What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Wintertime cabin temp

E

echowhiskey

Member
I recently acquired a 6a from AZ.
It is heated through oil cooler
I have installed weatherstripping around that canopy. But when its 30F or less, she gets cold, in cruise.

Is the oil cooler heater for more temperate environments?
It seems the solution is to swap out to traditional heat muff. Are there any other solution to get more heat?
 
The oil cooler's heat output will always be lower than what you can get from an exhaust heat muff. Worse, in the winter, your oil isn't as hot as in the summer, so you see a further reduction in the heat output.

So, yes, swap to a conventional heat muff. You'll be a lot warmer.
 
I have an oil cooler heater in my 9A and I live in the Seattle area where we see in flight temps of 30 degrees or less frequently (depending on your altitude). The key to keeping the airplane warm is keeping the oil warm. If the oil temperature is less than 180 the vernatherm will stay closed meaning very little warm oil to the cooler to warm up your heating air. If you can't keep your oil temperature above 180 then the heat muff on your exhaust is the way to go.
 
Mufflers if you actually want heat. Common complaint from GIB is to "turn it down...
 
I would add an exhaust heater in addition to the oil cooler heater. My cabin still gets a little chilly in winter with just one exhaust heater at altitude sub-zero cruise. You probably want your oil temp higher as well.
 
Last edited:
Zuldarin said:
I have an oil cooler heater in my 9A and I live in the Seattle area where we see in flight temps of 30 degrees or less frequently (depending on your altitude). The key to keeping the airplane warm is keeping the oil warm. If the oil temperature is less than 180 the vernatherm will stay closed meaning very little warm oil to the cooler to warm up your heating air. If you can't keep your oil temperature above 180 then the heat muff on your exhaust is the way to go.
Click to expand...

I've always wondered why we seem to need oil cooler shutters with the vernatherm that should keep the temp at 180 or above with or with out a shutter during cold temp ops. Does this suggest a bad vernatherm? In theory, if the vernatherm is working as designed, a shutter would be pointless.
 
Northernliving said:
I've always wondered why we seem to need oil cooler shutters with the vernatherm that should keep the temp at 180 or above with or with out a shutter during cold temp ops. Does this suggest a bad vernatherm? In theory, if the vernatherm is working as designed, a shutter would be pointless.
Click to expand...

I don't think the Vernatherm actually stops all oil flow, just throttles it significantly.
 
Along with sealing the canopy, try to source all the little air leaks into the cockpit. Around gear leg openings, there might be air gaps under the fairings, under the seat there are usually large openings, install a bellows type seal in the aileron linkage rods to side fuselage, seal off the wire runs. The wing spars are big sources of air leakage, seal them off where they fit through the side fuselage, under the wing fairings. The rear baggage bulkhead can be a major source depending on how well you sealed off everything else, don't totally seal it off as it also acts as an exit vent for warm air you are trying to draw in through your heat duct. If you have a slider, the rear canopy skirt can be the hardest but most beneficial to be sealed properly.
 
I have already sealed off the canopy and that made a huge difference, But posters have confirmed my suspicion. Without a heat muff, I am never going to get there. I just finished installing a dynon ems so this may be a fall project.

Thanks for all the feedback!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top