I don't have too much to add to what's already been posted. I've had very good success with using the 3M tape. After drilling and countersinking using a jig made from an inverted piece of scrap leading edge, my method was to roughen-up all contact surfaces, apply the tape, 100% cleco and allow to set overnight with weights applied (I use several 25lb lead shot bags). I then removed the clecos, inserted all the rivets, then back-riveted using a mushroom head on a 2'X4' piece of 1/4" cold-rolled steel set on my workbench that I obtained from Online Metals. Working from the center toward each end, using two finger of my free had to apply pressure on either side of the rivet, I hit each rivet lightly and squarely to set the rivet, then at an angle perpendicular to the leading edge to form a flush shop head on the lower side. I've always obtained straight leading edges with manufactured heads on the upper side and nice flush shop heads on the lower side. Good luck and happy building!