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Flap hinge pin removal?

claycookiemonster

Well Known Member
The plans suggest a hole in the aileron hinge for flap pin removal outboard. This requires aileron removal. Right now, in the initial wing installation and aileron/flap alignment, I find I can remove the flap pin inboard between the inboard portion of the lower flap surface and the lower wing surface. Will that manner of pin removal remain? If so, I'd like to put a 90 degree bend in the pin there so it's easier to grab.
 
I recommend doing the hole in the aileron bracket. The pin can be removed by disconnecting the aileron push rod and letting it hang down. No need to remove the aileron itself.

Use a self tapping screw in the hole after the pin is install as a locking device on the outboard side. Use a piece of safety wire through a 1/16” hole through the most inboard hinge eye as the locking device for the inboard side.

Carl
 
Another Way to Go

An alternative method would be to split the pin in the middle and make it two pieces going from the middle inboard and outboard. That way, the flaps can be removed without messing with the ailerons at all.

I didn't build this, but this is the way the builder of my airplane chose to go and it works quite well.

IMG_0829-L.jpg
 
Center removal

This works very well. Pins are pulle from the center.
I have since cut the keepers down to one eyelet each.

20150126_115330.jpg
 
We’ve done the pins in the middle on all three of our RV’s - love it!! :)

(Sorry Carl)
 
With the pins split in the middle the security is no more than bending an eye in the end of both pins and safety wire the two eyes together. Couldn't be easier than that.
Oh ya remember to clean and lube the pins with out any paint. As they could be a pain to get out after 500 hours.

My three cents worth Art
 
Another vote for pins in the middle. All of my builds & re-built RVs were done this way. I bend the hinge pin so they lay flat to the bottom skin & secured with a tab & screw. Real easy to remove when needed.
 
Full length flap hinge pin

I tried installing and removing a full length pin before going with the split. It wasn't easy with the wing on a cradle and someone holding the flap. No way I could do it solo. I can R&R the flaps easy with the split pins.
They are bent to match the shape of the flap brace so they lay flat. A short piece of shrink wrap keeps them from wearing or scratching. #6 nutplate on the brace and screw to hold it.
 
I anchored the legs of the hinge pins with safety wire. I don’t have a picture of it so I shamelessly stole Bill’s picture and edited it.

I brought the legs of the pins a little higher (shown in blue), drilled a small hole at the red dot, and safety wired the two legs together (shown in green). I ran the safety wire through the small hole and out the open of the lightening hole. Simple.
 

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+1 for split flap pins

+1 for split pins in the middle. If I remember correctly I think the instructions mentioned this as an alternative to having the single pin. Remove one hinge eye, secure the pins, and you're good to go. KISS.
 
+2 for the middle setup exactly like in Larry's picture.

Trying to get a full length pin in... what a be-otch that would be.
 
I did the split in the middle, bent 1" of the end of each hinge pin up 90° and slid a piece of .25" poly tubing (.170"I.D.) over the two bent ends. Only had to remove 1 hinge eye.

No fuss/muss...
 
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I had the center cut out for the flap hinge. The friction of the full length is extreme and you may have a difficult time inserting the piano wire after you remove it. 1/2 length is half the friction and this method is approved by Vans
 
I had the center cut out for the flap hinge. The friction of the full length is extreme and you may have a difficult time inserting the piano wire after you remove it. 1/2 length is half the friction and this method is approved by Vans

I don’t know guys. The pin through the aileron bracket, for me at least, is a boat load easier that cramming my hands between the flap top and the wing skin while trying to not over stress the flap hinge. Using lock wire to hold the two pins together makes it even more painful.

A drop of LPS-2 on the pin and it slides right in. A self tapping screw on the outboard side of the aileron bracket and a piece of safety wire through a 1/16” hole on the most inboard hinge eye (that never gets removed) and you have the pin locked at both ends.

But - build it the way you want. At any rate the flap goes on and off just a few times (hopefully) in the life of the plane.

Carl
 
Just curious. What's the motivation to be able to readily remove the flaps? I've being flying my RV-7A for 17 years and haven't even thought about removing the flaps.
 
I don’t know guys. The pin through the aileron bracket, for me at least, is a boat load easier that cramming my hands between the flap top and the wing skin while trying to not over stress the flap hinge. Using lock wire to hold the two pins together makes it even more painful.

A drop of LPS-2 on the pin and it slides right in. A self tapping screw on the outboard side of the aileron bracket and a piece of safety wire through a 1/16” hole on the most inboard hinge eye (that never gets removed) and you have the pin locked at both ends.

But - build it the way you want. At any rate the flap goes on and off just a few times (hopefully) in the life of the plane.

Carl

I am glad it worked for you because the full length hinge didn't work for me even when the whole contraption was on the build table. People can choose any solution they want.
 
Either way

Here you go, straight from Vans, either way is correct.
 

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