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Installing SB 18-02-02

Tacco

Well Known Member
Starting this tomorrow, studying the instructions tonight.

What is the measurement on Figure 8 about center page ( ?1/2?). Looks like an arrow is missing(?). Looks like it refers to distance of forward hole to be drilled in WD-1027..but from what reference point? Also, in drilling these holes through the horn(6 of them), The intent appears to be to drill into the spar cap as well, even though these holes (in the spar cap) will not be filled with a rivet. Only the horn and the doubler will be riveted. I assume this is because of the difficulty in avoiding drilling HS-1232 and WD-1027 separated from the spar and the necessity of keeping the HS-1232 doubler aligned.

Steve
 
Starting this tomorrow, studying the instructions tonight.

What is the measurement on Figure 8 about center page ( ?1/2?). Looks like an arrow is missing(?). Looks like it refers to distance of forward hole to be drilled in WD-1027..but from what reference point? Also, in drilling these holes through the horn(6 of them), The intent appears to be to drill into the spar cap as well, even though these holes (in the spar cap) will not be filled with a rivet. Only the horn and the doubler will be riveted. I assume this is because of the difficulty in avoiding drilling HS-1232 and WD-1027 separated from the spar and the necessity of keeping the HS-1232 doubler aligned.

Steve

Good question about the "1/2" Steve. The two measurements needed for locating the holes in WD-1207 are already on the drawing. It looks like your assumption about the spar cap is correct. I don't see why the WD-1207 Stabilator Horn can't be removed, marked and drilled on the drill press. Then remounted, the HS-01232 put in place, match drilled and clecoed. Then just drill through WD-1207 just enough to mark the location of the holes in HS-01232. Remove HS-01232 and drill it on the drill press. That way the Spar Cap doesn't need to be drilled into.

I'm ordering my SB-18-02-02 and SB-18-02-03 kits today so will be anxious to see how this goes for you.

Jim
 
Starting this tomorrow, studying the instructions tonight.

What is the measurement on Figure 8 about center page ( ?1/2?). Looks like an arrow is missing(?). Looks like it refers to distance of forward hole to be drilled in WD-1027..but from what reference point? Also, in drilling these holes through the horn(6 of them), The intent appears to be to drill into the spar cap as well, even though these holes (in the spar cap) will not be filled with a rivet. Only the horn and the doubler will be riveted. I assume this is because of the difficulty in avoiding drilling HS-1232 and WD-1027 separated from the spar and the necessity of keeping the HS-1232 doubler aligned.

Steve

It looks like one of the lead lines accidentally got deleted from the figure, and will be corrected.
The measurement reference is intended to be the edge of the flange of the HS-1202.
Even without that reference, there is enough info to properly place the holes because the center hole can be seen aligned with the center hole in the HS-01232, and the outer two holes are equal distant from the center hole with the distance between them specified.
 
Good question about the "1/2" Steve. The two measurements needed for locating the holes in WD-1207 are already on the drawing. It looks like your assumption about the spar cap is correct. I don't see why the WD-1207 Stabilator Horn can't be removed, marked and drilled on the drill press. Then remounted, the HS-01232 put in place, match drilled and clecoed. Then just drill through WD-1207 just enough to mark the location of the holes in HS-01232. Remove HS-01232 and drill it on the drill press. That way the Spar Cap doesn't need to be drilled into.

I'm ordering my SB-18-02-02 and SB-18-02-03 kits today so will be anxious to see how this goes for you.

Jim

There is no structural concern about having the 6 unused holes in the top web of the spar box, but the process you described would be fine also....
as long as all 6 holes remain accurately aligned.
Even one poor fitting hole will degrade the benefits attained by the doubler.
 
when you remove the stabilator for this SB do you need to loosen the barrel lock on the cables to remove an replace or can you maintain that adjustment and confirm tension post install ? wondering if I need to order new barrel locking clips
 
when you remove the stabilator for this SB do you need to loosen the barrel lock on the cables to remove an replace or can you maintain that adjustment and confirm tension post install ? wondering if I need to order new barrel locking clips

It is possible to do the installation without loosening the cable tension but many people may find it easiest to first relieve the cable tension so they should also get new lock clips.
 
its not hard to install the stabilator if you are able to rest it on a surface that brings the hinges in line with the tail section. otherwise installing the washers is very tricky
 
Done. Followed the instructions except that I drilled the control horn off the stabilator on a drill press the reinstalled to match drill the doubler and spar cap. Pretty beefy compared to old configuration. Anyone see any obvious flaws?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/n9d2AAuGGy1yGD0J2

Looks great! I'm just getting started with mine (kit ordered). In fact the kits are presently backordered about 2 weeks.

I did the same as you. I pulled the control horns off and mounted them on my small mill and drilled the holes. When you drilled the doublers did you drill through the spar box? I'm thinking of just drilling into the doubler enough to mark them and then drilling them on the drill press to avoid drilling the spar box. Scott already said it's no big deal to drill it, but still might do it off the spar.

Jim
 
I drilled through the spar cap to ensure alignment. The risk of not doing it that way far exceeded the inconsequential effects of 6 #40 holes in the spar cap. Think of all the lightening holes in the spar! I was tempted though! BTW, a 12? #30 drill bit is helpful in removing the hinge rivets.
 
Done. Followed the instructions except that I drilled the control horn off the stabilator on a drill press the reinstalled to match drill the doubler and spar cap. Pretty beefy compared to old configuration. Anyone see any obvious flaws?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/n9d2AAuGGy1yGD0J2

Looks good! I haven't received my SB-18-02-02 parts yet. Do the HS-01231C Stabilator Hinge Gussets just go on top of the stabilator, as seen in the photo, or are there two additional gussets on the bottom, too?

Thanks,
 
What rivets did you use in the holes I circled in your inboard Hinge bracket assembly My eyes are not good enough to see in your picture. Figure 6 reads AN470AD3-3.5 4 places for inboard hinge and 2 places outboard hinge. Then install AN426AD3-4 in 2 places for the K1000-4 nut plate. Seems to me the two inboard holes on the inboard hinge bracket should get 426 rivets flush inside edge of the hinge, and not the 470 since they will be so close to the bearing when stab reinstalled. Just a thought I was going to ask Vans on Monday but thought I would run it by you since you have already done SB.

Thanks

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What rivets did you use in the holes I circled in your inboard Hinge bracket assembly My eyes are not good enough to see in your picture. Figure 6 reads AN470AD3-3.5 4 places for inboard hinge and 2 places outboard hinge. Then install AN426AD3-4 in 2 places for the K1000-4 nut plate. Seems to me the two inboard holes on the inboard hinge bracket should get 426 rivets flush inside edge of the hinge, and not the 470 since they will be so close to the bearing when stab reinstalled. Just a thought I was going to ask Vans on Monday but thought I would run it by you since you have already done SB.

Thanks

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Jeff, I'm doing this SB and am at the point of riveting these brackets together. Here's my take:
1). The holes you've circled in the picture don't look like they have rivets in them.
2). I made my Inboard Bracket using four AN470AD3-3.5 rivets as called out and the inner rivets clear the bearing no problem.
3). It seems like AN470 rivets would also work for attaching the nut plate to the outer bracket but will countersink and use the AN426AD3-4 rivets as called out, just to be safe.

Jim
 
Jeff, I'm doing this SB and am at the point of riveting these brackets together. Here's my take:
1). The holes you've circled in the picture don't look like they have rivets in them.
2). I made my Inboard Bracket using four AN470AD3-3.5 rivets as called out and the inner rivets clear the bearing no problem.
3). It seems like AN470 rivets would also work for attaching the nut plate to the outer bracket but will countersink and use the AN426AD3-4 rivets as called out, just to be safe.

Jim

I looked at it again and your correct the 470?s clear the bearing just fine. I put mine together per plans with the four 470 rivets.

Thanks for reply
 
Good call guys. Thank you. There should be four 470s on that hinge. I fixed mine today. Thanks!!
 
I installed the two back ribs the same way for a reason.
I wanted the hard side of the rib closer to the cantilever skin.

Was there a reason you did the same thing

Joe Dallas

That is not a picture of my stab it’s Tacco’s I copied it from the picture he posted earlier in the thread. I see what your asking about the two inboard forward ribs being reversed. I put mine in per plans the other way so Tacco would be the one to ask about the ribs.

This is mine
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Joe...........are you maybe referring to the front ribs? I did mine like Jeff, as the plans called for. It's interesting that the plans also call for the back ribs being the other way .....with the hard side out.

Jim
 
Yes the front ribs
My bad
A long day

Joe Dallas

Joe...........are you maybe referring to the front ribs? I did mine like Jeff, as the plans called for. It's interesting that the plans also call for the back ribs being the other way .....with the hard side out.

Jim
 
Yes the front ribs
My bad
A long day

Joe Dallas

Long here as well. These days it takes twice as long to get half as much done! :(

Anyway...........I'm certainly no aeronautical engineer, but I'm assuming that the front rib is oriented the way it is, is to gradually decrease to load on the skin. The question in my mind is why the same thing wasn't done for the aft rib.

Dang ............I wish I'd studied mechanical engineering in college instead of electronics engineering! :confused:

Jim
 
I built mine per the plans. I also thought it seemed a little unusual to have the flanges facing different directions, but I figured the designer had a good reason for doing it that way. Anybody know the reason?
 
A search of the forum seems to indicate the flanges are oriented outward for ease of riveting (driven rivets) and its not a structural issue. I paid close attention to rib configuration and flange direction on the wing because it mattered given other design differences of some ribs. Guess I missed it here. But hey, the holes lined up perfectly! Read the plans, read the plans ....read...:eek:.
 
Steve

The only reason I could come up with is that it would allow better access of your hand to install the Stabilator.

I installed them with the hard side out to better support the skin cantilever .

I now also think this will help support the outward hinge bracket ? ( THINK )

I am building EAB and I made a lot of changes that may or may not be better.

I received my SB kits and I will modified them as not to add the doubler on the skins.

The shear load on the outward hinge half can be handled by the wing skin.

This is not a recommendation to change Vans design.

I would think that vans will change this design for the new kits at some time in the future ?

The RV 12 will evolve.



Joe Dallas



A search of the forum seems to indicate the flanges are oriented outward for ease of riveting (driven rivets) and its not a structural issue. I paid close attention to rib configuration and flange direction on the wing because it mattered given other design differences of some ribs. Guess I missed it here. But hey, the holes lined up perfectly! Read the plans, read the plans ....read...:eek:.
 
Trimming the tailcone faring

I just finished my 18-02-02 install and had to trim the tailcone faring to get the full range of motion.

It also took us more than 8 hours to do the work. I guess we are slow.
 
I just finished my 18-02-02 install and had to trim the tailcone faring to get the full range of motion.

It also took us more than 8 hours to do the work. I guess we are slow.

You did fine Ben. I just finished the SB in 8 hours myself and mine wasn't even on the plane (new construction). Thanks for the "heads-up" about the Tailcone Fairing. I'll watch for that come install time.

Jim
 
Additional comments based on recent posts.....

HS-01231C should not be modified. To do so risks gaining the proper stiffness intended by the SB. One of numerous structural benefits of the part as designed, is that it makes a box structure by tying between the two hinge brackets.

Having all four 3/32 rivet holes riveted in each bracket is important. Do not leave the two holes used to attach the nutplate to the outboard bracket, open on the inboard bracket.

The reason the nutplate is installed with 426 rivets is because that rivet size is already in the kit for use on the HS-01232. Using them on the nutplate also, allowed for only two rivets to be in the SB kit, and since one is a 426 and one is a 470, they are easily identified. Very helpful when all parts are going into one bag.
 
Van's says "no big deal" with respect to the front rib orientation. Although I'm sure doing it per plans is preferred. BTW, I suspect the aft ribs are oriented the way they are because, if I recall correctly, there is a separate flange, riveted to the spar box, that they are riveted to. I'm not sure if you reversed them by mistake, that the holes would even line up.
 
Still in the dark

Steve

The six HS-1204 Ribs are symmetrical and they fit either way, I spent a lot of time to try to see why Vans reversed these ribs.

The center line of the rivets is the same each way.

The only difference is the hard side location.

I could not come up with any good reason so I installed them with the hard side out to help with the cantilever of the skins.

The only thing I could think of is for a little more room for your hands to install the stabilator.

If there is a good reason I would like to know it ?

Joe Dallas





Van's says "no big deal" with respect to the front rib orientation. Although I'm sure doing it per plans is preferred. BTW, I suspect the aft ribs are oriented the way they are because, if I recall correctly, there is a separate flange, riveted to the spar box, that they are riveted to. I'm not sure if you reversed them by mistake, that the holes would even line up.
 
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You?d probably have to run the designers stress analysis software to find out if there is any difference stress wise. My guess is that it makes no appreciable difference. I think access to the hinge fasteners is the likely reason. Having struggled a bit the get those nuts on, seems reasonable to me.
 
No, they are not in my kit and they are not on the inventory sheet. My kit was shipped on the 20th so they not have been including them at that time. I have several spares that I ordered during my build so it is not a problem.

Hal
 
I?m just starting the mod. A couple of things I noted:

1. I only loosened one control cable turnbuckle which I hope will allow me to reconnect with only having to wrestle in one set of turnbuckle clips.

2. When the paint shop painted my plane the heavy coat on the bolt and nut heads makes them not accept sockets or open end wrenches of the correct size, and the coat on the spar interferes with the doubler plate fit, so I will be investing in some paint stripper before I can disassemble and install the plates.
 
Hey Rich, why not disconnect at the HS horns and tie them together to keep them from slipping into the fuselage rather than messing with the clips? I?m in the reading/planning/? Phase.
 
Hey Rich, why not disconnect at the HS horns and tie them together to keep them from slipping into the fuselage rather than messing with the clips? I?m in the reading/planning/? Phase.

They are pretty near impossible to remove @ HS horns if you do not loosen at least one turn-buckle. This would likewise be a problem during reassembly.
 
Longer Cable Adjustment

Yes on the reinstall.
I believe the cable adjustment needs to be a little longer due to the spacer behind the hinge moves the Stabilator back a little ?

Your RV12 is now a little longer.
Unless Vans moved the bolt for the hinge back to adjust for the spacer.
Joe Dallas



They are pretty near impossible to remove @ HS horns if you do not loosen at least one turn-buckle. This would likewise be a problem during reassembly.
 
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Yes on the reinstall.
I believe the cable adjustment needs to be a little longer due to the spacer behind the hinge moves the Stabilator back a little ?

Your RV12 is now a little longer.
Unless Vans moved the bolt for the hinge back to adjust for the spacer.
Joe Dallas

They did move it!
 
SB 18-02-02 & Paint vs. Vinyl Wrap

I?m just starting the mod. A couple of things I noted:

1. I only loosened one control cable turnbuckle which I hope will allow me to reconnect with only having to wrestle in one set of turnbuckle clips.

2. When the paint shop painted my plane the heavy coat on the bolt and nut heads makes them not accept sockets or open end wrenches of the correct size, and the coat on the spar interferes with the doubler plate fit, so I will be investing in some paint stripper before I can disassemble and install the plates.

I am barely into my empennage kit, so painting is way off on the project list, but this SB caused me to bring-up a discussion with my friend, who?s much further along on his RV-12. This SB brought to my mind the subject of vinyl wrapping vs. paint? Love the claimed benefits of vinyl ? lower cost, shorter down time, less weight. Regarding this SB and Mr. Schaller?s comment concerning paint over the bolt heads making removal difficult, seems this would be another plus for vinyl. However? how does one detect a surface crack and stop drill it before it becomes a real issue with vinyl? And how would one remove a skin with vinyl? This seems to be a key negative I?ve not seen addressed. Anyone have experience here that can help to alleviate this perceived negative of vinyl wrapping?
 
installing SB 18-02-02

I received the SB kit today. There were no barrel clips in any of the bags and they are not listed on the parts sheet.

Also - the two K-1000 nut plates were missing as well as the 2 cotter pins.
 
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