What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Exhaust Slip Joint Anti-Seize

iamtheari

Well Known Member
What type of anti-seize have you all been using on the exhaust slip joints? Did you use any on the ball joints?
 
Yep

Both burn right off, hopefully after doing the job of releasing seized parts, does not prevent seize.
 
Does Larry also recommend removing the pipe and exercising the joint, or otherwise breaking up and/or flushing out the carbon?
-
 

Attachments

  • ScreenHunter_770 Dec. 24 08.28.jpg
    ScreenHunter_770 Dec. 24 08.28.jpg
    25.2 KB · Views: 471
Believe it or not, when I was with AA in the engine shop we used Malox on our injector bolts. This is the official anti seize required by GE on the turbine CT7 engines. They didn’t care what flavor, just had to be original Malox, worked great!
Mouse milk is great but on first start it’s gone, great stuff for cold stuck fasteners.
 
Believe it or not, when I was with AA in the engine shop we used Malox on our injector bolts. This is the official anti seize required by GE on the turbine CT7 engines. They didn’t care what flavor, just had to be original Malox, worked great!
Mouse milk is great but on first start it’s gone, great stuff for cold stuck fasteners.

Williams-Rolls Royce had a similar callout on the FJ44, but as I recall we used milk of magnesia.
 
Alternative to Mouse Milk, exhaust joints?

Is Permatex copper based anti-seize of any use? Temperature rated to 1800dF.
Should one loosen and exercise or disassemble the exhaust joints yearly?
Thanx
 
I use Permatex nickel anti-seize on my AWI exhaust ball swivels. I mix a slurry with mouse milk for application to the swivels. At annual, I remove the collector and exercise each tube with the concentrated paste. IIRC, DanH posted about tube failure (pretty low hours) following his AWL swivel seizure.

I learned something - - - Magnesium Hydroxide has anti-seize properties!
 
Last edited:
What type of anti-seize have you all been using on the exhaust slip joints? Did you use any on the ball joints?

I am now installing my exhaust and was asking that same question. I asked three seasoned A&P and was told to buy C5-A.

Loctite 51147 C5-A Copper Based Anti-Seize, -30 to 1800 degrees F Temperature Range. I am sure there are many other options but I felt good about this from what I have read. $17 for 8oz and should last a long time.

Protects metal parts from rust, corrosion, galling, and seizing
Temp. Range: 1800.0 F [Max]
Applicable Materials: Most Metals, Plastic, Copper, Brass, Cast Iron, Steel, Stainless Steel
MIL-PRF-907E
 
I have a Powerflow exhaust on my Cardinal and they require lube with anti seize every 100 hours. I use standard silver Permatex. It's good to 1600 degrees, which is more than you should see on a naturally aspirated Lycoming.
 
I Always find great data on VAF.
I needed a slip joint lube for exhaust tips that poke out of cowling post turbos and found the nickel stuff nearby in Phoenix.

Also learnt the graphite might be a problem for stainless. Almost used that…

Thank you!
Tj
 
Agreed. Care to share what you use Dan?

Sorry, missed these 2021 posts first time around.

Last eight years or so...nothing.

AWI's ball joints are tight, can't be disassembled, and can't be exercised much without removing the pipes from the engine. Mouse milk appeared to deposit carbon in the joint, making them stiffer. I decided to exercise them them in the vice one last time for cleanout, and run them naked. So far, all good.

If I were to lube going forward, I'd use a nickel anti-seize.

DanH posted about tube failure (pretty low hours) following his AWL swivel seizure.

No tube failures. Early on, a weld crack down in the center of the collector merge. The individual pipes are a slip fit into the merge. Mine was a very early system; AWI repaired the crack and asked me to cut 1/4" off the end of each head pipe so they did not bottom in the female merge tubes. No more issues. Bill, I assume your pipes, produced later, are not bottomed in the collector when the links are bolted.

I am now installing my exhaust and was asking that same question. I asked three seasoned A&P and was told to buy C5-A.

Loctite 51147 C5-A Copper Based Anti-Seize.....

Below from the Henkel website. Loctite is a Henkel brand, and C5-A contains both copper and graphite.

However, it is important to remember that while many compounds exist for stainless steel, copper anti-seize on stainless steel will create inter-crystalline corrosion which can cause parts to crack or break when under heavy loads.
 
Sorry, missed these 2021 posts first time around.

Last eight years or so...nothing.

AWI's ball joints are tight, can't be disassembled, and can't be exercised much without removing the pipes from the engine. Mouse milk appeared to deposit carbon in the joint, making them stiffer. I decided to exercise them them in the vice one last time for cleanout, and run them naked. So far, all good.

If I were to lube going forward, I'd use a nickel anti-seize.

Right on Dan. You aren't the only one with stiff ball joints. Those puppies on my -7A are pretty dang stiff. For the slips nickel and mouse milk seems to be working here but I'm only at 350 hours so far.
 
Back
Top