What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

New Titan Kit

A

Aden Rich

Well Known Member
I just received my new ECI Titan kit today. I unpacked it all and looked inside. WOW, lot's of parts. Nothing more than I am used to but I usually bought all my parts in stages when I was rebuilding my engines. It's so nice not to have to chase down parts all over the country. The quality is very nice as well. I was thinking of putting together a detailed engine building electronic folder documenting the build and the how to put together the engine. If some of you are interested and it would help you get the bug to build one on your own then I would consider putting in the extra time to document it in detail besides just pictures. Maybe this help those out there that want to build one but think it's too complicated.

Doug: would you be willing to give some ideas on how I could accomplish this. Thank you, Aden Rich.
 
Last edited:
Definately concidering buying an assemble it yourself kit.

Who did you buy yours from/thru?
 
Please document it!

Aden Rich said:
... I was thinking of putting together a detailed engine building electronic folder documenting the build and the how to put together the engine. If some of you are interested and it would help you get the bug to build one on your own then I would consider putting in the extra time to document it in detail besides just pictures. Maybe this help those out there that want to build one but think it's too complicated.

Doug: would you be willing to give some ideas on how I could accomplish this. Thank you, Aden Rich.
Click to expand...
Aden, I believe the easiest way is to go to http://www.blogger.com/ and sign up. It's free, and you can then put up whatever you like, pictures, text etc. It's very easy to do.

This would be very useful to have this information. It would be a real asset to lots of builders, so I hope you are able to take the time to do this.

BTW, does this option save money, or is it a learning experience? I'm trying to decide on an engine right now, so I appreciate the info.

Best regards,
Mickey
 
ECI Titan O-360

I'm considering letting this engine go for what I have into it. Let me know if there's any interest.

titan2.jpg
 
WOW!, OK I'll DO IT!

Thanks for all of the responses. I will try to do my best with getting this thing started here pretty soon. I want it to be a tool that anyone can turn to so they can build there own. I am not an expert at building engines but between my Dad and I, we have built/overhauled about 8 engines, all Lycomings. 2 of them were IO-540's, the rest 4 cyl Lycomings.
The reason I am building this kit engine is 1: to save money, 2: to know what I have into what I will be flying around, 3: to have fun and learn something, 4: to help someone else build one if that is what they want to do.
I got this kit from Aerosport Power. I paid a little over 17K for it shipped down to Bremerton, WA. I changed the kit around a little buy going with the forward facing sump. That added about 1,500 more onto the ECI kit. I also got the Mags, and harness along with HP fuel pump. For this same engine it would cost about 24K assembled with all of the assy. I still have to buy the AFP fuel injection but I have everthing else. I will end up with about 21K into the total engine when it's done. This will save me about 3K. Doesn't sound like much but it 3K more for me to spend on something else!
 
ECI Titan Kit

I've signed up undere Blogger.com. It's under ECI Titan Kit. I will try to start posting tonight. Let the fun begin.
 
I wish I had documented my engine build for others to see .
I am flying my 40 hours off of my ECI IO360A1A1N I bought it from Jesse at Areo and assembled myself. If someone that is not an AP ,like me, wants to build his/her engine I would recommend getting a few resources.
1 Lycoming overhaul manual.
2 Lycoming parts manual.
3. A overhaul video.
The video was by far the most valuable to me. They touch on some things that were not spelled out in the overhaul manual and made the entire process allot easier. I got mine from.
http://www.actechbooks.com/products/act5011/
Chad
 
cholladay said:
I wish I had documented my engine build for others to see .
I am flying my 40 hours off of my ECI IO360A1A1N I bought it from Jesse at Areo and assembled myself. If someone that is not an AP ,like me, wants to build his/her engine I would recommend getting a few resources.
1 Lycoming overhaul manual.
2 Lycoming parts manual.
3. A overhaul video.
The video was by far the most valuable to me. They touch on some things that were not spelled out in the overhaul manual and made the entire process allot easier. I got mine from.
http://www.actechbooks.com/products/act5011/
Chad
Click to expand...
Chad,
Thanks for the link, I just ordered the OH Video.
 
Manuals On-line

cholladay said:
I wish I had documented my engine build for others to see .
I am flying my 40 hours off of my ECI IO360A1A1N I bought it from Jesse at Areo and assembled myself. If someone that is not an AP ,like me, wants to build his/her engine I would recommend getting a few resources.
1 Lycoming overhaul manual.
2 Lycoming parts manual.
3. A overhaul video.
The video was by far the most valuable to me. They touch on some things that were not spelled out in the overhaul manual and made the entire process allot easier. I got mine from.
http://www.actechbooks.com/products/act5011/
Chad
Click to expand...

You might finde the Superior Vantage Manuals easier to read since they were not written in the 50's (or earlier?) like the Lycoming ones.

http://www.superiorengines.com/vantageManuals.asp

Also, the ECI hardware manual is very pictorial and really good for identifying exact hardware needed and any associated torque values.

http://www.eci2fly.com/exp/hardwaremanualM300.pdf

Since both engines are essentially Lycoming clones made from parts - the Vantage engine is certified, the ECI engine has certified parts except for the EXP cylinder assemblies - the manuals are directly applicable.

gil A - planning on an ECI kit OX-360-B1B1N
 
Last edited:
Please educate me on this Blog stuff.

Hi gang: Sorry for my ignorance, but I'm trying to follow along on the blog and can't seem to find it.

I've been to Blogger.com but don't see where to look for the ECI Titan kit blog. Wants me to create my own.

Looking forward to following along. I'd really like the IO-340 kit, but I'm concerned about the 100 LL restriction. May have to go with the IO-320 which will give more fuel choices in the future.
 
ECI Titan

I've been posting blogs and they are updating.
If you can't get in try my login
[email protected]
password
Rvator74!
Please don't post anything or change anything or post, this is total access to my account!
I have not posted for about a week because I have been painting all of the parts. This is a very boring process since I have been painting by hand with a brush. TWO COATS!!
I bought POR-15 Engine Enamel-High Heat
The engine is silver and the barrels will be gloss black, along with some other parts.
I just masked off the cylinders yesterday and sprayed them. Tomorrow I will spray the black.
Don't worry I have assembled anything big yet. I will get the crank mounted on the engine stand on Monday and start having at it. I will document in detail and post pictures. I will also try to find out why my blog in not on the site. Tootles!
 
Hey, thanks a LOT for creating this blog. This is really interesting.

How many hours--roughly--do you think it will take to build?
 
Thanks!

c177tx said:
Aden here is a safer way, just post this link and people will be able to look at your blog with out giving out your password.

http://ecititankit.blogspot.com/
Click to expand...



I have put the bottom half of the engine together. It took most of yesterday to do. I took a million pics of the process and will post to the blog later today. I have to run into town and get some paint for the cylinder head and misc part. Actually I am going to have the local paint shop make me a spray can of my gloss black. I have a spray gun but it's so much time to clean up all of the gun parts and it takes a lot of thinner to get it all clean. Plus I have to get all of the parts ready at once and I just to have that kind of space right now. I want to be able to take a part out and just give it a quick coat without all of the other hassel. I used my 3M cup system on the silver on the heads and it worked good in all of the angles I had to get into.
I will say this about putting the bottom engine together. Make sure you have all day to fuss with it to make it all come together right.
 
More pics posted

More pics posted to the blog. Use the above address to get there. Hope it helps you out. Thanks, Aden.
 
ERRATA in ECI Hardware Manual!

Aden,

I posted a comment on the Blog... I was installing my oil pump in the accessory case and was torquing the bolts to 204 in/lbs as specified in the ECI Hardware Manual when one broke! I immediately called Jesse at AERO who then had me call JB at ECI. According to ECI, the 204 in/lbs torque in the Hardware Manual is wrong!!! It should be 150 in/lbs as specified in the Lycoming Overhaul Manual.

ECI will be correcting the error on the Hardware Manual ASAP but also mentioned a couple of other errors as well. I have the other errors noted in my Hardware Manual but it is in my shop. Just make sure that you compare all torque specifications in the ECI Hardware Manual with the Lycoming Overhaul Manual and where they differ, go with the Lycoming value.
 
WHAAAT

I noticed that several of the ECI manual torque settings are higher than Lycomings overhaul manual. I could only torque mine to about 160-180 in/lbs due to the castle nuts not lining up with the drilled bolt holes. I tried washers and various other castle nuts but nothing would work. I even tried to turn the stud but it was in there really tight. I was afraid of breaking the stud off so I left it and just torqued it down in that range. That's weird that the stud broke. Lycoming normal torque range for a 5/18-18 bolt is 204 in/lbs which is what I have used on all of the other engines. Thanks, for the update and I will compare settings from now on. Aden.
 
More pics added

I have installed all of the assy (except mags) and put the sump on. Now onto the cylinders. I will be putting these together from scratch. No cylinder kits here. All the valves have to be installed as well as the pistons. Lapping compound, ring pliers, and spring compressors oh my!!!
 
Ring gap

Be advised that Lyc and ECI use different values for the ring gap with ECI being the smaller of the two. Lyc's nonimal value is at the top of ECI's tolerance. I don't recall specific numbers (it's been almost a year ago) but I had to download the .pdf from ECI for their dimension. The ECI rings fell right on nominal right out of the box. Just a bit of edge break needed at the gap faces.

Steve
N345SF
 
Ring gap

Steve,
Thank you for the post. I will give them a shout tomorrow and find out what it needed. There is not much information on how the engine is suppose to go together. I have Superior and Lycoming manuals but it sounds like they are all a little different. I am learning a lot along the way. Thanks, again. Aden Rich.
 
If anyone in the seattle area needs help on one of these engines let me know.

That stud should not have broke at that torque setting. I have noticed that in aircraft applications bolt torques are alot lower than a standard SAE torque and no wonder saftey wire or cotter pins are required. In automotive apps I consistantly torque 5/16 -18 to 20 ft lbs or 240 in lbs. Those studs must have cut threads instead of rolled. I hope your rod bolts are of better quality.
 
Last edited:
Still wrong

smithhb said:
Aden,

I posted a comment on the Blog... I was installing my oil pump in the accessory case and was torquing the bolts to 204 in/lbs as specified in the ECI Hardware Manual when one broke! I immediately called Jesse at AERO who then had me call JB at ECI. According to ECI, the 204 in/lbs torque in the Hardware Manual is wrong!!! It should be 150 in/lbs as specified in the Lycoming Overhaul Manual.

ECI will be correcting the error on the Hardware Manual ASAP but also mentioned a couple of other errors as well. I have the other errors noted in my Hardware Manual but it is in my shop. Just make sure that you compare all torque specifications in the ECI Hardware Manual with the Lycoming Overhaul Manual and where they differ, go with the Lycoming value.
Click to expand...


Interestingly enough... it's not yet corrected.

http://www.eci2fly.com/exp/hardwaremanualM300.pdf

They are still at a 5-9-08 revision.... I would have expected a quicker response to a major error...:(
 
Well, they are all at the Big Show right now and I'm sure they have bigger fish to fry. Just follow the Lycoming Overhaul Manual and all should be fine.

My engine is complete (except for the AFP install) and ready to hang.
080725a.JPG
 
ECI engine

Yes all of the alum parts are alodined. They are yellowish in color. The kits cost about 14K standard. Edge broke??? The parts are all PMA certified but you don't get any papers on them.
 
"Edge broke"?

Meaning all sharp corners are not sharp on all the parts.
It looks like not so on some of the case parts, and not good pratice with aircraft parts. 14K? you can probably get a factory reman engine for that assembled and tested with papers. I don't see any big savingse there. I got a low hour airworthy engine that is way bigger and better than that for alot less than 14K. I just can't see why 14K, I see a group of major parts that should maybe be 6 or 7 k at the most.
Someone is making some profit there. Especially with no papers.
 
ECi kit

There were no sharp edges on my engine. 14K is a very good deal on these considering you are getting all brand new parts. ECI also throws in a lot of little goodies that most other kits will not give you unless you get the wallet out. I have put together a few engines and this is the cheapest one yet. If you know of a better engine source, please post a new post so that all others reading this post can save now on a bigger and better engine. If you are curious to see what kind of quality is in these kit, feel free to come out to Port Angeles and I will be more than happy to show you around.

On the certified note: Having papers does not do you any good. You are putting a certified engine on a experimental airplane. Thus, making the engine experimental. The reason for this is because of vibration testing. Most of the experimentals have not gone through the vibration testing to the airframe to engine combo. That is why you see STC's on some airplanes that have engine upgrades that only specify a certain engine model. Aren't all 0-320's and 0-360 basically the same. Not according to the FAA. So getting some papers with your engine does not really do you any good unless you plan on selling it to someone that has a certified airplane that is approved for that engine model. Besides, I got all the papers I need. They still come with all of the batch/lot numbers so you can keep track of the production in case there is a AD or SB.
 
Cylinders going together!!!!

On Sunday my will come up and we will put the cylinders together. Now most people who get engines don't have to put the cylinders together as they come assembled with all of the components. I will be putting them together by hand from scratch. Stay tuned with lots of pics and descriptions.

Aden
 
Aden,

I admire you for doing the cylinders yourself. When I found out how much the tools cost just to assemble the cylinders I was shocked. I then found out from Jesse at AERO that ECI will now deliver the cylinders complete (and painted!) at no extra charge (or minimal charge) so that is what I did. Their work was beautiful.

Good luck and take lots of photos...
 
Cylinders

I have a bunch of hours into prepping, masking, painting, grinding, and lapping the cylinders. I'm not even close yet either. My Dad and I will most likely spend a good portion of the day getting them together and mounted on the engine. I purchased a lot of the tools from the local auto parts store like the ring compressor and ring expander tools. The spring compressor from US Tools was 60 bucks. There was another for 190. I think this one will work but I guess I will see. My Dad has a tool that you use on the drill press to hold the valves in place when you compress the springs to install the keepers. We'll have to see if this can all be done without gouging the valve stems. I usually have gotten my cylinders done also but I wanted to see for myself what it takes to put them together. My Dad has done them with shop tools and a special compressor made for the drill press. It wasn't pretty but it worked. His engine is still flying around after 15 years!
 
New Titan Kit, finished yet?

Hello Aden:

Haven't seen any posts recently on your engine build, just curious as to how you made out.


Cheers, Terry
 
Engine KIt

Engine is built except for the Fuel injection, it's mostly completed. Go to
http://www.ecititankit.blogspot.com. That should take you to my blog with completed pics. It turned out real nice and the exhaust is mounted as well. I plan to start up my RV-6 kit now that winter has set in here in Washington State. When I get the Horz stab jig set up, I will start posting again. Good to see people are still wathcin':eek:

Thanks, Aden
 
Last edited:
Great I will check your blog out!!!

I am starting my Titan Kit just after the 1st of the year!!!! I bought a Titan Kit out of Ca after reading an article on a group that does the O-ring groveing on the cases. I had them do some enhancements like porting the engine and doing the O-ring cut. I have a buddy who is an A&P and wew will be doin gthis one together. I have a one mag one Light speed settup with a CS prop through vans. I also decided to go with the eagle fuel injection. I will be interesting in seeing how things all come together. Hey I am going to post this elsewhere but, does anyone have a good source for HIGH TEMP PAINT???
Dave
RV6
 
NAPA Auto

I bought all my engine assembly chemicals (aviation permatex, assembly lube, paint, pliobond, STP, etc) from NAPA auto.

Steve
 
Oil pump torque value

Replying to an older post but in case anybody reads this in the future. I called ECI this morning about the apparent discrepancy between the oil pump torque values, 204 inch lbs vs 150 inch lbs. The 204 inch lbs value is correct. The original Lycoming overhaul manual has 150 inch lbs but they modified this with Service Bulletin 524. In this bulletin it says to tighten the nut to 17 FT lbs (204 inch lbs). Yeah Yeah, I know a whopping difference between 17 FT lbs and 12.5 FT lbs.

Anyway, if anyone cares.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top