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Pitfalls of exhaust installation

LettersFromFlyoverCountry

LettersFromFlyoverCountry

Well Known Member
socket.jpg


Here's a problem I've encountered when installing the very excellent Vetterman system on my RV-7A. I can't get to the inside bolts on cylinders 3 and 4 to tighten them, let alone torque them properly.

There must be a secret here.

Watch my video here for a further explanation.
 
You should be able to find a narrow socket at Home Depot or Lowes that will work. My standard sockets did not fit either.
 
See if you can borrow a 1/4" drive Snap on swivel socket.

18383.GIF


These really fit into tight locations.
 
What Mike said. But no need to go with Snap-On, as your local Sears has them. Might as well buy one, as you'll need to periodically check the exhaust nuts. About $8 as I recall.

Tony
 
Exhaust Nuts

A cheap and easy way: A craftsman 3/8" drive deep socket and a belt sander, grind down the outside till it will go on the exhaust nut. It will be pretty thin but still strong enough to handle the torque requirements of this job. Reserve your modified socket for this job only. Made mine long ago and have used it countless times.

Don B.
Flyin a Mooney but really want a 6 or 7.
 
The Sears 1/4" drive flex sockets worked for me. You might as well buy the set, 8 sockets 3/16-9/16 $50.00 list.
 
Snap-On

You'll never reget buying the Snap-On swivel sockets. I check the torque on the exhaust nuts studs at every oil change and it's a 5 minute job with the Snap-On's.
 
I agree with Mike, too. I have both Snap-On and Craftsmen. The Snap-Ons are worth it in this instance.
If you'll notice, on the Sears flex sockets, the faces inside the socket do not go clear down to the bottom of the socket. I have had that cause a problem in some cases where the nut gets down there and just spins with out tightening or loosening; however, I swear by Craftsmen tools and only have some particular ones from Snap-On and Matco.
For this application, the SNAP-ON flex sockets seem to be the best alternative.
 
I have more than a few good quality sockets cut to smaller OD's on the lathe, mostly 1/4 and 3/8 drive. Some were also cut to special lengths. When you need a tool, make a tool.
 
Snap-on>Sears for those sockets... but at well over double the price. I put a normal 1/4 drive sears socket on a lathe and turned it down until it fit.....
 
Bob Collins said:
I will be keeping track of how much it's going to cost me to tighten two freakin' bolts here, fellas!:)
Click to expand...

Gonna cost me too Bob - this thread reminds me that the last time I had to tighten exhaust nuts, I was sharing a hangar with my A&P/IA friend....and I used his sockets. One of these days, I guess I'm gonna have to buy one for myself! :rolleyes:
 
Bob

Stop by the hanger, I used a 10 inch socket extension and it worked fine on my vetterman. you can borrow it.

Vince
 
Bob Collins said:
I will be keeping track of how much it's going to cost me to tighten two freakin' bolts here, fellas!:)
Click to expand...

Take a 1/4-20 screw, drop it through the socket, and nut it tight. Chuck it in a drill, spin it up, and hold it to your grinder.

In a few minutes work you have a nice thin wall socket.

Cheap, and nearly easier to do than to describe. ;)

Re-chroming the socket is optional. :D
 
the cheap Chinese sockets are thinner and will fit tight places.

There is also someting called a 'wobble' extension. Its essentially a normal 1/4 or 3/8 extension with the male end ground (ouch) down to allow the socket to wobble as it rotates.

These will work when a universal won't fit in the close places.

You can also make one with a dremel and a disk and a 4 inch socket extension.
 
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Thank you sir!

Bob Collins said:
Here's a problem I've encountered when installing the very excellent Vetterman system on my RV-7A. I can't get to the inside bolts on cylinders 3 and 4 to tighten them, let alone torque them properly.

There must be a secret here.

Watch my video here for a further explanation.
Click to expand...

Bob,
First, the problem is that you don't have the correct tools. Second, they make special "jet" nuts with an undersized hex for tight places like you have there. I think you can avoid buying swivel sockets. A standard 1/2" shallow [or deep if needed] socket, in 1/4" drive should work. The real trick is to buy yourself a "wobble" 1/4" drive extension, about 6" long. A wobble extension allows you to pivot the extension at the socket by 15 degrees in any direction. The best part is that the extension will work with all the sockets in your 1/4" drive set. ;) The "wobble" extension differs at the male end that goes into the socket. The square male end is actually diamond shaped. This is what allows it to pivot. For a photo see:

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10...Name=Hand+Tools&keyword=1/4"+wobble+extension

http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/0...n=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0



Next, they make "jet" exhaust nuts which have an undersized hex [7/16" hex rather than 1/2" hex for a 5/16" stud]. As a "thank you" for your efforts producing the "RV HOTLINE", I would like to send you a set of these "jet" nuts for your exhaust system, free of charge. Just send me a private message or an email with a mailing address and I will be happy to send you a complete set. Jet nuts are MS21042 and you can see what they look like here:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/MS21042.php

Charlie Kuss
PS We N.Y. Yankee fans know about tools and stuff! :p
 
I almost forgot this important tip

Bob,
One more thing. To ease future maintenance, apply NeverSeize [a brand name] or some other form of anti seize paste to the exhaust studs before you install the nuts. Anti seize paste will ensure that those nuts come off without breaking the stud, next time you want to remove the exhaust.
This product is available at any automotive parts store. My local parts supplier carries Permatex Anti-Seize. It comes in a silver colored plastic jar. See

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...ubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm

Charlie Kuss
 
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Bob Collins said:
...here's the latest episode of The Bob Show.
Click to expand...
Bob, I agree that your videos are a hoot.

If you were in southern New Mexico I would enjoy giving you a very motivational flight through a many million year old sponge and algae reef, then among magmatic intrusions then down a great rift valley that looks like the surface of the moon. We have amazing machines.

Hang in there!
 
EXHAUST NUTS

HI,
CHARLIES IDEA IS GOOD, EXCEPT THE THREADS ON THE LYCOMING EXHAUST STUDS ARE COURSE THREADS, NOT FINE THREADS. 5/16-18 VS 5/16-24. AND I'M NOT SEEING COURSE THREAD "JET NUTS" AT ACS.
OR AM I MISSING SOMETHING?:confused:
 
BUSTED!!!

n721dp said:
HI,
CHARLIES IDEA IS GOOD, EXCEPT THE THREADS ON THE LYCOMING EXHAUST STUDS ARE COURSE THREADS, NOT FINE THREADS. 5/16-18 VS 5/16-24. AND I'M NOT SEEING COURSE THREAD "JET NUTS" AT ACS.
OR AM I MISSING SOMETHING?:confused:
Click to expand...

Dave,
You are absolutely correct. Thanks for pointing out my error. :eek: I was rushing that reply and did not do "due diligence" on that one. When I get some time, I will research to see if a "jet" style nut is available in a 5/16" 18 tpi size through either aircraft or automotive suppliers.
I know that this style of exhaust nut is used in both European [BMW] and Asian [Nissan} engines. Unfortunately, those are metric [8mm], not US.
Charlie Kuss
PS I replied to your post about 9pm last night, but it appears my earlier reply was lost in the ether. I have noticed that often when switching betweein pages of various threads, that I have to cancel and repeat the request. Is this just me? Or have others noticed this? It seems to be happening to me all this week on this site.
 
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