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Separate master and alternator switches?

rockitdoc

Well Known Member
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I am accustomed to two switches, or a split switch like the cessnas have, but now I m wondering why. I would prefer one switch to turn on both battery and alternator power for simplicity.
 
Last edited:
I just used a pull breaker for the alternator field. This also supports an OV crowbar design.
Always stays "in" in normal operations and such.
 
Most voltage regulators or OV sensors latch off if tripped. If you think it's a nuisance trip then you need to be able to cycle the field power to get the alternator back online. Either field switch or pullable breaker will work. You don't want to cycle the master.
 
RockitDoc,

You can use a double-pole double-throw (DPDT) switch to handle switching the master solenoid on one pole and the alternator field with the other.


As a side note, the Perihelion Over Voltage device does not use the "Crowbar" technique. It opens or closes a relay upon an over-voltage event. (Then you decide what to do with those relay contacts.)

The Crowbar technique actually causes a short circuit (hence "crowbar") across the regulator circuit breaker and pops the breaker, upon detecting over-voltage. I know it sounds a little scary but is a clever, and perfectly acceptable, solution to the problem of shutting-down an errant regulator.

Also, GYoung makes a good point. Some regulators require their power to be cycled to reset and you would not want to turn-off the master in flight to reset the alternator (as would happen if you used a single switch).

The short answer is: use a pull-able 5 amp circuit-breaker (like Potter Brumfield W23 series) and the DPDT switch like I described in the first paragraph and everything will be good. This configuration accomplishes several things:

1. Allows you to kill/reset the alternator by pulling the breaker
2. Control the alternator field and master solenoid with a single switch
3. Allows for the use of a Crowbar Over Voltage module, if desired

BTW, this is a very common setup
 
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