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How Do You Start Your Airplane?

rockitdoc

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Here's the sequence I have always used, but if there is some better way, I'd like to 'hear' it.

1. Master - On
2. Alternator - On
3. PMag L - On
4. PMag R - On
5. Fuel boost - On until peaks-off
5. Start

6. ELT - On
7. Avionics - On
8. Lights, as needed - On

The problem with this sequence with a glass panel is the fuel pressure can’t be read until the avioncs are turned on. But, I have seen where turning avioncs on before staring engine could send unwanted electrical molecules into the EFIS’s
 
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Fuel Injected IO-360 with one mag with impulse coupler and one SDI electronic ignition

8.3 STARTING ENGINE
a) Fuel Selector Valve - DESIRED TANK
b) Master Switch – ON
c) Alt Field -- ON
d) Strobe – ON
e) Coil Pack Switch - ON
COLD START
f) Mixture - RICH
g) Throttle - OPEN 1/8 travel
h) Fuel Boost Pump -- ON
i) WAIT 2-5 sec - Until Steady Fuel Flow
j) Fuel Boost Pump - OFF
k) Propeller Area - CLEAR
l) Ignition Switch - START
HOT START
f) Mixture - IDLE CUT-OFF
g) Throttle - OPEN 1/8 travel
h) Fuel Boost Pump -- ON
i) Mixture - Move to RICH
j) WAIT 2-5 sec - Until Steady Fuel Flow
k) Mixture - IDLE CUT-OFF
l) Fuel Boost Pump - OFF
m) Propeller Area - CLEAR
n) Ignition Switch - START
(after engine starts)
o) Mixture - Move Slowly to RICH
AFTER START
p) Throttle - 1000-1200 RPM until warm
q) Oil Pressure -- CHECK min within 30 secs
r) Fuel Pressure -- CHECK
s) Mixture - LEAN as required
8.4 TAXI
a) Flaps -- UP
b) Radio Master -- ON
c) Avionics Master -- ON
d) Intercom -- ON
e) Radio – ON
f) Transponder -- STAND-BY
g) Angle of Attack -- TEST/CHECK
h) Nav Lights - ON as required
i) Brakes-- EFFECTIVE
j) Flight Controls -- FREE and CORRECT
k) Area -- CLEAR
 
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We’re in steps a. To l. Do you activate avionics? Or, is this a steam gauge panel? That’s what I’m used to.
 
IO-320D1A

Master on, ALT on, strobe on, flaps up, avionics master on, throttle wide open, full rich, Pmags both on, boost pump on for 3-4 seconds, throttle to 1/2 inch open, mixture idle cutoff, starter and advance mixture to full rich while cranking.

Once at 1000 RPM idle, Check oil pressure and oil temp. Idle while GPS units etc initialize. Lean for taxi.
 
IO320, full SDS EFI&I. Dual buss, dual alternator and dual battery.

Turn on aux battery (e-buss) and wait for all three pretty little video screens to come on line.

Turn main battery, turn on engine ECU, both ignition coils, both fuel pumps and push start button. Watch the oil pressure come up on engine monitor screen, ditto amps and volts. As the screens are all on the aux battery, they do not brown out during start.

All engine control switches on left of panel, except alternator fields. Allows right hand on throttle and left to control electrons for start.
 

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My EFIS is wired to come on with the master but I usually turn it on as the first step in the start sequence by using the Dynon back up battery. This is the way Cessna has you start the G1000 equipped airplanes

The rest of the avionics (intercom, IFD-440, Garmin G5) come on with the avionics switch.

I don't know if there's a potential for damage to the EFIS doing this way but I haven't seen anything in the Dynon manual that says otherwise and I want to be able to read oil pressure immediately after engine start and not have to wait for the EFIS to boot up. I'd rather replace the EFIS then the engine.
 
Here's the sequence I have always used, but if there is some better way, I'd like to 'hear' it.

1. Master - On
2. Alternator - On
3. PMag L - On
4. PMag R - On
5. Fuel boost - On until peaks-off
5. Start

6. ELT - On
7. Avionics - On
8. Lights, as needed - On

The problem with this sequence with a glass panel is the fuel pressure can’t be read until the avioncs are turned on. But, I have seen where turning avioncs on before staring engine could send unwanted electrical molecules into the EFIS’s.

Am I worrying about this for no good reason?

I’d hate to fry $10Gs worth of computers.

My EFIS's and navigator all specifically state that starting with avionics on is OK. Anyway, as I see it, the problem is more about the spikes of a collapsing field when turning the master OFF. While starting, IMHO the problem is more likely low voltage if the battery isn't fully charged and current drain is too high. My electrical system uses two PC680s and I start the engine using both.
 
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From my RV6 Check List

ALTIMETER - SET
MASTER/ALTERNATOR - ON
FLAPS – UP
FUEL – ON
BOOST – ON
MIXTURE - RICH
PRIME – 3 TO 5 SECONDS
THROTTLE – ¼”
START
OIL LIGHT - OUT
Ts & Ps – CHECK GREEN
+VE CHARGE & ALT LIGHT OUT
AVIONICS - ON
EFIS – BARO SET
RADIOS/GPS – ON /SET
 
Here's the sequence I have always used, but if there is some better way, I'd like to 'hear' it.

1. Master - On
2. Alternator - On
3. PMag L - On
4. PMag R - On
5. Fuel boost - On until peaks-off
5. Start

6. ELT - On
7. Avionics - On
8. Lights, as needed - On

The problem with this sequence with a glass panel is the fuel pressure can’t be read until the avioncs are turned on. But, I have seen where turning avioncs on before staring engine could send unwanted electrical molecules into the EFIS’s

The EFIS should have backup battery to power the critical system (like EMS) in case of an electrical problem. So turning on the EFIS with ALT off should be OK. And at least Dynon specifically states it's OK to have the skyview on while starting the engine.

I did make a stupid error in air once. I was trying to switch tanks, and reached out to the boost pump switch without looking. I very briefly pressed the starter switch which tripped my GNS430 and my radio. The skyview (and its subsystems) seemed undisturbed though.
 
I have the GRT system, with the independent engine module. GRT says it’s okay to have it on during start. Sometimes it re-boots during start, but boot up time is just a second or two. It triggers a warning light if there’s no oil pressure (or if I left the alternator off). As for starting, I exactly follow the procedures (cold, hot) in the Lycoming manual, and they always have worked for me.
 
All good comments.

Here’s what I’m planning in terms of switches (I am cutting holes in my panel so that’s why the questions) and I want the location of switches to be logical as in left to right sequencing using just my left hand while right hand is on throttle. Oh, switches are Honeywell SPST (master, alt, fuel) or DPDT (pmags) and one push button (start).

1. Master - on.
Turns on Dynon HDX1100’s simultaneously.
2. Alt - on
3. L pmag on
4. R pmag on
5. Fuel boost pump - on
6. Start

Look for oil pressure
Listen to the sweet sound of 390 ci and twin unmuffled exhausts.
:D
 
'Tentative' Layout

Here's a sketch of what I have in mind for the far left side of the panel where starting happens:

Panel-Start Switches Sketch.jpg
 
I turn the master on
Prime with the boost pump
Start with the key.


I opted out of the alternator switch as research showed it didn’t need to be off for start. I have a single alternator, single battery installation. Power is run via the vpx except for a second run downstream of the master that runs through a tcw voltage stabilizer that runs to power #2 of the g3x, ahrs and engine analyzer. This means I get no brownout and can read the fuel/oil pressure etc throughout the start.
 
Fuel Boost Switch Position

I have seen many boost pump switches mounted in the center of the panel above the throttle/prop/mixture group. Any arguments for that location versus near the start button?

I know some folks activate the boost pump when switching tanks. Coming from an injected Continental (Banana V Tail) using the boost pump in flight was highly discouraged. However, my -14A doesn't have one of those engines so I am not familiar with the procedure for switching tanks.
 
I don’t use the boost pump for switch tanks. I monitor fuel pressure and make the switch. It is used for takeoff and landing. I only have 4 switches above my ignition key. Master and avionics then below that boost pump/autopilot. I have the boost pump on and the power to my autopilot servos removed during takeoff and landing
 
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I have seen many boost pump switches mounted in the center of the panel above the throttle/prop/mixture group. Any arguments for that location versus near the start button?

I know some folks activate the boost pump when switching tanks. Coming from an injected Continental (Banana V Tail) using the boost pump in flight was highly discouraged. However, my -14A doesn't have one of those engines so I am not familiar with the procedure for switching tanks.

The main argument is to have the switch near the throttle, because that’s likely to be where your hand is already if the engine starts to stumble, or just outright quits. Yes, the Lycoming system is not the same as the TCM; you can leave the boost pump (really a backup pump for Lycoming) on all day long if you want. My rule is ‘on’ whenever I’m low enough to the ground that a re-start might not happen soon enough: takeoffs and landings, and anytime below 1000’ agl.
 
The main argument is to have the switch near the throttle, because that’s likely to be where your hand is already if the engine starts to stumble, or just outright quits. Yes, the Lycoming system is not the same as the TCM; you can leave the boost pump (really a backup pump for Lycoming) on all day long if you want. My rule is ‘on’ whenever I’m low enough to the ground that a re-start might not happen soon enough: takeoffs and landings, and anytime below 1000’ agl.

I'm sold. New arrangement of left panel, which includes a pitot heat switch I almost forgot. I wonder what else I forgot.

Panel Left Side Tentative.jpg
 
Way more answers already than you need, but...

My Dynon EFIS uses a backup battery so I start it first on the backup battery, to avoid a brownout of the screen during cranking.
Fuel pump on - check pressure (45 psi needed)
Ignitions on (two SDS coil packs)
SDS engine computer on
Crank until fire, throttle for smooth idle.
Alternator on
Avionics master on
EFIS ship power on

Yeah, I know - lots of people will tell you horror stories about all your babies being born naked if you switch the alternator power while the engine is spinning - and all that is due to 40-year old electronics and simply DOES NOT APPLY to todays alternators and regulators.

By the way - your babies will STILL be born naked.
 
Yeah, I know - lots of people will tell you horror stories about all your babies being born naked if you switch the alternator power while the engine is spinning - and all that is due to 40-year old electronics and simply DOES NOT APPLY to todays alternators and regulators.

😂 This applies to more than just the ALT switch position for start.
 
Backup EFIS Battery

If you are just designing your panel or want to change your existing layout, I read as a best practice for Glass is to have a seperate switch where you can turn on a backup battery to give your EFIS power before cranking the plane. Not only is this battery used for backup, but putting it on a switch allows you to turn on the EFIS for engine information to be available like Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, CHT, EGT, etc. and does not "tap" in to your main ship battery. There are a lot of people who just turn on the Master to get power to their EFIS.... this works but there are risks associated with this method but I'm sure it works 99% of the time until it doesn't.
 
If you are just designing your panel or want to change your existing layout, I read as a best practice for Glass is to have a seperate switch where you can turn on a backup battery to give your EFIS power before cranking the plane. Not only is this battery used for backup, but putting it on a switch allows you to turn on the EFIS for engine information to be available like Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, CHT, EGT, etc. and does not "tap" in to your main ship battery. There are a lot of people who just turn on the Master to get power to their EFIS.... this works but there are risks associated with this method but I'm sure it works 99% of the time until it doesn't.

Most glass today has an available internal backup battery not requiring a switched source that you can start the panel on.
 
Starting; 200 hp IO360-A1B6

COLD
Master on
Throttle, and mixture full forward
Pump on 3-4 secs
Strobe on
Throttle just above idle
Engage starter
HOT
Throttle, mixture full forward for 20 secs
Master on
Mixture to cutoff
Throttle just above idle
Strobe on
Engage Starter, when engine starts move mixture lever full forward
 
If you are just designing your panel or want to change your existing layout, I read as a best practice for Glass is to have a seperate switch where you can turn on a backup battery to give your EFIS power before cranking the plane. Not only is this battery used for backup, but putting it on a switch allows you to turn on the EFIS for engine information to be available like Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, CHT, EGT, etc...............

That's how I designed the panel in my -7A and have found it works very well in practice. I found my G3X system would brown out during the start and rebooted only after the alternator came online, if my main battery was a little low. Using the my backup/auxiliary battery keeps that from happening. In my checklist, the aux battery is the first item turned on to begin a flight and the last item turned off after a flight.
 
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Item 6 ??? Unless there is some new twist on ELT configuration this puzzles me.

First of all you would "ARM" the ELT not turn it "ON".

Second, you may have noticed no one else responded with this item in their checklist. That's likely because the ELT and the remote switch are battery powered and should always be armed.

Correct me please if I'm wrong; I'm a steam gauge guy.

Chris
 
Item 6 ??? Unless there is some new twist on ELT configuration this puzzles me.

First of all you would "ARM" the ELT not turn it "ON".

Second, you may have noticed no one else responded with this item in their checklist. That's likely because the ELT and the remote switch are battery powered and should always be armed.

Correct me please if I'm wrong; I'm a steam gauge guy.

Chris

I don't know if it's the same on his checklist but I have an ELT task on mine. The GPS data stream requires power from the aircraft. I put mine on the battery bus which necessitated a switch to turn power off.
 

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I don't know if it's the same on his checklist but I have an ELT task on mine. The GPS data stream requires power from the aircraft. I put mine on the battery bus which necessitated a switch to turn power off.

Thank you Jereme.

Chris
 
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Hecksky !!!!

This is the new Primer Wars - fantastic !!

I agree with the majority of what has been said.

There is a final option, and it it is to be read, read, read again before using - but it may get you home.

You have the $100 hamburger.... Is it hot, is it cold ? You try both but it won"t start.

This will work for fuel injected engines.

No pump

Throttle wide open

Mixture ICO

Mags on

Start cranking..... As it catches, slowly bring the mixture up and rather swiftly bring the throttle back.

You are basically purging the system thoroughly and getting the mixture to a point where it will fire and run.

Just have to be smart with the throttle or else - you are off !

:D:D
 
Yeah, I know - lots of people will tell you horror stories about all your babies being born naked if you switch the alternator power while the engine is spinning - and all that is due to 40-year old electronics and simply DOES NOT APPLY to todays alternators and regulators.

So an anecdotal counterargument: Early on, my Dynon XPDR was acting up (they fixed the problem under warranty). It would occasionally drop off-line and require a power cycle. To accomplish this, I simply turned the alternator and master off, then back on, and normally all was good because it usually happened on start-up. Except for the time it dropped off-line while coming in to land in a Class B airspace. At normal engine power, I turned the alternator off, cycled the master, and then turned the alternator back on and the Field circuit blew the fuse. Fortunately, we were close to landing, so continued on using main battery power, no issue, and I knew instantly which fuse to replace.

So somehow the surge from turning the alternator on at higher RPMs blew the fuse. Lesson learned...throttle back to idle RPMs if I ever have to do something like this again (I haven't).

BUT, yes, the old rules about turning things on after starting the engine no longer apply. E.g., I have no Avionics switch...all avionics come up with the Master on. The ones without backup batteries will power-cycle during engine start, but the two EFISes have backup batteries, so they stay on to provide engine monitoring functions. Ref. Nuckolls' materials on all the reasons behind this philosophy.

As for engine start: cold or hot, by the book (Lycoming) [IO-360 w/ 2 Slick mags]. Works every time.
 
Last Oshkosh during a seminar, the Hartzell alternator guys recommended not having the alternator on during start. I've changed my startup process to turn the alternator on after the engine is running.
 
Last Oshkosh during a seminar, the Hartzell alternator guys recommended not having the alternator on during start. I've changed my startup process to turn the alternator on after the engine is running.

Guys, guys, guys….saying “alternator” isn’t enough when you are talking about switching the alternator with the engine turning or not - it depends on if it is a standard ND internal-regulated (like we all got from Van’s twenty years ago) or an externally regulated one that has or has not been modified. So before you tell people that this or that will or won’t work, specify the alternator, regular, and configuration. Otherwise, you’re spreading advice that might not be applicable…..

(Sorry for picking your quote Mickey…just the quickest….)

Paul
 
Guys, guys, guys….saying “alternator” isn’t enough when you are talking about switching the alternator with the engine turning or not - it depends on if it is a standard ND internal-regulated (like we all got from Van’s twenty years ago) or an externally regulated one that has or has not been modified. So before you tell people that this or that will or won’t work, specify the alternator, regular, and configuration. Otherwise, you’re spreading advice that might not be applicable…..

This is true - I did assume that the Hartzell guy was speaking specifically about his alternators, which are the former Plane Power internally regulated alternators. And to be fair, he could have been simply propagating an OWT that's been around for a long time.

I recall him answering a question from the audience about if it's ok to start the engine with the alternator on, and he said something like "I don't know why you'd want to subject your alternator to all the stuff that's going on in the electrical system during an engine start..."

Leaving the alternator off during startup adds one step to my startup process, and gives me something to do while the oil is warming up...I have no science that tells me it's a good idea or a bad idea, but he's smarter about his alternator than I am, so I just did what he seems to have recommended.
 
Otherwise, you’re spreading advice that might not be applicable…..

Ok, now that made me laugh. That’s how I see most advice from the “experts” on the internet. Doesn’t matter whether it’s related to aviation or stocks, grain of salt goes a long way.

Dave
 
Last Oshkosh during a seminar, the Hartzell alternator guys recommended not having the alternator on during start. I've changed my startup process to turn the alternator on after the engine is running.

That is the way I have always turned my externally regulated overvoltage protected B and C alternator on.
 
How do you start your engine

Gee It is real simple. Hop in. Turn on fuel switch, Master next, turn key to start. Rolls over a few times and blub blub it starts at an idle. cold or hot.
Ya I cheated. I've got SDS fuel injection and ignition on my 500 hour 0-360 CS prop.
Real nice. Love it.
Art
 
Gee It is real simple. Hop in. Turn on fuel switch, Master next, turn key to start. Rolls over a few times and blub blub it starts at an idle. cold or hot.
Ya I cheated. I've got SDS fuel injection and ignition on my 500 hour 0-360 CS prop.
Real nice. Love it.
Art

Hahaha

We are looking forward to that in our 10.... Will report in a year or so ;)
 
Same

Me too, switch on, fuel pump on, hit the start button…hot or cold, starts like a car…

EFII System 32 and longing it!
 
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