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Work Bench Dimensions

drozovs

Member
Hello All,

This is my first post and after dreaming about for years it I finally have decided that 2015 is my year to build my first (of hopefully many) RVs!... the first is going to be an -8 :)!

So with my first post comes my first question, after reading for days, the one thing I was curious about is what are the minimum (and recommended) dimensions for a workbench are?

Space is not an issue but wasn't sure if too big is bad (I figured I don't want to log time walking around it lol)?

Many thanks and I look forward to the journey ahead!
 
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A 4'x 8' is not too big if space is available to walk around it.

Gives good space for working on larger assys like canopy or the whole wing skeleton.

Rest of the time there are 4 to 6 project spaces on the table so multiple things can be underway (or on hold) at the same time without crowding. If you have a vice mounted, one corner becomes a " dirty " corner since vice work is just that way.

EAA has a popular bench design (smaller than mine described above). You can find it with a bit of searching.
 
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EAA workbench is Excellent

Yep, the EAA workbench is hard to beat. Easy to make, good use of materials, and rock solid. Have recommended these to friends building airplanes and restoring cars, and they've all been pleased with the versatility of the design. Save yourself some time trying to improve on the design (learn that lesson early😉), and build a few of those benches.

Good luck!
 
We're building our current project on a 4x10 bench, and I love it! Of course, we have lots of room in our hangar and can move all around the bench with ease, and tools/power equipment is on a back wall. Having all that work surface allows multiple projects at once, and right now we have most of a fuselage up there.

If you have enough room, big is good!
 
Welcome

Welcome David.
I agree. The EAA benches are hard to beat.
I built two plus and a third oddball sized from the remaining plywood. When I need a wider bench, I move them beside each other for a 4'x5' surface. Most of the time they are end to end for 2'x10'. The extra plywood made a 3'x4' bench that has all the table tools mounted to it. I also changed the bottom to a thicker plywood to support heavier stuff.
 
Bigger is better! A couple of thoughts:

Multiple benches is good if you have room.

Make them all the same height.

Keep all of them on wheels. Makes it easy to move them to clean and to put them together for the really big projects.

I built a 4 x 4 with a bench grinder on one corner, a sanding disk on corner two, a drill press on corner three, and a vice on corner four. You only work with one tool at a time and it keeps all the "dirty" stuff on one bench.

Don't get too hung up on benches but if you are going to build them, do it for long term!
 
Bench

I built a 4 x 4 with a bench grinder on one corner, a sanding disk on corner two, a drill press on corner three, and a vice on corner four. You only work with one tool at a time and it keeps all the "dirty" stuff on one bench.

That's funny. Mine has the exact same stuff on the corners. I do have a band saw on one side.
 
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Larry,

I don't know if I just did it that way or if I copied someone else's idea 8 or 9 years ago! But as you know, it really works well.
 

+1 on these .. I built two. Early on I put them together short end to short end (with the dimpler mounted in the middle) for a long workbench for the wings, now I have them long end to long end for the fuse. I added a few extra shelves to hold all the goodies. Very functional! I'd recommend glueing them together as well as screwing them. I have screws only and after lots of beating, they get a bit loose. Can't go wrong here!
 
I have a 3' x 8' that has been large enough for everything so far... EXCEPT the bench mounted tools. I built a 1/2 length EAA workbench and mounted the band saw, belt sander, drill press and buffer/Scotchbrite on it. I don't need the big vise often, so when I do I bolt it down on the big bench temporarily.

I think workbench space is like building space... you can make do with what you have, but more is always nicer!
 

+1 on the EAA workbench. I made some slight modifications: first, I made my tables a few inches higher because I'm a tall guy. I also added carriage bolts and tee nuts on the legs to allow for leveling and height adjustment, as well as doing the retractable gear modification.

Finally, instead of 2'x5', I made two 2'x6' tables and one 2'x4'. This allowed me to make full use of two 4'x8' sheets for the bench tops and shelves, and now I have two full-size portable benches. The small bench became my power tool station, and now houses the bench grinder, drill press, and bandsaw, along with chargers for my cordless drills and such. I ended up mounting a power strip to one end of the thing, so I can power down the entire bench if I'm, say, changing a bandsaw blade.
 
Over hang ?

On the EAA workbench plans, it does not look like the top plywood has any over hang. Is there any need for a couple inch over hang for clamping?
Thanks in advance
 
On the EAA workbench plans, it does not look like the top plywood has any over hang. Is there any need for a couple inch over hang for clamping?
Thanks in advance

I've seen several folks on here who added an overhang for this purpose. Personally, I didn't do it and I haven't had any issues, but I almost always use quick grip-type clamps.
 
On the EAA workbench plans, it does not look like the top plywood has any over hang. Is there any need for a couple inch over hang for clamping?
Thanks in advance

Depends. If the bench is only for airplane then maybe not, per the other post.

But if this bench is going to live on and serve other purposes after the build then definitely yes add an overhang. I have 2 x 2 glued and screwed all the way around mine. The bench has served for 35 years. Not just for the RV.
 
Regarding the overhang - I did build mine with an overhang and it's been very useful. However, if i were to do it again, I would build one bench with one long side flush with the frame.

When it came to riveting that trailing edge of the rudder, I ended up making a second top that was flush so that I could mount a piece of angle iron to act as the back riveting plate.

My 2 cents.
 
I built a rolling table/service cart, approximately 3' x 4' from scrap wood in my neighbors wood shop. The top is 1/2" plywood while the bottom is 3/4 (added stability) and the legs are 2" x 2" with wheels from Harbor Freight.

All parts are glued and screwed; it is very stable. Having the bottom section allows for lots of storage to keep the shop/hangar organized and those common items handy.


view
 
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Great design

I did paint (slopped on) clear shellac on the top of the bench, one coat is good. Since it only dissolves with alcohol, oils won't soak in and can be cleaned off without splinters. YMMV. I do this to all my benches to keep them from looking so stained.
 
Benches

No overhang on mine. I use the quick lock clamps from HF. No carpet either. It catches shavings. I have a 4'x4' dimpling shelf that does have carpet. When dimpling, the two benches sit side by side with the shelf on top. I also have a back riveting 1/4" section of plywood with a hole for the back riveting plate. When the bench tops need refreshing, I hit them with an orbital and their good as new.
 
I did paint (slopped on) clear shellac on the top of the bench, one coat is good. Since it only dissolves with alcohol, oils won't soak in and can be cleaned off without splinters. YMMV. I do this to all my benches to keep them from looking so stained.

Yep, me too. Keeps 'em decent looking and functional for years.

To fit my shop I made my table 42" x 84". Worked great and still serves a myriad of uses today. I would allow more overhang for clamping if building another one, however.
 
The white melamine-coated particle board, used in cabinets, makes an excellent table top. It's smooth enough to clean easily and not scratch the aluminum.

I use the overhangs on my benched all the time.

A Roomba robot vacuum cleaner is an excellent shop aid. Make sure that your benches have enough clearance to accommodate one.

You can make simpler work benches than the EAA one. I've made eight of these. They work very well.

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When you're making the horizontal pieces, make a couple extra to use as spacers for the top - screw them to the top, invert, and then the top fits snugly and is easily removed or flipped over.

Dave
 
Love the red steel benches above!

I am not a builder, I am an owner. I wanted a couple tables/benches in my hangar and looked around at all the Harbor Freight type ready-mades. I just didn't like them and for the money, I knew I could do a better job. I went with the EAA1000 benches and am very happy with them. And, while I don't have a picture of them, I had exactly enough plywood left to build 2 additional benches for the back wall. They are 24"x46", which is the dimensions of the remaining plywood. I had to buy a handful more studs for the fraiming but I was tired of looking at the plywood leaning against the wall, and they were fun to build the first time around.

I really love the size. They fit nicely against the wall and only stick out 2 feet, so they are not taking up a lot of room. But they are plenty large for any projects I've had. Like some others, I put my table tools and new vise on the ones in the back of the hangar. The shelf space is wonderful for taking a lot of the weight off of my plastic vertical shelf.

Also, I just built mine over the past 5-6 weeks or so. I got a really good price on some cabinet grade 3/4" ply, which looked MUCH nicer than the recommended wood. And I finished the edges with the 3/4" screen molding too. It really makes the benches look "finished."

Good luck!!

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Steel bench

Is there a reason for the wood bench? I have 24"x96" steel welding table.
What are the drawbacks with using a steel bench as opposed to a wood surface?
it is very heavy and not very mobile. Other then that, is there a problem with using the steel top? Seems like you could use the entire table to back rivet. I would have to polish the surface to get welding splatter off...

I could screw a wood top to the welding table if needed.
I don't want to loose my welding table, and I would probably build at least one of e EAA tables. Space is getting a little tight in the hanger.
Just trying to make sure there is not a problem I'm missing
Thanks
 
Steel table

No reason at all. It's just a work surface. Smooth would help. It's handy to be able to clamp things to the top. I'm sure you can find a solution. You might put a wood top on it.
Another idea in tight spaces is a solid core door hinged to a wall with two folding legs.
 
All,

Not sure why I didn't get a notice that there were replies but wanted to thank you all for the responses! Definitely has given me food for thought! Looking forward to building! :)
 
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