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NAPA 1515 Gold oil filter

L

LarryT

Well Known Member
Yesterday I was in the local Battle Ground, WA NAPA store for some other items and inquired about 1515 oil filters, which have been posted on this website as a cost effective alternative to aviation labeled oil filters. The counterman was gracious enough to tell me that although there was no case discount, for two days each month the store ran an "oil filter sale." They even had a published schedule for the entire year.

On those two days, the 1515 Gold filter will be available for about $3.25 @

If you are interested in using these filters, you might consider contacting your local NAPA to see if they do the same thing as my BG store.

Larry Tompkins
N544WB -6A
W52 BG, WA
 
I have an IO-360-A3B6D which uses the 48103 filter (the filter threads onto the lug ON the engine). Since I saw in a previous thread that to use the 1515 filter on an engine that requires the 48110 filter you needed to remove the treaded lug from an old filter and put it on the NAPA filter, does that mean I should be able to use the NAPA filter directly with no mods?

That would be SWEET !
 
rv8bldr said:
I have an IO-360-A3B6D which uses the 48103 filter (the filter threads onto the lug ON the engine). Since I saw in a previous thread that to use the 1515 filter on an engine that requires the 48110 filter you needed to remove the treaded lug from an old filter and put it on the NAPA filter, does that mean I should be able to use the NAPA filter directly with no mods?

That would be SWEET !
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Mark Im not familiar with the 103 filter. I took a new 109 filter into NAPA and they matched it up very quickly. You should try that. The 109 filter, like your 103, is female thread the the male thread is on the engine side so yes, you can just screw it on with no fiddling of adapters. :D
 
Kahuna said:
Mark Im not familiar with the 103 filter. I took a new 109 filter into NAPA and they matched it up very quickly. You should try that. The 109 filter, like your 103, is female thread the the male thread is on the engine side so yes, you can just screw it on with no fiddling of adapters. :D
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Thanks, Kahuna.
 
You just take the nipple off the 48110 you are replacing and install it permanently in the filter adapter housing.
 
rocketbob said:
No and why the heck do you need to safety a filter. If its loose enough to rotate its too late.
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If properly installed and tensioned won't the safety wire help hold the filter in place? :confused: Granted, I have never had a spin on come loose on any vehicle I've owned. I like the hose clamp idea.:D
 
Actually there IS a way to safety wire an automotive oil filter.

Install a large "worm-gear type" hose clamp around the filter.
Safetywire the head of the screw to the engine.

The neat thing about this method is that you don't have to cut the safety wire each time. You simply loosen the screw, and retighten in the same place.
 
Yes its about the most common filter out there. Fits several different Fords, Jeeps, even several foreign makes.

I always torque these filters by hand (literally) until I'm grunting to do it. Every time I take one off it won't come off without the help of a strap wrench. Safety it if that makes you sleep better but IMO the idea behind safety wire is to prevent shoddy work from killing you.
 
rocketbob said:
I always torque these filters by hand (literally) until I'm grunting to do it. Every time I take one off it won't come off without the help of a strap wrench. Safety it if that makes you sleep better but IMO the idea behind safety wire is to prevent shoddy work from killing you.
Click to expand...

shoddy work...for example, hand torquing instead of using a torque wrench...lol.

safety wire is to prevent things from turning and coming loose, not simply to hold a loose item in place. You should not try to educate people against a safe practice.
 
CATPart said:
shoddy work...for example, hand torquing instead of using a torque wrench...lol.

safety wire is to prevent things from turning and coming loose, not simply to hold a loose item in place. You should not try to educate people against a safe practice.
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I have a calibrated arm that's good enough for tightening oil filters. I can show you two certified airplanes I own that have had shoddy work in the past signed off by professionals who I am sure are experts at safety wiring things, and it seems that's about it.

About a year ago I looked at a F1 Rocket a friend of mine was working on that had remnants of safety wire on the prop bolts which were loose because of improper torque. The hub was damaged and had to be replaced. Shoddy work that was safety wired.
 
I work in the industry too, and I can only agree with you that there are too many examples of bad work being signed off as good work. I will never forget the guy installing an S92 helicopter tail drive shaft using his calibrated arm aka german torque wrench. I dont mean to specifically knock you or your abilities as I know nothing about you. I just have strong feelings about this due to my observations in the field. My point still stands that we should not educate people to do the lesser safe thing. The torque is typically around 18-20 ft-lb, and it should have safety wire.
 
CATPart said:
I work in the industry too, and I can only agree with you that there are too many examples of bad work being signed off as good work. I will never forget the guy installing an S92 helicopter tail drive shaft using his calibrated arm aka german torque wrench. I dont mean to specifically knock you or your abilities as I know nothing about you. I just have strong feelings about this due to my observations in the field. My point still stands that we should not educate people to do the lesser safe thing. The torque is typically around 18-20 ft-lb, and it should have safety wire.
Click to expand...

Just as an FYI, oil filters are 16-18 ft lbs.

I rarely (almost never) use a torque wrench on an oil filter, I just use a wrench.
If someone has been doing maintenance for 20-30 years chances are they can hit a torque within 5-10%, a torque wrench is only accurate to 4% (if freshly calibrated).

I still torque critical items and spark plugs (hate to pull a heli coil out) but there are still many spark plugs (and lots other things) that youi simply cannot get a torque wrench on so you have to use an alternate method.
 
3/4 + turn after contact is within torque spec's, and far easier to do on an RV.

Just like it says on the Napa filter.........
 
happy gilmore quote of the day

CATPart said:
My lycoming overhaul manual says 240 in-lb which is 20 ft-lb.
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"owwwwwwwww, somebodies closer"

I bought a 1515 oil filter today to size up on my 8A. I have an airwolf remote mount that is on the lower starboard side of the firewall, the 1515 is about 1.5 inches too long, is there an equivalent napa filter to the 1515 that is 1.5 to 2 inches shorter that I can use. After I put it on by hand, turn it tight till I am satisfied, I will be moving on with my life, the end!

Randy
8A
 
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Thanks Walt, those are good links. The old torque specification is still ok per that champion SB you linked, so maybe the lycoming manual is still good this time. But this is all good information to have out there, and the moral stands true, follow the specs. Of course my lycoming manual is probably out of date haha.
 
N208ET said:
"owwwwwwwww, somebodies closer"

I bought a 1515 oil filter today to size up on my 8A. I have an airwolf remote mount that is on the lower starboard side of the firewall, the 1515 is about 1.5 inches too long, is there an equivalent napa filter to the 1515 that is 1.5 to 2 inches shorter that I can use. After I put it on by hand, turn it tight till I am satisfied, I will be moving on with my life, the end!

Randy
8A
Click to expand...

Yep...... 1068 is just a shorter version of the 1515. Much more filter area on the 1515.

That information and torque spec's are all here in the above posts. If you are going to run a Napa Gold filter, I would suggest that you start from post 1 and read to here..... Lot of good information. Don't miss any "go to" links.....
 
Sweet

gasman said:
Yep...... 1068 is just a shorter version of the 1515. Much more filter area on the 1515.

That information and torque spec's are all here in the above posts. If you are going to run a Napa Gold filter, I would suggest that you start from post 1 and read to here..... Lot of good information. Don't miss any "go to" links.....
Click to expand...

Thank you, I will do that!

Randy
8A
 
I know some folks will scoff at my conservative attitude, but...
There's no way I'm going to use an automotive filter on my (or anyone elses) aircraft just to save $15.

If that sucker fails you just toasted your 25k+ engine not to mention it may really ruin your day.

Just my 2c
 
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Walt said:
I know some folks will scoff at my conservative attitude, but...
There's no way I'm going to use an automotive filter on my (or anyone elses) aircraft just to save $15.

If that sucker fails you just toasted your 25k+ engine not to mention it may really ruin your day.

Just my 2c
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I agree with Walt on this issue, an oil filter is a bad place to get cheap. If you are really interested in using automotive filters, I suggest you spend a few minutes cutting an auto filter and an aircraft filter apart. The NAPA Gold filter, manufactured by Wix for NAPA, is one of better auto filters on the market but when you go inside you will see the differences in amount of filter media and metal thickness. Here is an interesting, non-scientific article on filters the interchange with a NAPA 1515:

http://www.austincc.edu/wkibbe/oilfilterstudy.htm

John Clark ATP, CFI
Aviator & Gearhead
FAAST Team Representative
EAA Flight Advisor
RV8 N18U "Sunshine"
KSBA
 
Convenience. If I go and order a filter right now from Spruce its roughly $35 with shipping, might get here in 3 days. That really sucks when its Friday night and you're changing oil and that 48110 on the shelf you had disappeared. Why do that when I can use a proven, durable, locally sourced filter that is better (yes better) for about $4.00+tax, and have it in my hands in less than 15 minutes.

A reasonable inspection of the filter prior to installing it will go a long way in making sure it is safe to use.

A Rotax 912 uses an automotive filter, why is that not of any concern to you?

Why not drive around with an aviation filter in your car if costs of the filters are of no consequence to you?
 
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rocketbob said:
Convenience. If I go and order a filter right now from Spruce its roughly $35 with shipping, might get here in 3 days. That really sucks when its Friday night and you're changing oil and that 48110 on the shelf you had disappeared. Why do that when I can use a proven, durable, locally sourced filter that is better (yes better) for about $4.00+tax, and have it in my hands in less than 15 minutes.

A reasonable inspection of the filter prior to installing it will go a long way in making sure it is safe to use.

A Rotax 912 uses an automotive filter, why is that not of any concern to you?

Why not drive around with an aviation filter in your car if costs of the filters are of no consequence to you?
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First, I plan ahead and buy more than one filter at a time, saves on shipping and you can usually get a price break.

A rotax is not relying on as much oil cooling as the Lycoming is, less flow to filter and the factory tested and approved the filter.

Same answer on the car remark. I used to own a Porsche 911, large oil capacity and lots of flow because of the "oil cooling" involved. Guess what, the filters are about the same price as aircraft units.

I don't doubt that the automotive filters will work, but I have a problem with using up some of my safety margin to save $25. a year.

John Clark ATP, CFI
Aviator & Gearhead
FAAST Team Representative
EAA Flight Advisor
RV8 N18U "Sunshine"
KSBA
 
I assume you change your oil more than once a year, most people change it about 4x a year I would guess...so really the savings is about 100.00 a year.
 
John Clark said:
I don't doubt that the automotive filters will work, but I have a problem with using up some of my safety margin to save $25. a year.
Click to expand...

What safety margin? Where do you get your data to make this decision?

Is it the same sort of safety margin a B&C alternator buys you?

Or an aviation spark plug over an automotive one?

You use a K&N automotive air filter in your RV in a critical function, but that's not FAA/PMA approved...so why not switch the design to to a Brackett approved filter that costs more? Why is this acceptable but an automotive oil filter is considered inferior?

My point is your spending the extra $$ on a filter isn't really buying you anything more safe. Spend your money as you wish, for me the difference in cost buys me a little bit of mogas. Oh wait that's not safe either, I digress.
 
oil filters

I've watched this thread the last few days.........I try to stay out of arguments, but I'll have to go with Rocketbob.........I always have. Plenty of good common sense in that old boy!!!!! Some people strain at a gnat and swallow the elephant whole. Go figure..........Geeez.
 
miyu1975 said:
I assume you change your oil more than once a year, most people change it about 4x a year I would guess...so really the savings is about 100.00 a year.
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Not really, the "good guy" price on a proper filter is around $20, the usual retail on a NAPA 1515 is around $6, although the list price is $10.82 :eek: So the cost of my peace of mind is $28. a year, based on a 100 hours a year and 50 hour oil changes, per the Lycoming manual.

John Clark ATP, CFI
Aviator & Gearhead
FAAST Team Representative
EAA Flight Advisor
RV8 N18U "Sunshine"
KSBA
 
Find two 1/4-16 thin nuts, screw them on the nipple, using as a jam nut..unscrew the nipple. Hope that makes sense.
 
Ryan means 3/4-16. The other option is to bandsaw the bottom plate close to the nipple with two cuts, twist that piece off and it will come right out.

On my list of things to do is CNC mill a filter adapter that is facing the right way (down) to make oil changes truly easy no mess affairs. Whoever came up with the right-angle filter adapter facing up should be waterboarded, sleep deprived, while forced to listen to Barry Manilow.
 
Do any of the filters we use have anti-drain back valves? Should they have them? Seems like the oil would get where it needed to go alittle quicker if it wasn't filling the filter.
 
Hidden Talents ?

Whoever came up with the right-angle filter adapter facing up should be waterboarded, sleep deprived, while forced to listen to Barry Manilow.
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Bob, sounds like you have some talents you haven't told us about
and I do agree with you.

I've been following the oil filter thread for some time and I can't get myself to roll over just yet.
Don't know why, I use automotive spark plugs, electronic ignition, automotive
air filter and mogas with ethanol.
I heard of only one failure from one of these filters due to a manufacturing defect. Can't find the thread though.
Got to take another look at that Napa Gold 1515.
 
Walt said:
I know some folks will scoff at my conservative attitude, but...
There's no way I'm going to use an automotive filter on my (or anyone elses) aircraft just to save $15.

If that sucker fails you just toasted your 25k+ engine not to mention it may really ruin your day.

Just my 2c
Click to expand...

I couldn't agree more, and it is not a saving of $15 but $7 if you buy the Napa on sale.

For two or three times a year that one would replace their oil filter, this is about 3-4 gallon of fuel. Not worth it to me.
 
rocketbob said:
snip.. Whoever came up with the right-angle filter adapter facing up should be waterboarded, sleep deprived, while forced to listen to Barry Manilow.
Click to expand...

Wait, hold on, what's wrong with Barry Manilow!!! Have you not been to the Copa? :) Aren't you in love with Mandy? :rolleyes: Can you smile without me??? :D C'mon, he's a classic!!! :p At least for my generation... :eek:
 
I'm with Mr. Aronow and Mr. Clark on this. I will not use an automotive oil filter on my airplane or anyone else's airplane I assist with. I have discussed this with many people whose opinion I trust: Jay Wickham (2nd generation owner of Mattituck), Phil Haponic (ex-QA manager of Mattituck), Mahlon Russell (ex-Production Manager of Mattituck), and Ron Monson (owner Performance Engines at KPOC). I keep 2 filters on the shelf at my hangar at 8S1 and 2 in the KPOC hangar. Aircraft Spruce is a 20 minute drive from my SoCal home so I'm never out of oil or filters.

I cut open all of my used filters and wash out the media to see what's going on, and have cut automotive filters apart (not the NAPA) and have made a conscious decision to not take a chance. I won't even use the Tempest filters; Champions only for me. I have over 4,000 hours in homebuilts (with 1,000+ of that IFR/IMC) and intend to fly many more hours/years. I will not worry about the oil filter or subject my passengers or myself to unnecessary/avoidable risks.

I like to save a few $ as much as the next guy, but it won't be on oil filters.

deek
 
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Wasn't it that long ago when aircraft engines didn't even use an oil filter?
Is it the price that makes an aircraft filter better or just the perception?
Surely the number of pleats in the filter or filter area can't be the deciding factor for using an aviation filter, as I said oil filters are relatively new for aviation engines.
Feeling better about it is the only good reason I see from people using aviation hardware.
Still using Champions for now
 
48103

Has anyone found an acceptable replacement for the 48103?

It had 13/16 - 16 female threads and is the short filter (~4 1/2" long).

I found a NAPA 1258 that has the correct dimentions but the Napa specs say NONE on the bypass valve.
 
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