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Matco Brake Master Cylinder

uk_figs

Well Known Member
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Looks like I have a slight leak on one of my Matco master cylinders (shaft has black oil mark and a few drips on the carpet heel pads), and from reviewing the various threads here it seems that overhauling the cylinders does not always fix the problem. The cylinders have been trouble free for 650 hours (13 years) and I am wondering whether to try to overhaul them or just replace the cylinder completely.
Appreciate any feedback.
Thanks
Figs
 
I have overhauled / rebuilt Matco Brake Master Cylinders for two different RVs. Both have worked find for the past 2 years or maybe I should say I have not had any complaints come back that they were leaking again.

I have Clevelands for the past 24 years on my airplane. (Rubber replaced numerous times. I like 5-years or 1,000 flight hours whatever occurs first.)

Typically on my own airplane, the new RUBBER parts or kit fix the leaks. IF there is scuffing on the steel or aluminum parts, then they may leak again soon. I like to take a Scotchbrite pad over the areas of steel that has wear marks so that it is smooth. IF it is smooth to the touch, I do not get leaks any time soon.

The Matco kit for overhaul / rebuilt is around $15 or was the last time I checked. There is one seal that is sorta like an o-ring on the inside of a washer. That part I have been unable to find without buying the kit. It is one of the parts that does need replaced.

I would try to rebuild / overhaul using the Matco kit. IF you have leaks any time soon after, then the replacement master cylinder may be needed.
 
Looks like I have a slight leak on one of my Matco master cylinders (shaft has black oil mark and a few drips on the carpet heel pads), and from reviewing the various threads here it seems that overhauling the cylinders does not always fix the problem. The cylinders have been trouble free for 650 hours (13 years) and I am wondering whether to try to overhaul them or just replace the cylinder completely.
Appreciate any feedback.
Thanks
Figs

There could be another root cause to check. I had a similar issue. The rebuild fixes the issue with the cylinders. The black is most likely caused from side loading putting more friction on the top oring. The rebuild is easy and basically replaces almost all the parts in the cylinder.

It turned out my rudder pedal frame wasn’t square. Mine was off about 1/8”. In talking with George at Matco, he said that is common in RVs. I got a longer bolt and added a couple washers. You want to ensure that the cylinder moves perfectly perpendicular to the floor. I did that a few years ago and everything has been great since.
 
There could be another root cause to check. I had a similar issue. The rebuild fixes the issue with the cylinders. The black is most likely caused from side loading putting more friction on the top oring. The rebuild is easy and basically replaces almost all the parts in the cylinder.

It turned out my rudder pedal frame wasn’t square. Mine was off about 1/8”. In talking with George at Matco, he said that is common in RVs. I got a longer bolt and added a couple washers. You want to ensure that the cylinder moves perfectly perpendicular to the floor. I did that a few years ago and everything has been great since.

Worth checking, thanks for the tip.
Figs
 
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