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  #11  
Old 03-30-2018, 07:56 AM
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Pmoran Pmoran is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Onalaska, Wisconsin
Posts: 42
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Thanks Steve,
I was able to get an (1/8") plexi bit from a local plastic shop in West Salem, but I really appreciate your very kind offer.
Pat
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  #12  
Old 03-30-2018, 09:01 AM
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Pmoran Pmoran is offline
 
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Location: Onalaska, Wisconsin
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Jim, Larry, Rockwooddrv9, Karl, Steve B & Steve S, Mike, Bob and Alex thank you each for the advice, suggestions, and support.
I really appreciate the information and as I've said in the past, this website is an incredible source of information.

Karl - I'm unfamiliar with Weld On #3, however I understand that it is an acrylic cement but is it compatible with our canopy and windshield? I'd prefer to use that over the plastic fix used in the repair of the 8 canopy that was featured in the thread link that Mike provided.
My confidence is low using plasti fix, however the Weld-On #3 seems straight forward.

I appreciate all comments and suggestions.
Thanks,
Pat
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  #13  
Old 03-30-2018, 11:44 AM
ultimate10201 ultimate10201 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 27
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In the Dallas area (McKinney) back in mid December we had a night that dropped to the mid teens.

Result was my slider canopy had a crack perpendicular to the mid-canopy tube radiating out about 7 or 8 inches each side running through the 4th pop rivet.

I stop drilled each end with a #30 acrylic bit and then applied bookbinder tape over the cracks on each side inside and out as smoothly and carefully as I could, and tried to avoid air pockets in the tape.

No one notices it unless I tell. I don?t notice it too much because my Koger shade covers it, but it makes odd shadows on the shade...

Still, I know it?s there and I had that miserable feeling when I first saw it, and I continually monitor it and fret over it.

Subsequently, when we had some really cold nights and days (for North Texas) early in January, I left a 40 watt bulb plugged in for several days, dangled in the cockpit more or less, hung from the canopy handle. Also covered the canopy with a heavy moving blanket and an old bedspread. Not sure if that was useful, but no more cracks developed.
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  #14  
Old 03-30-2018, 11:53 AM
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Infidel Infidel is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: WV22
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I found myself in almost the same boat as you described last winter, discovering a 2" crack during preflight. I immediately stop drilled it and it's remained the same ever since. I've been waiting on warmer temperatures so I can repair it.
I just checked out the "Weld On #3" product as suggested and from what I can gather, it's very thin liquid. The reviews on Amazon boast it's great for welding/gluing pieces together but I couldn't find any info to suggest how it would be for filling a #40 or 1/8" hole.
Watching intently hoping some with experience will chime in. 👍🏻
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  #15  
Old 03-30-2018, 12:01 PM
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Gash Gash is offline
 
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I haven't used the Weld On #3 yet, but the brain trust at the airport here says it's the right stuff to use on these cracks. I'm told it's very "watery", so be sure to tape underneath during application.
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  #16  
Old 03-30-2018, 01:06 PM
jklusman jklusman is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Lafayette, IN
Posts: 11
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My -8 had a stop-drilled 1" crack in the rear area of the canopy edge when I bought it. During the 3rd winter of my ownership it cracked another inch beyond the stop drill, so I had it stop-drilled again. I was going to glue it with Weld-On 3 when I noticed that the crack widens slightly at the edge in cold weather and narrows again in warmer weather. I've read that these canopies have stresses in places that can't be predicted because of the way they are manufactured. A photo on this site showed a crack that started and ended well away from the canopy edges. So, I'm considering leaving the crack as it is and covering the area with my EAA or AOPA decal, which is how it was originally covered.
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  #17  
Old 03-30-2018, 01:14 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gash View Post
I'm told it's very "watery", so be sure to tape underneath during application.
I would recommend against doing that.

The best application method is to use a syringe with a small needle.
Apply small amounts at the top working your way along the crack.
Because it is about the same viscosity as water, it will wick into the crack via capillary action. You can see when the crack is filled in an area because it changes the light reflection properties when the crack is filled.

It shouldn't drip if you only apply enough to fill the crack.

If you tape the bottom of the crack, depending on how resistant the tape and adhesive is to the chemicals in the weldon-3, it may wick out of the bottom of the crack and under the surface of the tape.
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  #18  
Old 04-01-2018, 06:17 AM
Boyd Birchler Boyd Birchler is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: IN
Posts: 254
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Have stop drilled plexiglass cracks at least 20 times. Never had a problem. Always used a 1/16" bit. Drill past the visible end of the crack 1.5 time the bit diameter. Use something like the end of a wood dowel rod on the opposite side to back up as you drill and drill with very light pressure. I have used silicone to fill the hole,but prefer super glue or thick gap filling version of super glue.

Be careful not to drill at the visible end of the crack, because the crack can continue as you start drilling and go past where you are, so that you would not be at the end of the crack.
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  #19  
Old 04-01-2018, 09:55 AM
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Gash Gash is offline
 
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Location: Goodyear, Arizona
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Thanks for the advice Scott. You make a very good point! I will do it like you describe.
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  #20  
Old 04-01-2018, 11:14 AM
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kentlik kentlik is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
I would recommend against doing that.

The best application method is to use a syringe with a small needle.
Apply small amounts at the top working your way along the crack.
Because it is about the same viscosity as water, it will wick into the crack via capillary action. You can see when the crack is filled in an area because it changes the light reflection properties when the crack is filled.

It shouldn't drip if you only apply enough to fill the crack.

If you tape the bottom of the crack, depending on how resistant the tape and adhesive is to the chemicals in the weldon-3, it may wick out of the bottom of the crack and under the surface of the tape.
I wholeheartedly agree! It will be a mess under that tape...
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