What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Van's fuel valve... Hard to turn???

G

gasman

Well Known Member
Friend
In this post..... http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=348916&postcount=90 TOOBUILDER brought up ONE GOOD POINT. The fuel valve that Van's uses in their kits. Mine was tight and hard to change positions. I priced the Andair valve and then came back and tore apart my valve to see what was going on in there.

This is a great valve....... It is such a simple valve that almost nothing can go wrong with it. But it is hard to operate. I solved that problem in mine and now it works as smooth as the best gas valve out there.

Remove the handle, unscrew the top of the valve and remove the spring. SNIP OFF ONE LOOP bend the end level with the top of the spring and then reinstall. Do not use any fuel lube on the cone, install it dry. The spring had one too many loops and was causing it to "stack" and would force the cone too hard on to the seat.

You will like your new valve.................:)
 
Well, this is a new record.......... 12 hours and no comments.

Does this mean that this is a good mod? Or are people just tired of talking about fuel systems???
 
Ok, I'll bite. The never ending fuel valve.... :D

I had the old brass on brass valve and switched it out with Andair. Happy with Andair, it looks like a part off the space shuttle but many are also happy with the stock valve.
 
<<The spring had one too many loops and was causing it to "stack" and would force the cone too hard on to the seat.>>

You mean coil binding, ie spring coils in contact with each other?
 
I'm also using Van's fuel selector and am quite happy with it except it is sometimes very stiff switching from one position to another. The stiffness also prevents me from feeling the detent position so I'm not always sure the valve is centered on the position. The stiffness seems to come and go, one day it will be very stiff and the next day not so much.

So, I think perhaps your modification to remove one loop off the spring may be worth a shot. I don't recall exactly how the valve is constructed so my question is; if removing a loop from the spring causes the valve cone not to fully seat, what will the result be, possible air leak from empty tank, unable to fully shut off fuel, etc.? I think the modification is worth trying provided the possible problems it may create are identified.
 
Last edited:
Fuel Valve Hard to Turn

If the fuel valve had a both selector position there would be no need to turn it.:eek:

Ok I am out of here.

Barry VAF 1936
 
Last edited:
Hard to switch?

asav8tor said:
Ok, I'll bite. The never ending fuel valve.... :D

I had the old brass on brass valve and switched it out with Andair. Happy with Andair, it looks like a part off the space shuttle but many are also happy with the stock valve.
Click to expand...

How did the switch out go? Did you have to re-do some fuel lines? or are the inputs and outputs in the same location as the Van's valve? Thanks!
 
maybe it's the brand of avgas

I must have a fuel valve from the same production run as JC. Some days it is kinda stiff and on other days is turns easily. Although, I just bought Phillips avgas at Pullman, WA. The valve rotated exceptionally easy.
 
647jc said:
So, I think perhaps your modification to remove one loop off the spring may be worth a shot. I don't recall exactly how the valve is constructed so my question is; if removing a loop from the spring causes the valve cone not to fully seat, what will the result be, possible air leak from empty tank, unable to fully shut off fuel, etc.? I think the modification is worth trying provided the possible problems it may create are identified.
Click to expand...

To snip one coil from the spring will allow the valve to seat in with less pressure bus still remains leak free. It is a taper fit so the spring will still press the cone into the seat, just not as hard.

As DAN H. would say..... GASMAN...<<The spring had one too many loops and was causing it to "stack" and would force the cone too hard on to the seat.>>

DAN H......You mean coil binding, ie spring coils in contact with each other?
 
Last edited:
Though I never did the spring trick, I certainly disassembled that brass thing a number of times to clean, polish, lubricate, etc. No "fix" was ever very long lived. I purchased the Allen unit from Spruce, and it was the best $160 bucks ever spent. Smooth and with a positive detent, it's a great unit.
 
Bob Martin said:
How did the switch out go? Did you have to re-do some fuel lines? or are the inputs and outputs in the same location as the Van's valve? Thanks!
Click to expand...

On the older brass on brass the lines were not in the same location however I was able to bend the L/R feed lines and had to make a short new line for the out. Easier than I thought it would be.
 
Binding Fuel Valve

We had the same binding problem.
It was some fine what apeared to be cork material.
Cleaned it works well now.
 
I did the Andair mod to my -8 and love that valve. I like to know that the valve is in the proper position. I've had trouble with fuel valves in other airplanes before (most notably Bonanzas) and like the secure feeling I get with the Andair.

It took me a bit of thinking and bending tubing to do it because the ports are opposite the stock Vans valve. The left tank goes to the left side of the valve instead of the right side so you have to redo some plumbing but it was not too bad.
 
For those of you who want to use the Van's valve, I recommend you install bulkhead fittings where the fuel line runs through the F-983B-R&L (probably F-783B-R&L for the -7's) Cover Support Ribs. Then make some short tubing runs from those fittings to the valve.

Later, when (not if) you change out that valve you will simply have to remake those short fuel lines. Besides, it also simplifies your fuel lines.
 
Brass fuel valve stiff

This same brass valve was used in Rutan's airplanes and there were a lot of complaints about it getting stiff. I experienced the same thing in my Long-EZ.
When I started using TCP fuel treatment, the problem went away! Stop using TCP and the valve would get stiff again. I found TCP works wonders in keeping plugs clean AND it kept my brass valve working for 20 yrs.
 
rv9av8tr said:
This same brass valve was used in Rutan's airplanes and there were a lot of complaints about it getting stiff. I experienced the same thing in my Long-EZ...
Click to expand...


...And if the Spruce catalog is to be believed, the Allen unit became the replacement for Rutan's kits. I can't remember if it is an exact replacement, but it does have the same mounting pattern and port configuration as that brass thing. It was a simple change on the Hiperbipe. Perhaps it's a drop in for the RV's too... If all you need is L/R/off, it's a high quality, less expensive alternative to the Andair product.
 
I have about 200 hours on my Van's valve. It works just fine. It looks kind of industrial but that doesn't bother me because I hardly ever look at it.
 
Barry said:
If the fuel valve had a both selector position there would be no need to turn it.:eek:

Ok I am out of here.

Barry VAF 1936
Click to expand...


Sorry for revival of an ancient thread, but it was recently linked to a current post.. just wanted to point out that if you put a valve in a low wing plane that has a "Both" position, the first tank to suck air will continue to suck air..not a good idea! It would be like drinking from a glass with two straws in your mouth, and one straw is shorter. .when you get air in the short straw, no more liquid!
 
Both?

Taltruda, good post. You're exactly right. Even the Cessna 140 does not have a BOTH position on the fuel valve, even though it's a high wing airplane with all the fuel in two wing tanks. I'm told that if you want to add a BOTH position, you must first add a vent line connecting the two tanks, no small job. The original valve in our RV-6 started leaking thru the stem, so I disassembled it, planning to reseal the stem. Turned out it had a plastic spool turning in the brass housing and the plastic was brittle and cracked. ( ! ) We popped for an Andair and it's been perfect. One side needed some bending and tugging on the tube, but aside from that, the existing plumbing fit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top