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Landing Light Cutout Tool

B

Bob Ross

Member
Can anyone tell me what type of tool they used to cut the cutout in the right outer wing skin for the landing light?

Regards, Bob
 
Pick up a body saw. You will find 101 uses for the thing.

Cut close to your line and file it the rest of the way.
 
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I used right and left tin snips just take your time,start aways from the edge and slowly work toward it.you can always file it a little if you need to clean up the edge,it is scary to think about carving a big hole in something you have tried not to damage up to this point!
 
Has anyone tried a Multi-Master? I have a set but have only used it in my woodworking activites so far. [I am contemplating building an RV-12 if I can resist buying Mr. Geiger's beauty!!].
 
Landing Light Cutout Tool(s)

I used a step drill to make a 3/4" diameter hole in each corner about 1/4" away from the final cutout line. Then used aviation snips to cut between the 3/4" holes, again about 1/4" away from the final cutout line. Finally used a 2" diameter drum sander in a drill motor to remove the rest. The drum sander worked especially well in the large corner radii and removed the material faster than I expected. Was pleased with the results and would do it this way again.
 
My cutout method

Drill a pilot hole, enlarge it with a step drill to a hole size that allows an Adel nilbbler ( http://www.averytools.com/pc-248-41-adel-hand-nibbling--tool.aspx

This nibbler give you real control of the material to be removed. Sneak up to your cut line with a combination of files and 3M Scotchbrite wheels http://www.averytools.com/pc-351-43-scotch-brite-cutting---polishing--wheel--kit.aspx I used the 936 mandrel with a 3719 wheel.

Whizz wheels or cutting wheels can get away from you IMHO.
 
I second the nibbler

I'm getting ready to cut out the spar holes in the side skin and I wasn't comfortable with snips. It's probably something I'm doing wrong, but I find snips to be pretty hostile to the edges of the material. I did a side-by-side comparison between snips and a nibbler I picked up at Harbor Freight on a piece of scrap and found the nibbler to be much more controllable. It does tend to leave "tracks" on the edge of the skin, though, from being slid along while cutting/nibbling. I'm going to practice with it a bit more before attacking the side skins with it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/compact-hand-nibbler-65895.html

Caummisar said:
Drill a pilot hole, enlarge it with a step drill to a hole size that allows an Adel nilbbler ( http://www.averytools.com/pc-248-41-adel-hand-nibbling--tool.aspx

This nibbler give you real control of the material to be removed. Sneak up to your cut line with a combination of files and 3M Scotchbrite wheels http://www.averytools.com/pc-351-43-scotch-brite-cutting---polishing--wheel--kit.aspx I used the 936 mandrel with a 3719 wheel.

Whizz wheels or cutting wheels can get away from you IMHO.
Click to expand...
 
Drilled large diameter holes (to achieve a gentle radius) in the corners, then cutoff wheel, followed by filing.
 
I used a Dremel tool

With a 1 inch or so dia cutoff wheel. With the small wheel you can make the corners. I took it slow. Didn't want to mess this part up. Filed down afterwards. Turned out good.

Fret factor...9/10
Ease to do...3/10

Jim
 
Nibbler Tracks

Cover the area with 1-2 layers of painter's tape.
That should eliminate nibbler tracks and allow a nice high contrast surface for your sharpie layout lines.
 
I did my cutouts on the leading edge for the Duckworks kit using this inexpensive air body saw from Harbor Freight.

Just protect the metal surface from the guard on the saw. It will really lay down a good scratch. :mad:

Finish off the edges with a metal file, then hit the edge with a scotchbrite deburring wheel.

The air saw also works great for cutting aluminum stock that is too long to fit in the band saw. I've used it on a number of other things in the build.
 
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