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how dispatch screw holding entire cowling

D

danielabernath

Well Known Member
The screw stripped and won't move and now one screw B holding the entire bottom cowling of the RV 12. Do I drill through the center and then pull it out? The X in the screw is now a 0
 
Locking pliers

Somtimes a screw can be gripped on it's head by a vise-grip especially the needle nose variety Then try turning it slowly. Is the other end a nutplate or???

Jerry
 
I have removed a few using a Dremel with a very small abrasive cutting disc and grinding a slot in the head to fit a flat blade screwdriver. The heat created by the grinding also helps loosen up the screw. Work fast.
 
9GT said:
I have removed a few using a Dremel with a very small abrasive cutting disc and grinding a slot in the head to fit a flat blade screwdriver. The heat created by the grinding also helps loosen up the screw. Work fast.
Click to expand...

This is the best method I've found.
 
If it's like the rest of the RVs and only has one problem screw...

I prefer using the now deformed Philips bit hole to drill down into and remove the head completely.

Remove the cowl and replace the nutplate along with the screw remains.

There may be a little less risk of screwing up the cowl surface this way instead of the Dremel cutting technique, especially if it's a countersunk screw.

If the nutplate is corroded or damaged it should be replaced anyway. :)
 
Gil, the cowl screws and many others on a 12 are truss head stainless screws (AN526C832R8). Since they're stainless they are pretty easy to round out. I ordered a hundred from Spruce just because a lot of them on my plane were in need of replacement.

If you have one you can't get loose with a screwdriver, using a Dremel with an abrasive wheel to make it into a slotted head screw for removal works. If it's not too far gone, I've also had success in a few cases using a good, new Phillips screwdriver with a dab of valve grinding compound for extra grip.
 
Those screw removal bits

I use a kit I bought at lowes that has 3 different sizes that you flip around. One end has a drill bit and the other has a tapered twist that removes the screw. Worked great, have removed 100's of screws on Kingairs. Wear them out, throw them away and buy a new set.
 
I've rounded out enough screw heads on my plane already that I will *NOT* reuse a #6 for any reason, and #8's with any visible wear at all get tossed. I think I'm more picky with screws now than I am with spark plugs, I've replaced all the nutplates I want to. Screws are cheap.
 
I will not use stainless screws on anything that is removed during normal maintenance.
Stainless does not play well with nutplates. The next time you remove one, look at the threads with a magnifying glass.
 
gasman said:
I will not use stainless screws on anything that is removed during normal maintenance.
Stainless does not play well with nutplates. The next time you remove one, look at the threads with a magnifying glass.
Click to expand...

I used SS screws in quite a few areas on my plane. I always lubricate them before installation or re-installation. I got rid of the Phillips drive and replaced them with star drive. Whenever I remove them I put them in a clear plastic deli cup and give them a quick spray of lubricant before re-installation. So far so good with no noticeable signs of binding or galling.
 
I've been using stainless screws in steel nutplates (no lube) for everything not aluminum or steel structure on my plane for 12-14 years. Occasionally I'll get a "tight" screw (maybe one in 300). Chase the nutplate once with a thread tap and no more problem. First I used hex socket. For the last 5-6 years, exclusively Torx (6 lobe) throughout. No more slipping drivers and no more worn screw heads.
 
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