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  #1  
Old 11-11-2020, 09:51 AM
JurgenRoeland JurgenRoeland is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Belgium, Geraardsbergen
Posts: 128
Default Sliding canopy worries...

I trimmed most of what needed to be trimmed and I feel like I'm ready to make "the big cut".

The rear bow fits really nicely using all he clamps, the center rear of the plexy needed only little encouragment to fit on the rear part of the center bar.
The rest of the center bar butts nicely in the plexi bubble without using any force.
On the front bow, I used a long bolt to pull the canopy latch tube in 5/8 hole in the canopy.

When I look from the front, there are some serious gaps when I clamp the side bows. The images illustrate my problem. On the right side in the picture, I can almost halfway put my index finger underneath.

I tried moving the frame around but couldn't find get a better match without creating big gaps under the top center bow.

I assume that once the canopy is split, it will be more flexible to comply with the front bow when I clamp it in place then it is now.
I have drawn a 3/32 line for the division with the frame being in the current state.

What I'm worrying about is the movement of the sides when you pull it in on the top. will I still get 1/16 to 3/32 spacing if the whole thing moves, that is the big question.In other words, can I trust my current 3/32 split line .
Before making the cut I thought I'd ask for some opinions here.

Here are some images to illustrate:
http://jursairplanefactory.com/image...111_152620.jpg
http://jursairplanefactory.com/image...111_152611.jpg

thanks in advance

Jurgen
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  #2  
Old 11-11-2020, 10:15 AM
elev666 elev666 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Kincardine Ont,Can
Posts: 185
Default Same here

Hello Jurgen
I have the same problem here and I plan on stress relieving it like others locally have done to try and let The plastic relax on the frame once it is cut, This procedure came from the manufacturer of the plexiglass canopies down in Ohio, may be best to call Vanís and get their phone #
I have modified my finish kit box to become an oven to Slowly take the frame and trimmed canopy up to around 180* Fahrenheit and slowly bring it back down , this has worked for them and only needs a few nylon shims placed underneath the problem areas that remain ,
Good luck , Garry
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  #3  
Old 11-11-2020, 11:43 AM
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mburch mburch is offline
 
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Location: Northwestern USA
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Default

Jurgen - This looks just like what I saw with my canopy, so I think you will be okay. If you have a good fit everywhere except along the front of the sliding canopy frame, it should lay down and conform to the frame shape after you make the big cut. I was surprised by how much it relaxed after separating the two halves. Good luck! The big cut is an exciting milestone in the project.
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  #4  
Old 11-11-2020, 12:03 PM
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JoopSJ JoopSJ is offline
 
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Location: The Netherlands
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Default

Fully agree with the above.
Feel free to visit my place in The Netherlands if you want to see my project.
I just glued to main canopy.
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  #5  
Old 11-11-2020, 01:51 PM
motodave motodave is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Littleton, CO
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Default

Also in agreement, once you cut the windshield off the main canopy conforms to the frame nicely.... I did all my work including the Sika bonding my basement shop at about 68-70 degrees, I did not "add" any heat. Check my Flickr page for my photos.
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  #6  
Old 11-11-2020, 01:57 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
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Location: Southwest
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Default Is Flange On

It looks like you still might have the flange on around the outside. If so, I would suggest you cut that off and the try and refit. With the flange gone and the big cut done, my canopy had no trouble flexing to meet the bows.
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Fuselage Kit 98% done
Finishing Kit 35% canopy done for now
Electrical 65% in work
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  #7  
Old 11-11-2020, 02:45 PM
JurgenRoeland JurgenRoeland is offline
 
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Location: Belgium, Geraardsbergen
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PilotjohnS View Post
It looks like you still might have the flange on around the outside. If so, I would suggest you cut that off and the try and refit. With the flange gone and the big cut done, my canopy had no trouble flexing to meet the bows.
I was hesitating to have the side trimmed down as it's not very clear how much you can go down to still have enough plexi left to the rear sides of the windscreen section. I wanted to go as low as the bottom of the side bows but not sure if that is not too low on the windscreen side.
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  #8  
Old 11-11-2020, 03:14 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default Cut and trim

Quote:
Originally Posted by JurgenRoeland View Post
I was hesitating to have the side trimmed down as it's not very clear how much you can go down to still have enough plexi left to the rear sides of the windscreen section. I wanted to go as low as the bottom of the side bows but not sure if that is not too low on the windscreen side.
Not to sound condescending, but if the hole for the latch has been drilled, you're committed to the current position. Make the big cut and trim the sides per plan. It will be fine. The sides don't overlap the bow frame. If you do, the plexi will be wider than the fuse. There is a cutaway drawing showing the parts and location of the side edge of the plexi. It's accurate.
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  #9  
Old 11-11-2020, 05:16 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
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Location: Southwest
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Default In addition

Also, you need to decide how the plexi attaches to the side bows. With sikaflex, you can either us a big bead, or the side bow attach metal pieces. This makes a difference on the side trimming position. I just used a large sikaex bead and my canopy is kissing the side bows. I thought i would have 1/4Ē clearance but when the sika was dry, that gap disappeared.
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WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
Tail 98% done
Wings 98% done
Fuselage Kit 98% done
Finishing Kit 35% canopy done for now
Electrical 65% in work
Firewall Forward 5% in work
Fiberglass 0%, thought i was building in metal?
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  #10  
Old 11-12-2020, 02:02 AM
JurgenRoeland JurgenRoeland is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Belgium, Geraardsbergen
Posts: 128
Default

"The sides don't overlap the bow frame"

on the reply of Larry :
You mentioned a cutaway drawing, on which plan can I find this or is it somthing from the vans site ?
I understood the drawing on the plan for the side bows and how the plexi attaches there. I was more worried about the depth of cutting the front side where windshield is. I couldn't find a clear indication in the plans how low the plexi comes on the side curves of the front top fuselage skin.
The plexi has these three lines in which I assume are what they refer to as the molding marks. I guess I would be safe cutting until the bottom line of that (when the canopy is laying upside down)

on the reply of PilotJohnS :
I'm going the rivet way as in the plans.
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Last edited by JurgenRoeland : 11-12-2020 at 09:53 AM.
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