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AFP, Superior Cold Air sump, Vetterman crossover

J

John Courte

Well Known Member
Do any of you have the Airflow Performance FM200, Superior Cold Air horizontal induction sump, and Vetterman crossover exhaust on a parallel-valve 360? What length is your fuel hose from the pump to the fuel servo? What orientation did you mount the servo at? How did you route the fuel hose?

And finally, What's the proper way to specify hose length for a custom cut? If I have a custom hose made at a place like Earl's and I call out 26.5", does that mean from flare to flare or just the length of the actual hose minus the fittings?

Thanks in advance,
-John
 
Hoses

I have the exact same setup with an O-320 planned for my -9 installation. I don't have my exhaust yet. Although I have no idea what hose length you need, I have a suggestion on how to determine hose lengths. Use a suitable piece of automotive fuel hose to mock up the total installation, right down to Adel clamp positions and such. Terminate the rubber hose ends with a careful square cut right at the tip of the flares on both ends of the hose run. This "tip to tip" dimension is used by the hose shop to determine the exact hose dimensions you will need. Send that rubber hose to the shop, and you'll get just the right length you need.

Regards,
Chris
 
Thanks for the hose measuring tips, that helps. I'll probably get them from Earl's (anplumbing.com) since the shop is 20 minutes away from home.


I'm finding this setup is really tight in there. With the servo rotated 90 degrees like the manual specs out, the diaphragm chamber is pointed to the right and the heat muff now has about 1/2" of clearance. I foresee a fair amount of heat shield in my future.

I'm not sure if I'll need to get a different exhaust or what. I could probably alleviate some of the clearance problems with a longer adapter between the servo and the sump, but then I run the risk of interfering with the lower cowl.
 
I have the same arrangement and I'm using Earls for bulk hose and fittings, but will fabricate the lines myself. I put the heat muff on the horizontal run off the #4 cylinder.
 
Larry, how did you do the linkages for throttle and mixture? Were you able to use any of the Van's hardware or did you have to make your own?
 
I talked to Larry Vetterman a couple of days ago, and he has the same setup on his RV. Without going into too much detail, he said I'd have to make my own bracketry, but I could probably make some of the 200hp bellcrank setup work. I found out that with my Kelly Aerospace starter, the throttle body interferes with the starter when the diaphragm is at the 12:00 position. However, with the diaphragm at 9:00, I might be able to make the bellcrank work for the throttle, while the mixture gets a push-pull from beneath the sump.

If the diaphragm housing is at 9:00 though, it's really close to the #1 exhaust pipe, which presents a potential vapor lock issue.

with the diaphragm at 3:00, it definitely won't clear the starter, which is a no-go. I'm open to the possibility of trading out the starter for a shorter one like a sky-tec, but I'm going to see if I can make this work first.

Part of the issue is with the joggled throttle arm on the AFP servo. if it's clocked wrong, it'll interfere with the factory calibrated pushrod on the butterfly. I'm in Vancouver on business at the moment, so I'll try to tackle it when I get back to LA.
 
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