't want to hear you better listen. Otherwise you will end up like myself 200 NM off course and nearly 300 NM short of your destination.





Here I am sucking oxygen and trying to catch an iPhone Shuttle on 123.45 to use their radar. No joy.








I knew the symptoms of frozen elevators so once in a while I shake the ice off and don't trust the airspeed indicator.





After 4.5 hours of dodging clouds and running low on O2 I ended up in Illiamna Lake PAIL.






The place is so busy and commercially oriented I couldn't find any spot to make a call. Verizon had no service there. If you are a recreational flyer and didn't prearrange your visit don't go there unless you are critical on fuel. I was.





There is no public restroom either you have to find a corner on a relatively exposed field. I learned that a pass toward Anchorage near Summit Lake was closed. I still had a bit of oxygen left so I hopped Chigmit Mountain Range then skimmed the tops over Cook Inlet toward Palmer. The Anchorage Class Charlie is a busy airspace I am wondering why it's not a Class B?





Civilized and peaceful Palmer was my reward for the day. I met an RV4 driver who flies Denali tours and is based at Talkeetna. I talked to somebody else then to two other guys... Finally a kind soul (it was the airport superintendent) gave me a short ride to a hotel.





There was that pretty Russian girl at the restaurant called Marina. We spoke some Russian automatically switching to English on topics we couldn't explain in mother tongue. Like what is an experimental aircraft...




I ate something and I drank a bit. After that I went to my room, dropped dead and slept for 10 hours.
 
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Thank you Vlad. Your stories and inspirational pictures are an inspiration to us all. Looking forward to hearing about the rest of your journey.

I know you passed us by this time, but keep us in mind on one of your future journeys. We will make it worth your while.
 
That's one impressive rock Lars. It's pretty steep how did you climb it?

It was quite a scramble, especially with slippery puffin guano everywhere. But that was over 30 years ago, when I was... ahem... more capable.

If you can include KDWA on your route, you have a comfortable place for the night and all the beer (or any other beverage) you can wish for. I'll even fire up the Weber and provide you something to wash down.
 
Amazing

Polishing off almost the entire rim of Alaska in only a couple of days?? In a little RV-9A aircraft? Who knew it was so easy? Just kidding, what a daring, inspirational adventure, a wild run. Great to have someone show how to stretch the limits. Sure glad the motor didn't quit over one of those isolated arctic beaches with hungry polar bears on the prowl for whale meat or whatever flesh they could get their teeth on. Thanks for sharing Vlad, I'm loving it.
 
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Vlad,
I visited Unalakleet back in '98 and got to see part of the Iditarod race while there. Never been there during the Summer though. I'm sure you're having a great time up there. Thanks for inspiring us all with your journey!
 
This has been better than a James Bond movie, inspirational and enjoyable.
My hats off to you and I have a case of beer of your choosing anytime you are in the area
 
Day 9. Exiting Alaska.

Thanks guys for nice comments. I am glad I brought back your good memories of the past. :)


... it's time to move on. Palmer, AK is a great stop for a weary traveler. Lodging and food in walking distance from the airport. $5 for overnight parking well worth it.




I decided to track the Highway again.




The longest runway ever built. Motorists are not that speedy here and there are not many of them. Visibility on the nose is great as well :)













 
Day 9. Matanushka Charm and Punches of Tazlina.

The Tour of the Glaciers started with Matanushka. Beautiful place the ride was very smooth.





I reached abeam Finland Peak and turned around.








I landed at Tazlina airport to regroup.





After that I tried to fly the valley of Tazlina Lake and the glacier.





Over the lake the turbulence was so bad I had trouble to keep wings level. I entered the valley it was blowing in all directions I immediately turned around.




Till next time Tazlina.


 
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Day 9. Nabesna Grandeur and Gulkana Hospitality

Nabesna tour was next. It was the biggest glacier I've visited (out of 4 I've flown over).










Passed by Wrangell Mountains.





Stopped at Gulkana Airport PAGK for fuel and food. The gas is relatively cheap $6.15 per Alaska standards. The fridge was stocked with good food not just snacks.



I called CANPASS, relaxed for half an hour and started moving toward Canadian AOE.

Beaver Creek CYXQ had a customs outpost next to it but officers were busy and nobody came to me.





I stretched my legs cleaned all trash from the airplane and stocked it in a bear protected container by the airport terminal. Quite a contraption is that container I can tell you.




One more stop then another one and I will be in Atlin, BC for the night.
 
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I have to say Vlad's and others' trip reports have gone a long way to getting my motivation back to building. I started back in 2012 but other things came up, including a medical situation that threatened my medical but it was resolved. I've been getting back into building the past few weeks on the empennage. Fortunately, I already have the wing kit so there'll be no loss in momentum.

Thank you all! :)

Cheers!
 
Day 9. The Areharts.

Greg Arehart is a Geology Professor with a prominent university. He built his own aircraft RV-9A and made numerous modifications to it. His build was a great inspiration and help to me during 2006-2011. Greg lives and teaches in Reno NV and goes to his log cabin in British Columbia when not in lecture hall. He designed and built the cabin himself I visited him during my Alaska-2014 stint and had a great time. On this round he invited me again. Buzz the cabin he said we come and pick you up. To buzz?!! You said that Greg!


... I landed at Burwash CYDB for gas then explored the vicinities.




Greg's base Atlin CYSQ is an easy 2 hour hop from Burwash with great views along the Alaska Highway. Here I am at Atlin with the sunset.





It's not easy to spot their cabin but I have right coordinates this time.





The place is very remote and there is no telephone service. I guess that's what Professor Arehart wants. To be out of civilization for those several enjoyable weeks.





I found the retreat and Julia waved to me.





By the time I tied my airplane down Greg was entering the airport grounds. We drove via wilderness to his cabin and had a good conversation. He made a lot of improvements to the guest cabinette. Now it has a real bed with very comfortable mattress and unlimited running water.









The Areharts built their cabin on a rock. They are self sufficient running on solar power.





That's what they see every morning.





Local bears are not big fans of Greg's place. Guess why?





The Professor is a trove of local knowledge and an encyclopedia of destinations. He always advises me on the best spots to land and explore.
A little interrogation opened up so many local spots again I will be following Greg's directions nearly all day 10. Thank you Greg and Julia I will be back in 2018.
 
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Day 10. Stratovolcano Aerial Tour

Sporty Professor cooked the breakfast and let me go.




I had full gas and was able to talk Greg into taking some of my gear I don't need to conserve baggage space and weight. I can't believe how much I shed.





I was following a VFR route depicted on Canadian charts which brought me to some very picturesque places. Stratovolcano complex Mt. Edziza being one of them.





Eve's Cone erupted 600 years ago.








The stratovolcano is over 9,000 feet high and if you explore it from the air make sure you carry enough energy and power to compensate the drafts. Know where the wind is coming from. Don't get too close to caldera either better use you camera zoom. It could get bumpy even in the morning. But you will be rewarded with captivating sights.




Bob Quinn Lake CBW4 was a rest stop. Years ago I met a helicopter pilot who flew for an oil company and he mentioned this place. Long and wide but very rarely used runway. When I landed and looked at my wheel pants they were all green. A sprouts of very tall but soft plant were growing in the midst of the runway.





I walked around. Pretty place indeed but local mosquitos quickly evicted me from there.





CYXT Terrace, British Columbia will be my next stop. The airport has a restaurant in the terminal and I am already getting hungry.






 
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Day 10. Via Terrace to Oweekeno Nation.

Another 1.8 hours enjoying the stunning beauty of British Columbia.




The first paved runway after 10 unimproved strips. I wonder how it would feel to be back on hard concrete. Terrace CYXT a nice friendly place.









The fueler complained it's getting hot. I told him I can take heat over cold any day he wondered why. Terrace has a commuter service and its little terminal was packed with passengers. A restaurant was busy too. They had a good split pea soup and they accepted Yankee Roubles as well. A place to bookmark. Loaded with calories I am up again.




I have about an hour and a half to enjoy the scenery before it gets blanketed with clouds. There is a pretty spot on the way south. I marked it two years ago but being on ATC leash was unable to visit.




Rivers Inlet peoples live there. There is a path to the village but I didn't go. It was very windy that day and the woods were too thick to walk through without AK47. I took couple of "been there" pictures and quickly evaporated.









Another 1.4 hours to CYBL Campbell River. I am on top of the cloud deck. Somewhere down there is Bella Bella a beautiful island I was planning to stop by. An IFR traffic goes in and out of it every 10 minutes or so but I am not equipped (and able). Jealous a bit I am peeling an egg for a snack.



 
Day 10. Back to CONUS.

I took a little sightseeing detour by Vancouver waiting for a storm to pass Campbell River CYBL. Wonderful sights but both of my cameras refused to focus. I was too busy to pull the smartphone out...







20 minutes later after storm dissipated I landed at Campbell River.



Parked on the grass sorted out all my calls and flight plan. Still need to kill about 30 minutes to make a 2 hour US Customs requirement. With all that t-storms pop ups I took off Campbell River a bit earlier. I would better hold over Port Angeles KCLM to meet the timeline.





That international leg was not a walk in the park. Honestly it was one of the most work-loaded leg of all 10 days. I had to stick to a route and to a deadline.
I feel deep sympathy for you IFR flyers.




Over Port Angeles I was holding for 10 minutes doing pattern work. After landing taxied to US Customs the officer was polite and efficient in spite of light rain. It took me 8 minutes to clear I didn't even need to deplane. After taking 10 gallons of gas I headed to Forks, Washington S18. There are tons of motels within walking distance.





I secured the airplane and walked to town.





The closest to the airport motel was priced per Alaskan standards but I was too tired to walk farther. Booked a room then walked couple minutes to a pizza place. Got beer and food and was happy. Even watched some TV back in the room. Tomorrow will be a great day of flying Pacific Coast all the way down. Weather looks cooperative. :D
 
Day 11. Along Pacific Coast to Copalis Beach.

After a good night rest I spent some time at Forks Timber Museum.





Loggers Memorial.





A lot of old machinery around. From steam to diesel power.





I've never seen a log over 8 feet in diameter.





I took off and headed toward shoreline under the cloud deck. The bases were high over the water.





Tracked the shore southbound to Copalis State airport S16.








For several years I was trying to make that Pacific Coast beach. It happened finally.





The little booties from an Alaskan hotel came out handy.





There were a lot of hikers on the beach. Some of them congregated closer to my airplane. There were several dogs. A local gentleman approached and asked for a picture. Sure why not. Then came a young couple then more with kids. Quick cockpit tour and I am out.





A while ago I asked my friends what to sight see along the Pacific coast? Nearly all of them said nothing is there. I didn't tell them what kind of sightseeing platform I had in mind. It is a pretty coast to fly along just make sure you study the chart and don't violate NOAA regulations...
 
Vlad - love your write-ups and I'm taking notes!

What kind of camera are you using for those shots?
 
Vlad - love your write-ups and I'm taking notes!

What kind of camera are you using for those shots?

Thanks Greg. I still have my 12 years old Nikon D50 and recently bought a point and shoot Canon. None of them have good lenses and it's a challenge to shoot on the move. Invest in a DSLR with good lens if you plan to shoot a lot.

 
Day 11. Tracking Pacific Coastline

Time to get another 10 gallons of gas. Tracking the shoreline to Astoria Regional KAST.







There is a lunch wagon by the airport very convenient for transients. Look at my parking buddy. The Shine of Generations.








There was an area of broken ceilings along the coast. Tons of skylights with super smooth ride. I plugged in Vivaldi radio and thoroughly enjoyed the views.








Look at these tectonics








and caves!






 
Day 11. Driving the Shore.

They even have an operational beacon.








Look at these beautiful bridges!













I did a quick pit stop at Bendon State S05 then exited Oregon. California met me with clear skies and bouncy ride. I gained some altitude and sidestepped over the water. It was still choppy.





Next stop was picturesque Shelter Cove 0Q5. Thanks Greg Arehart for pointing me to here.





 
Day 11. Back to USSR with Jae Chang

Jae Chang built and flies an RV10. He claimed he is based at the prettiest airport in California and strongly recommended to visit. And he is good with a short notice and a cancellation if needed. Jae just returned from an Alvord Desert trip and was at home airport Half Moon Bay KHAF with his buddies. A short message goes to him "inbound with ETA in 30 min" who can accept that? Only Jae.





To my big surprise San Francisco airspace is not busy like New York's. I was probably the only GA aircraft over the Bay that evening.





I took a quick turn around Alcatraz and was on constant alert looking for tourist helicopters there were none. Wow. Couldn't say that about Hudson River Corridor.





There was a thin marine layer along the shore and that was a big surprise.




I dove under and was plowing my way today Half Moon Bay. What a coincidence exactly at the same time a Mooney was arriving from a long East Coast Trip and was also 2 minutes out. I made a lazy 360 to kill some time till Mooney lands. They have an interesting tunnel there.





Landed and was greeted by smiling Jae Chang. A conspirator! Now I know why you call Half Moon Bay the prettiest airport in California. It has a constant blanket of fog over it very quiet and peaceful.





We visited a hangar I couldn't believe what I saw. The hangar full of Soviet memorabilia including aircrafts.









We listened to a great story and had a good time.









Late night we went to a nice restaurant for dinner and bull shooting continued past midnight. There was a dispute who will take care of the restaurant bill and female pilot won. See you all tomorrow...
 
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Day 12. Город Сан Франциско!

San Francisco night was short but relaxing. Jae had a spare bedroom in his condo and I had a good sleep. Took care of my laundry I couldn't afford to discard socks and underwear anymore still have a week to polish CONUS borders.





Jae demonstrated to me an electric assisted folding bike and I took a demo ride. Then on the way to the airport he gave me a quick city excursion. We had a breakfast at a Korean restaurant and drove to Half Moon Bay airport. At the airport I spent couple hours on light maintenance. Removed the cowl, checked and tightened couple spots on the motor, removed and cleaned bottom spark plugs. Since last oil change I flew about 100 hours but I am not replacing neither filter nor oil today. My engine consumes about a quart every 4 -5 hours and I am good with that. The Mooney pilot who landed at the same time last night replaced my oxygen bottle with a full one. All assembled I thanked Jae for his great help and hospitality then left. The marine layer was still there.





I toured San Francisco one more time.



















Then headed to check on my efis manufacturer :D





Airspace near Palo Alto was quite busy and I retreated without going into much details on the grounds. The day already passed 3/4 and I need a place to regroup. That's where another RV10 builder stepped in. Nobody would ever hear his name and location here but you know who you are ...
 
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Vlad, what an incredible journey and awesome photos! Thanks for taking the time to share with all of us. You've definitely inspired me to spread my wings just a little bit more in the coming years.

Judging from some of the conditions you fly in you would have given a Lindbergh a run for his money. Low ceilings, rain, snow, ice, fog... who needs an instrument rating?

Can't wait for the remaining chapters!
 
Day 12. From 30 Fahrenheit to 40 Celsius.

By the end of Day 12 I finally started thawing. My ground coordinator suggested a place for overnight I couldn't miss. I am heading to KIPL Imperial County, California . Passing Ambassador Paul Rosales territory. Mazes of Airspaces...





A lot of fires on the way but some of them didn't have TFRs yet. Water bombers were shuttling down under in great numbers and approach control didn't know the location of every airplane. I climbed several thousand feet on top of their operations and stayed out of the way.





It looks like Anti Splat Airport.





Quirky reservoirs.





I started my descend over Salton Sea trying to fit between El Centro Naval Facility restricted areas. I was wondering if Imperial County AWOS had a glitch. It reported 1/2 mile visibility, a dust storm and 42 degrees Celsius temperature. Am I in California or in Gobi Desert?





It wasn't a glitch it was really hot. I tied the airplane down, took my toiletries out and checked in a newly renovated motel a few yards from airplane parking.





Cranked air conditioning to maximum and relaxed for half an hour. Later I was shuttled to town, ate at a Mexican restaurant and walked back to the hotel after dark. It was still 40 degrees Fahrenheit but I enjoyed it. :)
 
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