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Mid Seat Rail Supports

flion

Well Known Member
Ok, I've looked until my eyes are blurry. On page 28-16, step 2, it says to put the seat rail supports aside until the gear legs are drilled. I assumed that meant the legs themselves as the supports would interfere, not drilling the mounts to the fuselage. But I went looking ahead at both spots plus the place where the mounts are bolted in (page 29-21) and eventually through all the plans and don't see where those supports ever get bolted on. I can guess - heck, I don't think it would be a major problem if they weren't added until the seat rails themselves. But I was also looking for the hardware callouts. Ok, I can guess at that, too, but I'd feel better if someone could tell me where I missed it in the instructions - or that I wasn't crazy and it was left out. Anyone?
 
I do not have the manual handy

but I think they do tell you to install them much later in the plans. The problem is attaching them once the gear mounts are in place is a royal pain. I do not know why they have you install them so late. I will see if I can tell what hardware I used when I get home if no one else can provide the info before then.
 
Not alone

I could not find it in the plans either. I didn't catch it until after my DAR inspection and I was putting everything back together. It was a little more difficult to install them with the forward and top seat box cover installed, but it still only took me about 20 minutes to install them at the very end. Just know they have to be installed and do it when it fits best into your work flow.

Eric Kallio
 
I did mine before gear mounts were installed...

much easier at that point. I may regret it when it comes time to ream the gear legs though.
 
much easier at that point. I may regret it when it comes time to ream the gear legs though.

1 year later, I've got my fuselage up on the gear, and no one has yet found the install instructions for these supports? I was assuming rivets are used, but not the easiest place to drive rivets. Offset is a bit more than my offset rivet set. Looks like maybe some screws or AN 3 bolts might be better?

Kelly
#40866
 
Kelly,
The step doesn't exist and they're bolted on. You might not recall, but you probably final drilled for the bolts back on page 28-16. I think I used four AN3-4's, maybe -5s, per rail that I had laying around to the job. As mentioned in this thread,
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=80336,

installation can be a pain in the rear. In my case, it was the outboard, aft bolt that gave me problems. The problem for me was getting the nut on and started. I finally used the dab of fuel lube on the finger trick to get the nut on the bolt and started. The others weren't much of an issue, other than due to the tight quarters it was slow going to get each bolt tightened.
 
Kelly,
The step doesn't exist and they're bolted on. You might not recall, but you probably final drilled for the bolts back on page 28-16. I think I used four AN3-4's, maybe -5s, per rail that I had laying around to the job. As mentioned in this thread,
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=80336,

installation can be a pain in the rear. In my case, it was the outboard, aft bolt that gave me problems. The problem for me was getting the nut on and started. I finally used the dab of fuel lube on the finger trick to get the nut on the bolt and started. The others weren't much of an issue, other than due to the tight quarters it was slow going to get each bolt tightened.

Thanks Todd. I have to check whether I did the final drilling or not. Makes sense. Shame that Van's never issues any corrections to the plans to fix such omissions.
 
Search for a thread on this subject that I think was started by Phil a couple months ago. It had some great photos on how to get those bolts installed without removing the skin on your knuckles.

As far as the manual goes, I think Van's did a great job on keeping the tail and wing manuals current and up to date, but started dropping things on the fuselage, and by the time you get to the finish kit you better be prepared to read between the lines on everything. That may have been their original intent in that you skills mature over the life of the build. But it sure would be nice to have the later manuals be as verbose as the earlier ones.
 
Kelly,

Sorry I did not get back about this. Secured with AN3's like everyone stated. I put them in whichever direction was easiest. Nutlates would have been best. I used a straight flute reamer from Avery with seat mounts in place no problem.
 
Y'know, I didn't even think of nutplates. I managed to work mine with hemostats to get them started but it wasn't a picnic. But if they ever come out, the nuts may get replaced with nutplates. Can anyone think of a good reason not to use nutplates there?
 
Kelly,

Sorry I did not get back about this. Secured with AN3's like everyone stated. I put them in whichever direction was easiest. Nutlates would have been best. I used a straight flute reamer from Avery with seat mounts in place no problem.

Thanks for all the replies. I had already final drilled mine, and just had to procure some AN3-3A bolts. I installed the most difficult one first, upside down, with the nut and washer on top. The rest I used a magnet to hold the nut and washer together and place by feel rather than corkscrewing my head to see what I was doing.
 
I don't understand what you guys are belly aching about. I just put all 8 of mine in the correct way last night. It took all of 1/2 hour. You need to by some hand glue from Wicks. Put a little dab on the end of your finger and the washer and it all stays together. :)
 
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