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Epoxy release tape?

Rv3Dave

Active Member
I have always used brown packing tape on aluminum as a release surface for epoxy layups. It releases well but when I remove the tape the brown adhesive remains on the aluminum which is a big hassle to remove. Is there a better tape to use? I have been using tape from the big box store think it is "Duck" brand.
 
I find vinyl tape is better.

You can get a giant roll of "stucco tape" at Home Depot which is a thin red vinyl tape about 2 inches wide with a not-too-sticky adhesive.
 
Like Gil, I find the vinyl tape to work great - it stretches over compound curves nicely. I buy the 2" wide gray eectrical bundling tape from Home Depot.
 
I have always used common clear package tape, then I put paste wax on the tape to further discourage sticking. Has always worked well for me.
 
I have always used common clear package tape, then I put paste wax on the tape to further discourage sticking. Has always worked well for me.

What type of wax do you use?

I did the Composite 101 at OSH a few years ago. We did a fiberglass layup on a square of aluminum that was waxed, but I forget what they said to use.
 
I think any paste wax will do just fine. Currently I am using some paste turtle wax, would be nice if it were thicker like the old Johnson paste floor wax.

What type of wax do you use?

I did the Composite 101 at OSH a few years ago. We did a fiberglass layup on a square of aluminum that was waxed, but I forget what they said to use.
 
To avoid the need to scrape clear packing tape adhesive residue from parts, I like to use a layer of high quality masking tape under the clear tape. By high quality I mean tape sourced from auto paint supply vendors - removes cleanly, even weeks or months later. It also helps to use Meguiars "Mold Release Wax 8" over the clear tape, directly to aluminum parts, and on fasteners if there is any chance of contact with epoxy.

Jeff
 
What type of wax do you use?

I did the Composite 101 at OSH a few years ago. We did a fiberglass layup on a square of aluminum that was waxed, but I forget what they said to use.

I use partall paste wax #2, but it is the layers not just the wax. In molds, I apply the wax and buff off 5 times, then only once per part there after. You know, wax on - wax off. Since the tape is non-stick, two coats max. Almost any paste wax will do. A carnauba car wax is excellent.

Regarding the adhesive - lighter fluid/naptha/coleman fuel or mineral spirits will easily/safely remove the residue.
 
I used black vinyl electrical tape sprayed with the heavy duty hair spray (purple can) our mom's used to use. Works great for any shape mold and pops right out with no residue. Check out the EAA videos. That's where I got it from.
 
Wax

I use Johnson & Johnson (now Sc Johnson) original formula paste wax. This was commonly used on wood floors & furniture. Available at Lowes, $7 for a 1lb can. Normally use packing tape which releases well but have had cleanup issues with the adhesive. Will try the vinyl tape next.

Don Broussard

RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
 
When doing the lay-ups for my RV-12 canopy skirt I used a combination of the methods previously mentioned. A layer of duct tape (and in some locations blue painters tape) was laid down first and then covered with clear packaging tape. For the release agent, I slathered the packaging tape with a thin film of Vaseline ? I had no issues getting the canopy lay-up to release from the fuselage. There was tape residue in a few locations after pealing away the tape, but Coleman stove fuel (Naphtha) cleaned it off nicely.
 
An oil based thinner might make easy work of removing the tape residue. For some things it works much better than mek or acetone.
 
My results

I appreciate all the replys. I bought both the red stucco tape and the grey electrical bundling tape at Home Depot. Used both on my empennage fairing layup. Both worked much better than the brown packing tape I had been using. Overall I like the grey electrical bundling tape a bit better. It has a little flex which allows it to conform to curves better, also the adhesive releases a little easier. FWIW I also use furniture paste wax made by Minwax.
 
Blue tape

I use the blue 3M masking tape for 'delicate surfaces' then put packaging tape over that. Blue tape comes off easy with no residue.
 
+ one here too

Johnson and Johnson floor wax like you would buff a wooden floor works good and has an easy clean-up afterwards. Just what we use, yours, R.E.A. III #80888
 
My favorite solvent for removing adhesive residue is Coleman fuel. It typically doesn't dissolve or soften the surface you're trying to clean, unlike acetone or MEK, and it doesn't smell badly either. Coleman fuel also works great to clean your belly. It dissolves oil and lead residue without harming your paint.

I've found the best place to buy it is at Big 5 sporting goods.

Heinrich

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