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RV-10 Engine out over KOCF

RNewman

Active Member
Monday afternoon at 7000 ft. right over KOCF on our way to Sun-n-Fun I had the opportunity to put all that engine-out training to work. The good news first: This was the best case possible, no one hurt, no airplane damage, flew the plane, declared emergency, landed on the paved runway, made the first taxiway. Guardian angle working overtime!!

Now for the important details that I believe can have a positive effect on others building or flying RV's.

Root cause of the engine failure was that the filtered airbox came off the throttle body, wedged under the intake portion of the throttle body and disrupted the airflow through the metering venturi. This caused the mixture to go way out of wack as the engine went to an extreme rich condition, I saw fuel flow rates pegged at >30 gph as soon as the event occurred.

My airplane is an RV-10 with a stock engine install and a stock cowling. I have the Airflow Performance fuel injection system with a vertical mount FM-200 fuel servo. This is the critical issue. The FM-200 uses an aluminum clamping doughnut to retain the filtered airbox assembly. This system does not use safety-wired bolts on the filtered side of the airbox, just this clamping doughnut. If the doughnut looses it's grip on the throttle body the whole filtered airbox can slide downwards and fall off, in this case that is exactly what happend. When we pulled the top cowling off, there in the bottom sat the entire filtered airbox, clamping doughnut and all.

Now for the fix: The filtered airbox bolts are located right underneath the mounting studs for the throttle body assembly. I simply replaced these bolts with drilled head bolts and made some drilled coupling nuts to put on the throttle body studs, there was plenty of extra threads exposed on these studs so I didn't have to make any changes to the studs or the nuts that hold the throttle body in place. Then just safety wire the whole thing together. I used 0.040 wire to tie each filtered airbox bolt up to the mounting studs. Below are pictures of the drilled nuts and the final installation.

Obviously I would highly recommend that if you have an Airflow Performance fuel injection system with a vertically mounted fuel servo you take a look at your installation and consider adding some securing means to ensure this thing can't come apart on your airplane. They key issue is that disrupting the airflow inside the fuel servo can make the engine STOP RUNNING!

Lastly, I've collected the flight data out of my AFS EFIS system which I just happened to have running at 2 second intervals. Its been very instructive to see exactly how the whole event played out. I could see my various attempts to get the engine to run properly by changing throttle positions and the hopeless lack of actual power. You could see the excess fuel just crater the EGTs, and now in hind sight I may have been able to get some power back if I had the insight to try and close the mixture radically. However, I can say with confidence my total focus after about 1 or so minutes of trying to get power was on flying the plane to a safe landing.... mission accomplished.

Bob Newman
N541RV 200 hrs

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Safe

Excellent report, Bob, and very thankful you, passengers, & plane survived the emergency unscathed.
 
Good job flying the plane!

It's extremely important when you install the ring that you leave the 4 attaching bolts on top loose until you have the ring bolt tight, then go back and tighten the 4 bolts on top. Tightening the 4 top bolts first will prevent the ring from actually clamping down on the throttle body. I also use locktite on all the bolts.

Your belt and suspenders approach certainly won't hurt.
 
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I added this brace to the airbox to give it some support and to (hopefully) prevent the prevalence of cracking the top plate. If the support ring loosens, hopefully this will keep it from dropping down.

IMG_3831-M.jpg
 
Good job flying the plane!

It's extremely important when you install the ring that you leave the 4 attaching bolts on top loose until you have the ring bolt tight, then go back and tighten the 4 bolts on top. Tightening the 4 top bolts first will prevent the ring from actually clamping down on the throttle body. I also use locktite on all the bolts.

Your belt and suspenders approach certainly won't hurt.

EXACTLY. It is not at all obvious that the order in which the bolts are tightened would make any difference, and failure to get this correct can result in power loss such as described in this thread. This warning should be permanently stamped into the FAB top plate as I can see this happening without such a favorable outcome.
Erich
 
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Nicely done, Bob. Glad everything worked out the way it did and thanks for the post.
 
I had the same thing happen to me in cruise, and was able to lean the mixture to keep it flying and get it to a runway. I secured it with safety wire and it has been good for 400hrs; definitely gets your attention.
 
Great job of flying and reporting - you set a great example for our community!

This sure seems like a great topic for an "Error Chain" article in Kitplanes if someone who experienced it wants to write it up.... ;)
 
Engine out

Hey Bob, glad to hear you're ok. Good job on getting safely on the ground. I'm working on the lower cowl so your post's timing is spot on. Thx for letting us know.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
 
I had ~ the same experience. Only in my case the airbox departed the plane and is somewhere over the NC landscape. It ran, but not great. It was no emergency in my case but it was time to land. The most frustrating part was paying for the new FAB and AFP ring parts!

Mine is now safety'd and I check it regularly.
 
I used this exact approach for carb'd

I added this brace to the airbox to give it some support and to (hopefully) prevent the prevalence of cracking the top plate. If the support ring loosens, hopefully this will keep it from dropping down.

IMG_3831-M.jpg

this same configuration is working well for me. 80 hrs.
 
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