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Oil drain solutions

uk_figs

Well Known Member
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Getting the lower cowling off/on on my -7 with a 3 blade prop is a real pain. Not so bad for the condition inspection when there is more engine work to do/check but irritating when just doing a 25 hour oil change.

Anyone implemented a clever solution for lower oil drain plug access (0-360), I have the quick release spring loaded oil drain plug installed.
Thanks
Figs
 
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Dave,
I don't have a pic, but a friend of mine made his air intake snoot removeable. It took a bit of glass work to make the edges flush-fit with the cowl and looks very nice. Held on with about a dozen screws. Access to oil drain and makes getting cowl off and on much easier.
 
Can you reach into the lower cowling and put some drain tubing on by feel? It's possible in my -9A, but I've never done it because I'm on 50-hour intervals for oil/filter change, and at that point the cowling comes off for inspection of various bits.
 
vacuum out the oil

I had the same problem with my car - drain hole very hard to access. I bought one of those negative pressure hand pump oil extractors and it works great.

This was many years ago and it still works fine. The technology today seems even better. I might try this sometime with my io360 and then remove the plug to see if it got all the oil.

Not sure how much you fly, but every 25 flight hours probably can't hurt to take off the cowl. I have a 2-blade so it's a bit easier, but definitely not easy. I'm always happy if someone walks by the hangar when I'm about to remove my cowl. Otherwise, I use lots of microfiber cloths in places that might rub the paint. It can be a real yoga exercise to remove the fasteners, hold the cowl in place, ensure that the towels are where I want them to be, nothing getting scratched, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/America-5060TS-Topsider-Multi-Purpose-Removing/dp/B001445IZ8/
 
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Not sure how much you fly, but every 25 flight hours probably can't hurt to take off the cowl. I have a 2-blade so it's a bit easier, but definitely not easy. I'm always happy if someone walks by the hangar when I'm about to remove my cowl. Otherwise, I use lots of microfiber cloths in places that might rub the paint. It can be a real yoga exercise to remove the fasters, hold the cowl in place, ensure that the towels are where I want them to be, nothing getting scratched,

I've found it a bit easier to remove the lower cowling if I am working on my own, by supporting it from underneath with a folding table. I slide the table into position and wad up several towels to support the cowling before undoing the fasteners. Then the table can be slid out and the cowling lowered and removed.
 
Getting the lower cowling off/on on my -7 with a 3 blade prop is a real pain. Not so bad for the condition inspection when there is more engine work to do/check but irritating when just doing a 25 hour oil change.

Anyone implemented a clever solution for lower oil drain plug access (0-360), I have the quick release spring loaded oil drain plug installed.
Thanks
Figs

My experience with a now 1300+ hour airplane is that it's worth taking the cowling off every 25 hours and performing a careful firewall forward inspection. There's a lot of vibration up front and insidious little problems start to develop eventually.
 
Quick drain

Good Morning Fig, I take the top cowling off, the back pin on the lower right cowling and I can reach the drain with a hose. I tie the hose up with safety wire, put my oil can under the aft cowl with the hose in it and release the quick drain. Try not to burn your arm on the exhaust. I use a long glove to do all of the in cowling stuff.
 
Good Morning Fig, I take the top cowling off, the back pin on the lower right cowling and I can reach the drain with a hose. I tie the hose up with safety wire, put my oil can under the aft cowl with the hose in it and release the quick drain. Try not to burn your arm on the exhaust. I use a long glove to do all of the in cowling stuff.

Fred
Interesting approach I will have to check that out.

The removable snout is also a great idea and a friend of mine did that but a lot of fiberglass work and that was the least fun part of the build for me. The 25 hour inspection is a good point but you can check a lot with just the top cowl off.

The vacuum extract idea is also interesting, probably some practical reason why this would not be more popular (worry about dropping something into the sump!!)
Thanks for the ideas
Figs
 
I made a rolling stand to fit under the lower cowl and that and Skybolt fasteners makes it fairly easy to remove. I also like to inspect engine compartment every oil change. Found a crack in the exhaust at the flange one time. I have a quick-drain on the slump and that saves time.
 
I am also in the camp of taking the full cowling off at every oil/filter change to get a good look at everything FWF. I fabricated a removable snorkel on my RV-10, and also on my RV-9A, which really helps with the lower cowling removal/installation, especially since I am usually doing it alone. I like the idea of a custom rolling padded cart for positioning the lower cowling. I am definitely going to steal this idea.
 
My hangar neighbor has a forward facing sump with the drain on the left front of the sump, which required pulling the cowling. I cut a small door in the lower cowl under the sump drain with a hinge (fwd end) and two screws to hold it in place using an aluminum doubler on the inside for support. Remove two screws and the door opens for easy access. Also provides better visibility to components on the bottom side for inspection.
 
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Getting the lower cowling off/on on my -7 with a 3 blade prop is a real pain. Not so bad for the condition inspection when there is more engine work to do/check but irritating when just doing a 25 hour oil change.

Anyone implemented a clever solution for lower oil drain plug access (0-360), I have the quick release spring loaded oil drain plug installed.
Thanks
Figs

It would take some work on a completed/painted cowl, but I always thought what Stu did was cleaver with an oil change door. Check out min 7ish on this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rM7FAoi1eyE

I've used a pump on my European cars for years and also use it on my plane with a Fumoto ball drain valve. Still take the cowl off, but makes it easy to bring the old oil home to recyle.
https://www.amazon.com/EWK-Pneumati...keywords=oil+extractor&qid=1613337928&sr=8-13
 
It would take some work on a completed/painted cowl, but I always thought what Stu did was cleaver with an oil change door. Check out min 7ish on this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rM7FAoi1eyE

I've used a pump on my European cars for years and also use it on my plane with a Fumoto ball drain valve. Still take the cowl off, but makes it easy to bring the old oil home to recyle.
https://www.amazon.com/EWK-Pneumati...keywords=oil+extractor&qid=1613337928&sr=8-13
Oil change door looks like a good solution, interesting filter also in Stu's video versus the spin on champion I use. I could modify the cowl as my paint is single stage PPG and I can buy a rattle can to repaint small areas.

I also like the pump idea, added to my amazon wish list. How easy is it to flip the lever on the Fumoto and it looks like there is a safety clip on the valve in the amazon picture. I could run a hose to the rear of the lower cowl and then just have to open the valve. Now have to find out the thread size for the sump plug :)
 
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Oil change door looks like a good solution, interesting filter also in Stu's video versus the spin on champion I use. I could modify the cowl as my paint is single stage PPG and I can buy a rattle can to repaint small areas.

I also like the pump idea, added to my amazon wish list. How easy is it to flip the lever on the Fumoto and it looks like there is a safety clip on the valve in the amazon picture. I could run a hose to the rear of the lower cowl and then just have to open the valve. Now have to find out the thread size for the sump plug :)

Heavy equipment just puts a piece of hose trailing from the oil sump to where a technician can reach it. The end of the hose has the valve on it. Heavy, but reliable. Can't say I favor the idea, but it works. Pretty sure the sump thread is 1/2 NPT.

I have found the issue with suction is that the tube ID needs to be sizable or it takes a lot of time. I experimented with a 5 gal metal gas can with a vacuum pump and 3/8 od tube, 1/4 was too small/slow. Works really well for replacement of coolant though! :D
 
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