What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Easier way to install the lower cowling ??

N

N40ES

Well Known Member
New to me RV10 purchased flying. Finding it's hard to remove and replace the lower cowl without scratching the Cowl or 3 blade M/T Prop. Has anyone tried holding down the tail and slip it up vertically and then rotating in place? Any other tips or advise? Thanks in advance.
 
3 blade props in particular make it worse. Many of us have cut the slot in front of the gear leg (bottom of cowl) longer, in the forward direction (and then put the cut piece back in, using some hardware, backing plate, etc.). Remove this piece, making the slot longer, before removing the bottom cowl, makes life easier.
 
I'm building this part right now...

I'm currently planning to make the intake snorkel removable. Regarding elongating the slot for the nose gear, is there aerodynamic and practical merit to adding baffle fabric on each side of the slot forward of the gear leg to close it in yet allow the cowl to drop for removal?

I would do this if I did instead of putting a removable piece of fiberglass back in with screws and plate nuts. Just wondering. It seems like the whole length of the slot forward of the gear leg could benefit from this treatment for cleaner airflow out of the lower cowl exit.
 
Nose strut slot

I lengthened the slot and did not put anything back in. No changes noted but might try some speed tape to see if it makes any difference in CHT?s. Sure saved a lot of effort pulling the lower cowling.
 
I would put some protective tape on the front of the cowl. This stuff:

https://www.flyboyaccessories.com/Paint-Protection-Film-p/2301.htm

It'll keep the prop and spinner from beating up the cowl.

Also, tuck a soft microfiber rag between the cowl and the prop/spinner when you remove the lower cowl. That helps.

You might even make booties to slip over the prop blades.

After that, it is all an exercise in patience and geometry. The shorter you cut the seals around the baffle ramps and air intakes, the easier it'll be to remove the cowl, but if you go too far, you don't get the seal you want/need.
 
I'm finding as I fool with the lower cowl during fitment that it helps to bevel the side hinge eyelets a bit, in the same way that the rear hinge on the upper cowl is called out in the plans. Makes it easier to get the cowl to drop free and drop straight down. As we all know, anything helps.
 
I made a disc out of acetate sheet, which I slip over the crank shaft between the cowl and spinner before removing or installing the cowl. I think I used 0.020 sheet and it is about 24" diameter with a 10" hole in the center, and a radial cut from outer edge to the hole.

It still requires a juggling act to get the cowl on/off, but no paint scratches after 8 years.

I also extended the slot as others have mentioned, but made no effort to seal it up. I saw no change in engine temps or cruise performance. Has anyone(DanH) collected data on this?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top