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quick disconnect for co-pilot stick question

Desert Rat

Well Known Member
Hey all- Gonna go with the button spring clip for a quick disconnect on the co-pilot stick.

Looks to me like positioning the hole at 12:00 gives the most access thru the stick boot cutout to push the button when you want to remove the stick, but the Vans service letter has you drill the hole for a bolt at 3:00-9:00, so presumably they like that positioning better, for whatever reason.

For those of you who've gone this route, how did you clock the hole for easiest access to get your finger on the button? If you did 3:00 - 9:00 did you regret it, or is it eezee peezee?

FYI- not planning a push to talk or any of that other claptrap on the co-pitot stick, so this is strictly a question of ease of removal.
 
Hey all- Gonna go with the button spring clip for a quick disconnect on the co-pilot stick.

What is this button spring clip you speak of?
I've envisioned something like that but never seen a part or kit or anything. Link?
 
What is this button spring clip you speak of?
I've envisioned something like that but never seen a part or kit or anything. Link?

People sometimes call them pit pins. I think they are formally called ball-lock pins.
 
Hey all- Gonna go with the button spring clip for a quick disconnect on the co-pilot stick.

Looks to me like positioning the hole at 12:00 gives the most access thru the stick boot cutout to push the button when you want to remove the stick, but the Vans service letter has you drill the hole for a bolt at 3:00-9:00, so presumably they like that positioning better, for whatever reason.

For those of you who've gone this route, how did you clock the hole for easiest access to get your finger on the button? If you did 3:00 - 9:00 did you regret it, or is it eezee peezee?

FYI- not planning a push to talk or any of that other claptrap on the co-pitot stick, so this is strictly a question of ease of removal.

The 3:00--9:00 position is stronger. Guidelines for control system strength specify design requirements for pilot stick force in pitch and roll. The pitch force is much bigger. If the hole was at 12:00, you would be putting a stress concentration hole in the location of highest stress due to bending in the stick.

Now practically speaking, this will almost never be a problem. But if there is a control jam of some sort that motivates a pilot to pull hard on the stick, you really don't want it to break.
 
Snap button

What is this button spring clip you speak of?
I've envisioned something like that but never seen a part or kit or anything. Link?

This is what some have been using:

https://www.valcocleve.com/c-type-c-series/

I used part number C-131 for my rear seat stick attachment. I wouldn't suggest this type of connection for the primary stick, but I'm OK with the function for co-pilot.
 
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I use a quick release pin that goes all the way through. It is at 6:00 so you pull the pin towards you to release it. For a push button I would think 12:00 would be easiest for removal. I would be concerned with 3:00 and 9:00 (and 6:00) possable letting the button press against your passenger's leg and re-leasing.
It's not likely... but if I can invision it, it can happen. So many times I have done my control check and my wife's i-pad or coffee cup, or whatever is hitting the stick.
 
I use a button pin at the 6:00 position and love it. I cannot believe that a pull in any direction could break the stick. The button pins do nothing more than hold the stick in the receiver? Stole the idea and never looked back. :)

McMaster-Carr

# 94282A250 Spring Steel Button Pins for Telescoping Tubing, Single-Button Dog-Leg, for 1/2" to 3/4" Tubing ID, packs of 10
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5.10
 
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What is this button spring clip you speak of?
I've envisioned something like that but never seen a part or kit or anything. Link?

There is no kit. Vans used to be cool with literally just stuffing the co-pilot stick in the socket with nothing holding it their other than happy thoughts. Eventually, somebody pulled up instead of laterally and the stick came out in their hand while they were landing.

Vans came out with service letter SB-07-2-6 that calls for you to drill a hole all the way through the assy at 3:00-9:00 orientation and stick an AN3 bolt in there.

Seems like overkill and makes it inconvenient to remove the co-pilot stick.

I'm not really worried about making the stick weaker; I found some buttons like the links others have posted in their replies above that are only 4mm, which is basically the same diameter as a #8 screw. Basically just want to know which clocking is most convenient for getting my fingers down in the cutout to push the button if I want to take the stick out.
 
There is no kit. Vans used to be cool with literally just stuffing the co-pilot stick in the socket with nothing holding it their other than happy thoughts. Eventually, somebody pulled up instead of laterally and the stick came out in their hand while they were landing.

Vans came out with service letter SB-07-2-6 that calls for you to drill a hole all the way through the assy at 3:00-9:00 orientation and stick an AN3 bolt in there.

Seems like overkill and makes it inconvenient to remove the co-pilot stick.

I'm not really worried about making the stick weaker; I found some buttons like the links others have posted in their replies above that are only 4mm, which is basically the same diameter as a #8 screw. Basically just want to know which clocking is most convenient for getting my fingers down in the cutout to push the button if I want to take the stick out.

At least from 1994 when I built my first -6, the plans called for a AN3 bolt through the stick.
 
At least from 1994 when I built my first -6, the plans called for a AN3 bolt through the stick.

I use an AN3 at 3-9 position. Only takes a minute to install/remove but you need to have two wrenches handy. 3-9 position provides more clearance of the bolt head and nut to surrounding structure at full stick stirs.
 
There is no kit. Vans used to be cool with literally just stuffing the co-pilot stick in the socket with nothing holding it their other than happy thoughts. Eventually, somebody pulled up instead of laterally and the stick came out in their hand while they were landing.

Vans came out with service letter SB-07-2-6 that calls for you to drill a hole all the way through the assy at 3:00-9:00 orientation and stick an AN3 bolt in there.

Seems like overkill and makes it inconvenient to remove the co-pilot stick.

I'm not really worried about making the stick weaker; I found some buttons like the links others have posted in their replies above that are only 4mm, which is basically the same diameter as a #8 screw. Basically just want to know which clocking is most convenient for getting my fingers down in the cutout to push the button if I want to take the stick out.

I forget the actual value, but I think it is 150 lbs of stick pull that the whole system must be designed to withstand. Anyway, that is why Van's says to drill at 3:00--9:00. Up to you to decide if you want to deviate.


There was a Rocket some time ago that had a stick break, I seem to recall. It was, I believe, an aluminum tube rather than a steel tube. You wouldn't imagine being able to bend/break a 1" aluminum tube either, but someone did. I don't know if it had a hole in it, but I am guessing it did.
 
Fair enough, Thanks for the input.

For what it's worth, enough people have said they have no problem with the 3:00-9:00 position that's likely how I'll go. I'm all about not reinventing the wheel if theres no good reason, especially if somebody has already done the math.

Plus that way if I don't like the button solution its not a problem to upsize the hole and punch it all the way thru in compliance with vans SB.

I'm not a Dr. but when possible I tend to follow the edict to "first do no harm" i.e. don't mod yourself into a box you can't get out of if you don't like the result.
 
Quick pin?

I have an an3 I’m going to change over to a quick release solution for my right stick. Based on the spring clips being acceptable, and that it already has a through hole, I was going to use a quick pin with a sprung ball end, ring pull on the other end. I can’t see a downside. Now I just need a connector solution for the PTT wires.
 
I have an an3 I’m going to change over to a quick release solution for my right stick. Based on the spring clips being acceptable, and that it already has a through hole, I was going to use a quick pin with a sprung ball end, ring pull on the other end. I can’t see a downside. Now I just need a connector solution for the PTT wires.

I have a ball-lock pin on my backseat stick. Very fast and simple. I have a Molex plug/socket for the PTT. Certainly other types of connectors would be fine too. One nice thing about Molex is it is 'scalable'. That is, whether you have just a PTT (2 wires) or a PTT+ autopilot disconnect + coolie hat trim + gun trigger + ..., just pick the appropriate Molex plug for the number of pins you need.
 
I also put a ball lock pin in my rear stick in the 3-9 position. I put the pin on a lanyard so I can't drop it. Quick and easy to remove or install.
 
I'm thinking of a spring / button internal to the stick, where you push the button or buttons (180 degrees) on the outside of the stick to release. Does that exist? I found one post with a link (Bruce Hill) but it doesn't have any detail about the spring / button, https://www.overthehills.com/RV-9A-Project/Wiring/Flaps-and-Trim/

I bought the quick disconnect buttons from McMaster-Carr.
I bought a 5 pack of 92988A650.
I put the hole at the 12 o'clock position and it is easy to reach down under the seat and click it with your thumb to disconnect. It is quite secure and stays in place very well.
 
Anybody use something like this in the appropriate size? Maybe placed at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. This picture is from Tractor Supply.
Square Lock Pin.jpeg
 
This is what some have been using:

https://www.valcocleve.com/c-type-c-series/

I used part number C-131 for my rear seat stick attachment. I wouldn't suggest this type of connection for the primary stick, but I'm OK with the function for co-pilot.

I used the same part as Jim, purchased direct from Valco. They made me buy 4 so I have some leftover if anyone wants one.

I drilled the hole for the button at 6:00 because, well no good reason, it seemed like I’d have no trouble activating it with my thumb at that position.
 
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