Q. on FAB airbox inlet baffle material

In looking through pictures on VAF I see that some builders have attached the FAB inlet baffle material to the cowling for the "lower U portion".

The plans show that all of the baffle strip is attached to the airbox, but the width provided does not form well given the curves involved.

It seems to me that since the lower cowl is raised into position during installation that attaching the material to this portion would be a better solution.

Can any of the builders that installed it this way give any insight to the ease of cowling installation? Would they do it the same way on a second RV?

In my case it's a carb. O-360-A1A with a FAB-360 airbox and a new pink cowl, a pretty standard setup.

I've seen it done both ways Gil, and in the end analysis, I think both methods work. I like to think that the seal is better with it attached to the FAB, as the airflow would have to double back on itself to escape going in to the FAB instead of just leaking into the cowl. I've always had a nice tight fit, and I just tuck it into place from the front as I install the lower cowl. It's a little bit of fiddling about, but not an issue.

I did as someone here recommended by making a 2-piece inlet baffle. It amounts to 2 overlapping C-shaped pieces. The upper piece attaches to the FAB box, with the open side down. The lower piece attaches to the cowl inlet, with the open side pointing up. I had some concern about loss of ram air pressure, but there is no discernible change. Makes it much easier to mount the lower cowl, and has been working well for 4-5 years.

You can ditch the skimpy strip in the FAB kit and use some from your baffle kit. I like a round one like this. Riveted with backing strips, stitched at the seam. Trim to fit the intake nozzle and no leaks.

aerhed said:

You can ditch the skimpy strip in the FAB kit and use some from your baffle kit. I like a round one like this. Riveted with backing strips, stitched at the seam. Trim to fit the intake nozzle and no leaks.

Click to expand...

So the baffle material fits inside the cowl inlet?

The baffle fits around the intake like a piece of scat.

aerhed said:

The baffle fits around the intake like a piece of scat.

Click to expand...

Ahh, thanks.

Since it's "fitted" with I presume no slits, does it still use the 3/8 FAB to Cowl gap specified?

Nope. The fiberglass nozzle was built to maybe two inches and it clears the front of the FAB by like an inch and a half. The FAB front has to be short enough on the RV10 to clear the edges of the intake tunnel when you lift the cowl up. The seal material pushes up when you lift the cowl and after it's up you run your finger around the seal and it flips straight. Pretty darn easy really, makes the other methods look wrong.

aerhed said:

Nope. The fiberglass nozzle was built to maybe two inches and it clears the front of the FAB by like an inch and a half. The FAB front has to be short enough on the RV10 to clear the edges of the intake tunnel when you lift the cowl up. The seal material pushes up when you lift the cowl and after it's up you run your finger around the seal and it flips straight. Pretty darn easy really, makes the other methods look wrong.

Click to expand...

That does sound really easy and efficient.

But I think the FAB-360 and my RV-6 cowl won't allow for a 1.5 inch gap... pity...

Front shot.