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Shelter in place silver lining? - Cowling Question

Bart

Well Known Member
While having a lot of time on my hands lately, my build has been progressing at a faster pace than when I was actually earning a living. I find myself at a point with no engine yet but the cowling just sitting there.

For the folks that are flying or past this point what are your concerns about my starting the initial cowling fitting with no engine? After brief look at the plans I feel like I can get at least a few pages into that section before I need an engine and prop.
 
No! You will regret it. You also need the propeller available to properly align the cowling fit. Every cowling needs to be trimmed to fit the unique engine/prop installation.

V
 
There are parts that you can do, initial fitting of the two halves and with the spare time, make that fit a perfect fit. Oil door can be worked on as well and perhaps even the inlet ears/ramps. But fitting the cowl to the fuse is not recommended.
I am not sure if you have finished the wheel pants and other fairing type as some leave those for last. Much of that can also be worked on.

Good luck
 
Maybe a little

I?m working on mine now (with engine on) and it looks like you could get through page 45-07 w/o the engine + plus a few later tasks like oil door.
Once to the point of fitting cowling - definitely need to wait till engine/prop installed.
 
I have put out several posts on things that you can do to keep busy while waiting for the engine. There are probably more than you think.

I can post links to threads that have suggestions if you are interested.
 
Definitely want the engine mounted. I had a 12 week lead time on my MT prop, but was able to rent the Flyboys cowling alignment tool to finish the cowlings without the prop. Worked out well. If your engine delay becomes excessive then maybe track down an engine core to borrow, you could temp. mount it for cowl fitting.
 
Engine core

I have a engine core (case with crank & hartzell CS hub) that I rent out at a very reasonable rate. It?s currently in the Houston area and should be available.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
 
I have put out several posts on things that you can do to keep busy while waiting for the engine. There are probably more than you think.

I can post links to threads that have suggestions if you are interested.


Ken, yes please do!
 
Here is a list of things from a previous thread:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=177474


Some of these might be repeats, but.....These are mainly additional things you might want to consider, but most cost money:
1.Replace the original cables for the vents with Locking push-pull lines for the air vents--this is critical to keep heat out of the cabin in the summer--or so I have read from Tim Olson
2. Replace plastic air vents with aluminum--well worth it.
3. Replace all pass thru with the ones from Aircraft spruce (https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...it12-04762.php). The one from vans are sharp and there needs to be one extra one. I put all wires thru a main central pass thru and the push pull controls through the stock pass thrus. I am concerned that the cables might need to be replaced at some point.
4. Finish the wheel pants--lots of pin holes to fill.
4. I have stock main wheels and a Berringer front wheel. The stock wheel will not allow one to put on the air cap--maybe van's changed that. I would consider all wheels Berringer.
5. I have not done this, but I still might. Change out the door latch for the one from JD Air. https://www.jdair.com/handles-latches/ This would have been much easier to do when assembling than after the fact. If I run out of things to do before coming out of COVID isolation, then I might just do this one.
6. Skybolt fasteners along the top cowl/FW intersection. Maybe piano hinges are fine, but these are very nice. If I were building again, I would put along the FW/bottom cowl intersection. I did not want to pull off the piano hinges along the sides after hanging the engine. The top forward skin was not in place, so these were easy to put in place
8. Install the rudder control from Aerosport (https://www.aerosportproducts.com/product/rudder-trim/) unless you put in a yaw servo.
10. make sure the coax cable supplied with the empennage kit is long enough for the transponder antenna (you probably won't know until the fuselage kit is done). Mine was too short. I had to order more coax any any, so I cut that one up for other uses. Or put the transponder antenna under the seats in the fuselage area and close off the hole in the back of the plane.
11. did you put in the ELT?
12. Did you put in the flap sensor kit?
13. Aileron trim kit?
14. install all the antennas and run the cables.
15. As stated above, I think that the inlet ramps on the upper cowl can be put in place.
16. make a mount for a fire extinguisher and for the tow bar (I think that there are threads on this somewhere.
17. install the glare shield into the canopy--if you have purchased one.
18. put in the forest of tabs.
19. Do you have the finishing kit? You can do a lot of the baffle assembly. 47-2 through 47-12 (except putting the baffles on the engine), 47-14--putting the threads on the SS pins, 47-21 and 22 (get the rough curve made)

just some thoughts.
__________________
Ken Stockman
 
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